Net benefits and true cost of owning a compressor.

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Pardon my ignorance, and I promise to seek training if available, but just so I get the general idea ahead of the time... if hypothetically, I were to spring for something like RIX SA-6, what would I need to attach to it to have a complete working setup, for starters just for simple (but O2-clean-tank-compatible) air fills? It sounds like I need an additional filtering system.
 
Yup ... additional filtration is required to get Oxygen Compatible Air.
 
Yup ... additional filtration is required to get Oxygen Compatible Air.

Tell me more. I presume different compressors emit air of different purity, and a matching filter system of appropriate efficiency is needed. How do you pick one? Are those things rated on some scale? Thanks.
 
I think there is a formulae you can use which basically boils down to "how far do you need to drive to get a fill, and how much do you value your time"?

When I was young we used to have to carry our tanks on a ferry to a neighouring island get a fill - it was about 4 hours each way all told (we had to clear customs and immigration both ways). So we got a compressor. Now that it is a 25 minute drive for me I wouldn't dream of it.

Also, remember that a compressor is not a blissful oblivion of ever full tanks. You still need to service it and replace filters etc. And in the way of these things, it will normally pick the least convenient moment possible to break down.
 
Tell me more. I presume different compressors emit air of different purity, and a matching filter system of appropriate efficiency is needed. How do you pick one? Are those things rated on some scale? Thanks.
Most compressor companies make their machines to generate Grade E air out of the box. To make Oxygen clean air, you need to run that Grade E through a hyper filter. Without hyerfiltration, you could possibly cause damage to your tank, valve and/or yourself when you fill with pure O2.
 
I use the RIX SA-6 for very occasional filling, and if you are just talking consumables and maintenance, not purchase price depreciation, I believe it is clearly cheaper than paying for fills, especially as they approach $7-$10 per tank as in some areas.

The oil-less feature of the RIX compressors reduces filtration costs significantly, but even for just standard breathing air you need additional filtration to deal with residual moisture, or you'll have standing water in your tanks. A little hopcalite for CO removal - if you've got a gas motor - and charcoal for final polishing is probably helpful as well.

The shorter style of tower has worked fine for me. I use two, with a moisture-only cartridge followed by a hopcalite-charcoal combo. That may be excessive, but it also lasts a very long time.
 
Most compressor companies make their machines to generate Grade E air out of the box. To make Oxygen clean air, you need to run that Grade E through a hyper filter. .

Actually you don't. And Grade E is a joke. I could get Grade E running off my tire pump.
 
Stick with Bauer compressors at least a 5 CFM any bauer setup will have the correct filter system for mixing nitrox. I have been using Bauer compressors and mixing 32% nitrox for over 40 years. No more hydro or VIP charges if you fill your own tanks and you choose not to get them. I have a Bauer listed for sale on this forum. And yes you will save time and money by filling your own tanks.
 
I ran a rix 6 gas unit for years and no water in the tanks. I have a 3 foot filter (Robbins) on the output. As it is a no oil compressor the filters last forever. I ran my first filter close to 5 years and changed it just because. Never any smell. The filter had CO filtering in it so it was an expensive filter but necessary with the engine powering it. I run a long hose up wind to prevent engine exhaust being put in the tanks.

And as the OP will sooner or later ask. I did not pump O2 with it very often. It is easier to do PP filling when you are a very small operation. . OP keep in mind that compressor cooling is done by air and liquid in the gas being pumped. that means water and oil. the rix is oiless so your only liquid cooling is from the humidity in the air. make sure you have the back pressure regs IMEDIATLY after the final moisture separator set at 2k or more. Also one on the output of the filter set at perhaps 2700 for best results. These smaller details can be argued forever by the masses. I would recommend you find an article about how compressor systems work. I think you can find it on here.

Understanding SCUBA Compressors and Filtration
 
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