Hookah questions, electric any good?

[highflier]

Hi all,
I am padi certified and have my own dive gear (less tanks) But I am getting into shallow water lobstering. Dive gear just does not seem to work on cause of the frequency of in/out and move boat to next spot. I am thinking that a boat based Hookah system may work. Grab mask snorkel and fins jump in and spend 4-5 min in water and back out I would come. Typical depth for this would be around 10 feet, never more then 15-20' and I really doubt even that deep.
I currently am snorkeling but it gets pretty tiring fast holding breath at 10' while you try to tickle the bug out of his hole. Then repeat 2-5 more times if it is a larger hole with lots of bugs.

I have lots of questions and encourage all discussions on this subject.

1) Comments on works will or not vs scuba.
2) Electric systems specifically Hookah Max 12Volt reliability and functionality.
3) Value of above system used but in good working shape. (100' hose and setup as a single)
4) other systems that you may recommend (on a tight budget)

I am also considering a tank based hookah setup where it would be a scuba tank of air, with a 1st stage and 75' of hose with a second stage. similar to this.
http://www.divers-supply.com/surfac...ent=PKGSNUBA&gclid=CLSGufrGns8CFQsehgod7H4E_g


I am sure many will say suit up and use full dive gear, But seeing as I am the one that drives the boat, putting gear on and taking off, or trying to drive boat while in gear just does not seem to be the right idea.

many dive spots are 500 feet apart. some further but nothing that would be more then a few minutes via boat.

Highflier

 

[2airishuman]

A system with a floating cylinder will be less maintenance and probably cost less in the long run as long as you have a source of convenient, reasonably priced air fills. The 12v pumps generally will go through batteries fairly quickly, so for a day in the water you'll need multiple sets, they have to be recharged and don't last forever. I haven't used the pumps but secondhand reports are that they will go hundreds of hours between overhaul/replacement.

You may also find that your diving style is well served by the use of SCUBA using a backpack with no BC, possibly with a somewhat smaller cylinder.

 

[highflier]

I think I may be OK with batteries, Boat has 3 built in, they all charge off the motors, which should be able to keep up as I get 70 amps out of each motor while running, although I am unsure what the charge rate would be at idle, it looks to be around 5-50 amps.
FWIW Hookah max claims 45 amps while motor is running, and it uses a small tank thus runs about 30% of the time with 1 diver.


You may be right about using a cylinder as being cheaper, especially if I need to rebuild compressor that often.

The idea of a small cylinder would be great, if I could refill throughout the day. Something so small that it is not a burden to toss on and off with a backpack so to speak. I only need 10 min at 10' per dive.

Highflier

 

[Bubblesong]

Will you have a co-worker helping you? Either system would be hard work to manage solo.

 

[2airishuman]

So is your idea to leave the air source on the boat? Most of the setups are designed to float in the water, hence my battery comment.

If you're going to leave it on the boat, then that opens up options with both approaches. With an electric pump, you would want to use a battery isolator and 2nd battery or have some means of starting the boat motor if the battery is dead. The load is manageable for a charging system that's in great shape but if there's a bad ground or loose connection between the alternator and the battery you may stop charging without realizing it.

With cylinders that stay on the boat, you could bring however much air you need in whatever size cylinders you find to be convenient and cost effective overall, considering fills. You would want a solid means of securing them in place, and a means of securing the hose so that it puts no strain on the 1st stage.

Shallow water isn't entirely free of hazards so take care. Be sure you can maintain positive buoyancy at the surface and have signalling means, in case you somehow get separated from your boat.

 

[Z Gear]

Will you have a co-worker helping you? Either system would be hard work to manage solo.

If you do use this system, be aware of the risks you might be taking by not treating this just like scuba. Stay at your depth until you are finished with your dive, then head for the surface. Don't go up and down like if you were snorkeling while in the shallows you will definitely injure your self.
The biggest thing will be your safety and remembering to treat this like if you were scuba diving normally. IMO
.

 

[KevinNM]

Also, if you let the engine idle be really sure you have no possibility of sucking engine exhaust into your compressor.

 

[fstbttms]

2) Electric systems specifically Hookah Max 12Volt reliability and functionality.

Hookamax would have you believe that they are some sort of innovator in the dive industry and that the hookahs they sell are purpose-built and designed by them for SSA use. The reality is that the Hookamax 12-volt setup (for instance) is based on nothing more than a cheap, Chinese-made POS compressor that you can buy all over the internet for a fraction of the price.

Here's the Hookamax 12-volt rig.




Here's the same compressor, with many returns found by Googling "12-volt air compressor."



Here's the part I like best- for a mere $225, Hookamax will sell you this $50 pool toy to float your overpriced hookah around:

 

[highflier]

Sorry for slow reply, I guess I do not have e-mail notice setup or something incorrect.
I am aware of dangers with breathing gas under water, My boat has 3 batteries and also has cross over switches, Thus boat would always be start-able, But that does not cure the possibity of the house battery getting run dry by bad connection.

I am leaning towards a tank based system so that if desired it would be easy to make floatable, I could even just put tank on my BCD and toss the rig in the water. This of course only takes swapping out my standard hose for a 30-60' hose.

I am unsure how to resolve the bounce dive effect, as many dives my be 1-2 min then move and dive again.
Thanks for replies and keep them coming. Also if anybody has a good source for the hookah hose, feel free to post.

Lastly, I find it hard to believe that the compressor is identical to the Chinese units that have high failure rate. Don't take that as "Not made in china" Just that it must have a little better QC or slightly better metals then the cheap version etc...

Highflier

 

[fstbttms]

I find it hard to believe that the compressor is identical to the Chinese units that have high failure rate. Don't take that as "Not made in china" Just that it must have a little better QC or slightly better metals then the cheap version etc...

Why do you find it hard to believe? Did you look at the pix? They're identical. Look at the Hookamax 110-volt and gas-powered rigs. Every single one is based on Chinese knock-offs of construction site hotdog compressors, the kind which no high-end hookah retailer would sell. Do a little research and you'll see I'm right.

Or don't. It's your dime.