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The Divesoft unit gets you the face MAV's which are a huge upgrade IMO. If you're taking the step backwards from a BOV to a DSV that's the only one that I would seriously consider because of those MAV's. I am curious why you are going away from a BOV, not the direction I would go

I don't know from direct experience, but it is spec'd to run that motor. Now, your research is correct with a caveat. Most VFD's are not rated for single phase input and since they are technically rated for total current you have to compensate for the higher current of single phase on the way...

Walter Kidde is the manufacturer, I believe they are nominal capacity of 44cf but @Luis H would be able to verify

still wear a Seiko Turtle every day. It comes with me on any dive where I'm wearing a wetsuit but since I wear it with a metal bracelet I don't wear it when I'm diving dry. If I'm doing quarry dives where I know the depth profile really well I will often just wear it instead of a computer...

couple of dollars to the board, not much at all. For a backup light in a cave, I would rather have the taper if it doesn't have multiple output settings since it gives you more burntime but I would rather it have a "low" setting and have the light automatically kick down to low. Dive Rite at...

admittedly they do spec the SST-40, so in an ideal world 183 lumen/watt, but they also do state 92% efficiency. 1600/183=8.74w @ 92%=9.5w 24wh vs 40wh if we believe that 92% efficiency claim, that they emitter does not get hotter than 85c due to heat sinking, and that they're using the top...

I think this should be a new retirement hobby for @The Chairman to help rebuild said orphan pumps, they need a home!

I'm grateful my camera addiction is above the water and not under it.... I am down to a reasonable number though. 2 Rix SA6's that I need to finish with @The Chairman once his back is unbroken, a K14, the 2 Sierra's, and the O2 generator/compressor. Though I have a bigger bank setup than most...

you won't be able to run a 3hp motor on a 120vac circuit without a soft-starter, it will trip breakers and potentially melt the outlet.

2.2kw is possible to run on a true 20a circuit if nothing else is running on that circuit at the same time AND it has a soft start installed. Most of the issues with the smaller compressor motors is in getting them started. Unfortunately I do not know of any VFD's that will bring the voltage up...

generally with more contemplative thinking the diver will determine that a pony bottle is not necessary, and if it is, then they go to a true redundant system.

There is a reason that heavy fins are standard with drysuits, I would strongly recommend you get a pair of heavy fins before the class, you'll hate life a lot less. Scubapro Jet, Hollis F1, etc.

and 4. be grateful that you have a manufacturer that actually understands batteries and is willing to use the manual to teach you best practices instead of some of the others that give you very useless information

@lvnspeed 1. If you really want to DIY, you can go to your local hydraulic shop and get the hose, then find the yoke fill whips. What I would recommend though is just calling John at Northeast Scuba Supply and he'll get a full whip done up for you...

@stuartv since you posted all of the BMS configs, and kudos to @Jon Nellis to leaving all of that unlocked on the BMS since the users may have different cells than what shipped from him! Also interesting that it has a cycling capacity so the SoC is based on leaving a bit of buffer on the end...

@stuartv yeah just saw 18s, so just adjust that math up a bit to multiply by 18. Correct on your BMS SoC 100/60/20, if and only if the Ah is correct. Personally I would err on conservative with the ah setting. Nominal pack voltage is 3.6v*18s=64.8v. Nominal pack capacity in wh is...

batteries are always rated their nominal voltage, this is typically 3.6v or 3.7v depending on the cell. It will say it on the side, not sure which specific cell they are using. Below you can see for the NC18650ga that it is rated for 3.5ah at 3.6v, these are nominal ratings so there is some...

the 3ph will be lighter for reference, 10hp fast motors like that are usually around 120lbs, similar to a set of filled double 104's. Not light by any means, but not egregious. Will be 10-20lbs lighter than the 1ph

cost and convenience. With the integrated 1st stages you are binding the regulator to a specific tank so if you want to dive twice in one day without going to a fill station you have to own 2x regulator sets. Very expensive proposition, same reason that you don't see integrated regulators on...

There is something to be said about going to different places/people and getting different perspectives. This is not to discount ECD in the slightest, just that moving around and taking a class that will introduce you to a new group of divers and a potential new perspective is a very powerful...