G250 cracking pressure

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Lot's of great tips...thanks!
I should have time to look at them tomorrow. I can take them to my LDS (to hook to a tank) too. I'm 85% sure that the leaking starts the moment it's pressurized.
I looked for the service guide on frigkick but no luck. I'm probably being too careful with the equipment while taking it apart, but I'd feel better with G250 specific directions.
THANK YOU ALL! I'll report back tomorrow after I have time to check everything.
BTW-my tanks/gear (replaced 1 reg already) were stolen not too long ago...everything down to my logbook! I'm buying used gear as I'm able.
 
Close enough...thanks!
When SP says "adjust cracking pressure" are they referring to the knob (tried that; it flows really badly when dialed out) or an adjustment behind the knob? I h/n looked closely yet but will have time tomorrow. According to the links above it's either an adjustment, spring or 1st stage problem. My octo d/n "leak" but is a lot newer.
How do you remove the "ring" to temove the diaphram? The directions simply state: "Remove ring..." I'm probably being too cautious.
I am so very grateful to everyone for their help!!
 
Last edited:
Is your G250 a G250HP , G250V, or an older G250? If you're not sure, just post a picture. I would tend to doubt there's an IP problem with the first stage, but you do need to have it checked. The dive shop will have an IP gauge.
 
Remove the hose and try screwing in the orifice a 1/4 turn........(use channel locks and a rag to remove hose and medium size flathead screwdriver for orifice)

Again, there's not much else you can do yourself without an IP gauge and a tank.
 
It's an older G250...not HP, V, Graphite etc. Just a plain 'ole (metal barrel) G250.
I'm certainly planning on getting all of the tools needed...IP Gauge incl.
I'm trying a few things now...
Thanks
 
I have an actual Scubapro tool (old metal one...$20 off of eBay) & it got the hose off almost like it was made for it! Lol Turned the adjustment ~1/4 turn. Now I need to check it.
I removed the diaphram earlier & everything looked ok. The lever moved smoothly & it's clean.
I'll take it to my LDS tomorrow & check it. I'll post results asap.
Thanks!
 
Because yours is an older one, you likely have a metal orifice. That's good, but it does mean that you should depress the purge whenever you adjust the orifice. This removes it from the soft seat while you're turning it. The metal orifices have a nice sharp edge which helps in tuning the cracking pressure precisely, but it also can cut into the seat.

1/4 turn is quite a bit; if that doesn't stop the leak, it's time for a new seat. Replacing the spring may help too. I have seen lots of old springs that don't have consistent elasticity and that makes it pretty much impossible to tune.
 
I wish someone had told me to press the purge before I turned the adjustment!!
Oh well...I don't have a time machine so I'm kind of stuck with any damage that I did! :)
The purge feels...stiffer (??) to me when I press it now.
Thanks everyone! I'll check the reg later today at my LDS. I don't own a tank (stolen w/ all my other gear but not yet replaced) anymore.
 

Back
Top Bottom