Backplate hole not aligned with harness - Bad design or bad user?

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It's going cut through the webbing faster.
No it won’t, not if you do it my way.
When I deal with one slot to run a shoulder strap I put a keeper on the backside and run the tail and the main strap through the same slot, then it can be stitched or use another wider keeper to hold the main strap and the tail together, or not, it doesn’t matter.
Like this:
image.jpg
 
I asked why? It's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Webbing doesn't need to be bolted down... but than I try to buy quality gear instead of looking for the cheapest, crapiest gear on alibaba and make it work somehow.
 
The SP method, they did it for the limp webbing on the S Tek using a glide with an extra pass but it can also work with a regular webbing and standard tri-glides
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thereis more than one way to skin a backplate :wink:
 
I asked why? It's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Webbing doesn't need to be bolted down... but than I try to buy quality gear instead of looking for the cheapest, crapiest gear on alibaba and make it work somehow.
Well the OP DID buy a cheap plate and instead of returning it he just want’s to make it work. We’re trying to be constructive and help him do that.
You saying you don’t buy cheap crap off Alibaba
and only buy top quality gear, good for you.
It isn’t helping here and just comes off as snipe.
 
No it won’t, not if you do it my way.
When I deal with one slot to run a shoulder strap I put a keeper on the backside and run the tail and the main strap through the same slot, then it can be stitched or use another wider keeper to hold the main strap and the tail together, or not, it doesn’t matter.
Like this:
View attachment 793975

stand up with double 130s and a stage and watch that triglide bend and then after a few times pull through.

There is a reason for the 1 continuous piece of webbing requirements.
 
and only buy top quality gear, good for you.
It isn’t helping here and just comes off as snipe.
I buy cheap stuff too but is does require some research.
I think it's good advice not to buy random cheap stuff and it's good to send it back so the seller get's feedback and hopefully makes better stuff.
 
So far we have Hollis, HOG, and now DGX plates having this “problem”. Not just random no name plates, although they might all use the same stamping template in the same factory. I guess people must just be freaking out now.
 
So far we have Hollis, HOG, and now DGX plates having this “problem”. Not just random no name plates, although they might all use the same stamping template in the same factory. I guess people must just be freaking out now.
The reason those plates are like that is because the original design had the shoulder straps crossing in the back. If you run the webbing naturally where it wants to go, as it leaves the plate you will see that each strap wants to go in and the natural way for them to go is to cross.
But the DIR guys didn’t like them crossed so they ran them straight, but they never changed the slot placement to allow for that. Then everyone else just copied the same design with the same slot placement thinking this was how it was supposed to be done. None of them looked at the wadding up of the webbing from trying to be forced to bend a way that it doesn’t like. If you look at any of hose plates with how the webbing comes out of the top slot it is tight as hell on one corner of the webbing and on the other nothing.
In order for them to be right for running the webbing straight, the two 45 degree slots need to be a lot closer in towards the middle.
 
So far we have Hollis, HOG, and now DGX plates having this “problem”.
Add Mares to the list. I just replaced the webbing and burned a hole in the proper place.
 

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