Focus torch for macro photo

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aurgolo

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Dear all,
Im experiencing since one year with macro photo, i own a canon G12 with original canon box WP-DC 34 and a Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobe + Dyron DY.UCL67II macro lens

I want to add a small focus torch in order to help the G12 auto-focus system…… what is not clear is:

in order to avoid any direct spot light on the photo i added a small house-made dome to the torch (see attached)

…..maybe is better to paint the dome red or yellow in order not to disturb the small critters and to make the focus light completely invisible in the final photo?

does anybody have any experience?

tks alot!

andrea
 

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If you use red you will still get an effect in the photos, depending on intensity.

Best option is a true focus light to turns off when it detects the flash. White wide/narrow beam Fisheye FIX Neo Mini 1000 SW Focus Light White and red Fisheye FIX Neo Mini 1000 WR Focus & Dive Light.

I find the red good at night or in dark places...


Hello, tks alot for prompt reply.......well i see that the best option is a torch with auto switch-off system....and double white/red light for night dives

Abit expensive but its worth i guess..... I will go for it

Tks again!


Andres
 
Such focus light only works when using a pre flash. (The pre flash is the signal for the torch to switch off)
I have a canon G16 and in full manual mode this camera does not have a pre flash.

So before you spend a lot of money make sure that the G12 does have a pre flash in the mode you like to use.
 
Hello........... well good point you raised.....

with my G12 i use to shot 60% fully manual and 40% TTL (AV priority) according to the different situation im in.....

i guess that in TTL would not be a problem as the strobe fires 2 times.... but in fully manual mode the strobe fires only one and in that case could be a problem

has anybody had any direct experience in shooting fully manual with one of such focus torch?

tks alot to anyone who would like to add something to the topic

Andrea
 
As I always shoot in full manual mode I have the same problem.
I came to the same solution as you and also use a dimmed (video) torch for focusing.

It evenly brightens the area of interest without having a hot spot on the subject.
At night dives I use a red filter on the torch and I really cannot see any difference in the pictures I make.

Off course it is better to buy a camera like the Olympus PEN E-PL7 which has pre flash possibilities in all modes. :wink:
 
well….. clear,

i created a couple of hand-made domes (ping-pong balls) in white and red (see attached) and i will try them asap

they idea of course is to have a smooth light and even the borders without any direct spot on the center

hope they will work as you described, i will let you know

tks alot !!

andrea
 

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Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I use a little LED focus light and don't see any red in the images. Compared to the strobes going off, the amount of light from the focus light is negligible.

Worst case, you can tweak the colour a bit if it is showing...

I don't even recall what brand mine is, but it was about $110 CDN including a little ball and arm for mounting and a spare battery.
 
Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I use a little LED focus light and don't see any red in the images. Compared to the strobes going off, the amount of light from the focus light is negligible.

Worst case, you can tweak the colour a bit if it is showing...

I don't even recall what brand mine is, but it was about $110 CDN including a little ball and arm for mounting and a spare battery.
Agreed. You do not need to light up the whole ocean, just add enough light for the camera to focus. The strobes will overpower it as long as you ensure your focus light does not have a hot spot.

I have a ScubaLamp PV10 "video light" that I use on low power. Since it is a video light it has NO hot spot. It also casts an extremely wide beam - so I have masked it down using some black electrical tape.

On the other hand, my divebuddy's HOG Morph is totally inappropriate for this use. It cranks out way too much light with a very bright central hot spot. I have had to shine my light in her eyes a few times to remind her not to "help point out" my night subjects.
 
Such focus light only works when using a pre flash. (The pre flash is the signal for the torch to switch off)

Not true. The focus light has a sensor and when the flash fires the focus light turns off for 1 second or so. The whole process of TTL is driven (on most underwater camera systems) by light from the flash using optical fibre, and it all happens at the speed of light. As quick as the light from the strobe reaches the subject the Focus torch will be off and have no impact on the TTL sensing, or in manual provide no 'additional' light. The issue with the focus light is it creates uneven lighting, red or white, the aim of the strobe is to provide an even light, so two is better!

Mine only turns off if the relative light of the flash to ambient is 'high', so in bright conditions it says on but the image is not affected, in dim conditions or night it turns off. I use the Focus Light on every photo, its on for the whole dive.

FIX Neo 1000 Mini WR

There is no mention of pre-flash:

Auto Shut-Off
That little round opening below the two red LEDs may seem innocuous but its full of magic! The Auto Shut-Off (ASO) of the Neo Mini detects the flash from a strobes and automatically shuts off the Mini's red or white light output. This feature frees the photographer from the need to dim their focus light to avoid undesirable side effects in the photo. Without dimming a traditional focus light, you can wind up with excess or conflicting shadows or an undesirable red cast in your photos. With the ASO feature those concerns no longer exist. After about 1 second from the ASO, the Neo Mini turns on again allowing you to capture the next series of shots.
 
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