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Looks like in the photo the doors have weatherstripping to make a tight seal. Maybe an attempt to keep bugs out? If you do that, everything must be bone dry before closing up, AND I would put moisture and odor absorbers in there. Can't help you with exact plans, but if you want a good...

He was looking down the barrel. Hard to do that with your back to it. I guess that deserves another quote "never get in front of anything that's loaded unless you intend to kill they guy behind it". That was someone on a military range many years ago. By the way, it was dry pool chlorine...

Sure, now the tank is a decoration and you're using grains of pyrodex in a flintlock, but at the beginning you were talking about a quarter cup of BP and some wadding in the tank... The current plan sounds a lot more effective, and safer to boot.

When I was a kid we used to have a great deal of fun with various bits of pipe, firecrackers, BB's, smokeless powder, waterproof fuse, rocket engines, match heads etc. When my backyard neighbor stopped coming to school, I found out he'd had an accident. Months later a new kid showed up at...

Remind me to put on my flack vest when you light this thing. It failed hydro because something is wrong with it, and you want to load it with explosives? On a practicality note, this cannon would be classified as a 50-pounder. That's a BIG cannon. You'd need a serious wad to make it go...

The major safety concern is at the point where the wire goes through the hole in the base. If the insulation chafes through, you have trouble. I would use double insulated cord (it's usually round, and has separately insulated wires covered in a secondary insulation layer), or maybe a ferrule...

Good Lord! Is that an EDGE?

There is also a spray-on version of these products. Both (by the time you spray enough coats to provide a good coating) are fairly thick and would interfere with the proper operation of much of our gear. The other problem with these coatings is that they don't adhere well to metal. On a...

If your only choices are aluminum and stainless, then that's accurate. The similar process on stainless is called electropolishing, and from the name you can guess that it's the exact opposite of what you want. It also does not allow you to dye the part afterward. However, titanium can be...

350xfire sells boro lenses... oops. Should have read page 2!

aoptec.com They have a minimum order, but if you want to stock up on a bunch of sizes (tank valve, light switch, light head, backup light head, HP hose, LP hose, etc) it's pretty good deal.

Go to McMaster-Carr and search on u-bolt. They have several that look like what you want, though they don't tell you the bolt hole spacing, you'd have to figure it out.

Very nice! BTW, Privateer Divers has a little metal bracket designed for attaching D-rings with hose clamps. Much neater than just sticking it under the strap.

Aw, where's the fun in that?

Good point. And as they say, one test is worth a thousand expert opinions.

I'm not thrilled with the idea of trusting important stuff to a device being used backward at well over 10 times its rated capacity. O-rings are designed for this kind of service. Still, the plug IS simple and easy!

Since you played the chick card yourself, I was going to suggest you get some manly man to turn you a plug on his lathe. But it sounds like you may be able to do that yourself. However, I like the idea of cutting the groves into the OD of the tube even better. That way you don't have to...

The guy in the thread you linked certainly thinks it worked! There are a number of options now, like the P7 mentioned by 350xfire, or an SST-50. I'm looking for an aluminum Darrell Allen light so I can put a couple of SST-90's in it and get 4000-6000 lm! That would melt the plastic light...

Check the Harbor Freight flyers. They've recently had cupons for free lights! D

Privateer Divers also have finger spools in various sizes. Check both the Manta Industries and Highseas Millwork sections, as both have spools. D