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1/2-off retail ($800 for the pair). Includes 4 diffusers and 4 tubes of Inon lubricant. One strobe has been overhauled (electronics relplaced) after 2 years of heavy use (~25,000 photos) and now only has 2 dives on it; the second strobe only has ~9 months of shooting. Both strobes are in perfect...

If you have any developed film that was unexposed prior to processing (looks rosy, not black), tape this over the internal flash using electrical tape. It will block visible light affecting backscatter, but the wavelength of light that passes will trigger the strobe.

I have both and can say that although on paper, the YS-D1s have the same power as the YS-250s, in practice, they don't appear to have the same 'throw', and I prefer the apparently warmer color temperature and faster recylce time for the YS-250s. That said, if I'm doing big animal or wide angle...

I love the FIX LED1000. Been diving it for about a year, with no problems. Great for night diving, great for focus, so so for video (just not bright enough in bright daylight)....I've just replaced mine with a Sola 1200 due to the smaller size and lighter weight.

The main problem with using the built-in focus light is that it has a narrow beam, and you have to aim the strobe directly at the subject to use the light at close range, but this is not how you want to position your strobe. I'd go with the Sola 600 or 1200 (1200 would be my preference, and I...

Many are hoping that they can replace the YS-250s with the YS-D1s...much less expensive, same recylce time, same power. We'll see how they perform in the real world. For pelagics, you'll want something with fast recycle times. The YS-250s are really the go-to strobe right now for this type of...

The fiber optic connector on the Z-240 is the small, clear part on the bottom of the strobe. The Nauticam housing has dual fiber optic connectors on the front of the housing, above the lens, and in-line with the camera's flash. If the other end of the connector doesn't fit, you don't have the...

I was told by an expert that when the strobe is set to S-TTL, the 'normal' power setting is "B", with "A" for + (more light) or "C" for - (less light). In practice, it's easier to either offset the strobe that you want to throw less light (aiming slightly away from the subject), or back it off...

The buoancy of your rig will vary depending on the port/lens combination you're using for a particular dive. For example, with my Nauticam 550D (a very negative housing) I have 2 general arm/float combos: 1) For the 18-55mm kit lens/flat port and the 100mm macro lens/longer flat port, I use...

Today was dive #133 for the housing. Assuming I take an average of 80 photos per dive, that puts the housing total at ~11,000 shots. Today, the shutter release spring broke while underwater. By manually moving the shutter release control lever back and forth between shots, I was able to...

Hollywoodivers - other than the two listed problems, I haven't had any others. I now consider it a robust housing, and dive with it 2-3 times per week, on average. If Nauticam comes up with a housing for the Canon 5D MK III, I'll probably buy it....

I'm now nearly eight months into using the Nauticam 550D housing, and some 100+ dives later, I had just removed a port and was reinstalling another when the port locking lever that rotates the internal port lock failed to move. After a bit of frustration, I noticed that another one of the allen...

The alignment problem was solved with a new rubber tip for the aperture/shutter speed button that was only 1.5mm longer than the original tip. A new set of higher-grade stainless steel circlips (snap rings) were supplied, and I've since completed 27 dives, with no additional problems and am now...

Per requests, I've attached a photo of the machine screw that loosened, causing a leak. I also found a second machine screw, which I believe penetrates the housing, but to my knowledge, no one has reported a leak yet. For those of you who don't think Nauticam should recall all of the 550D...

For nearly 8 years, I used the Canon housings. For a while, a dive shop on Maui was able to get o-rings from Canon and overhauled the housings. No more. My friend bought o-rings from Canon directly for the Canon housing for the G9, but Canon would not install them; I did, and it took me about...

The dealer tested the housing and determined that the housing was leaking from the rocker switch, and not from the pushbutton shafts located beneath the rocker. A machine screw that holds the rocker key assembly on the housing had backed out with use. The screw was tightened, and immediately...

Attached are some photos of corrosion on the housing (exterior shots of rust on the eye piece steel retainer ring, and one of rust on a non-stainless snap ring on the ISO lever; other pics attached are of internal corrosion, post-flood). The cause of the flood appeared to be leaking seals under...

I've been diving the Nauticam 550D for some 5 weeks, or ~25 dives. On the 24th dive, a small amount of water entered the housing, and was mostly located in the bottom of the rear half of the housing. Today, I pushed my luck and completed my last dive on Guam for the trip. About 90 minutes...

I had the Sea&Sea RDX500 (for the Rebel T1i) and never had any problems with it. No leaks, no issues. Period. Now, I have the Nauticam 550D, and I've had the shutter stick on one dive, and on the last two dives (less than 5 weeks into using the housing), had some 'minor' leaks that appear to...

So far, I've done about 10 more dives with the housing, and the problem has not cropped up again....there were no loose gears or apparent obstructions.