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I have not be able to find any manual for this software. By fooling around with the program I have been able to figure most of it out. However, I don't understand what I am seeing with the tissue graph. Can anyone advise how to decipher the information that is displayed in the tissue graph...

Soalle I think everything is actually working fine. I tried to do exactly what you were doing in a darkened room and with normal room lights on and a I got very similar results. I have always left the flash in B on my Olympus cameras and when I needed to adjust compensation I have used exposure...

I don't think the lack of fibre optic cables is the problem. As I suggested before I don't think you have synch problem but rather an exposure problem. I note that in the pictures it appears that the room is darkened. Were you able to properly expose pictures in that room without the flash...

I am not sure what you are doing wrong. Since you can see the flash we know it is firing (although I cannot see the flash firing on the camera). However, it doesn't look right. I would have expected to see a very bright image of the flash with reflections and glare so this suggests that it...

This article suggests that for one micro 4/3rds camera the delay caused by the pre-flash is about 0.16 seconds or 0.28 seconds. The first number is the time from pressing the shutter to the firing of the pre-flash and the second is the total time from pressing the shutter until the main flash...

I have used both. For me the major drawback to TTL is the delay between when I pressed the shutter and the image is taken because of the delay created by the pre-flash. However, if I am shooting something where movement of the subject is not an issue, I have had good results with TTL.

Not familiar with the camera but have two of these flashes. Your camera needs to be set to a forced flash mode (that is a mode that will always fire the flash. They are often labelled forced flash or fill flash). I doubt that you could visually detect the pre-flash. If you have it set to...

Received an email from Olympus today. The camera is supposed to ship early December and costs $1999.99 ($2499.99 Canadian). The housing is supposed to ship mid-November and the cost is $1299.99 ($1599.99 Canadian). I have a trip scheduled for mid-December and am considering getting both but I...

I am using dual S2000 strobes and when I am shooting fish that spook easily and will turn away I use manual. The delay in using sTTL doesn't allow me to catch the picture I have framed. For static subjects or predictable subjects I like sTTL. The delay caused by sTTL is not nearly as bad as...

I have been interested in trying this but could not on my last trip because of equipment problems. I think using the delay for flash will make holding the camera steady for even 10 shots next to impossible. I plan to use it for macros using two video lights so that I don't need any delay. I...

As suggested it is difficult to help without more information. Is the problem that the pictures are dark or too brightly lit? If it is the former try shooting into a mirror. If the strobes (both) are not flashing in the photo in the mirror, then you are not in synch. If the flash is set to...

I too am shooting with Oly cameras and have found TTL to work quite well. I usually use it for macro or any static situation. If I am shooting fish that are swimming I prefer manual because the delay while the pre-flash fires almost always results in a shot that has the fish in a different...

I assumed there was no underwater modes because I could not find them in the white balance settings but Chris is absolutely correct. One has to assign this mode to a function button to access it. This convoluted approach may be needed as the flash can be fired without raising it in the...

I don't know your camera, housing or strobes but I suspect that the strobes are being set off by the pre-flash on your camera's flash. By the time the actual flash has fired and the shutter has opened, the strobes have already fired. You will need to review your strobe manual and determine how...

The other thread suggests that the manual white balance does not work if the scene is over or under exposed. The suggestion is that the white balance should be set using one of the automatic exposure modes and not the manual exposure mode.

I don't think the EPL-5 has underwater modes. I looked at the manual and I could not find them listed and they are clearly listed under the white balance modes for other Olympus cameras. Hopefully, using one of the automatic exposure modes to set manual white balance, as suggested by timz...

In another recent thread there are similar complaints about the EPL-5 (the thread says EPLR). One solution might be to use the underwater modes which, I believe, are designed for shooting without strobes.

Not sure what FOC stands for. The title of your question refers to E-PLR rather than E-PL5 which threw me for a minute. I don't think the EPL-5 has underwater white balance modes so that would not be a solution. I haven't used your camera but I have had no problems with one touch white...

I prefer a zip lock bag. I re-grease my O ring every time I open the housing even if I am only taking the camera out to change a battery. This means I clean the o-ring with a microfibre cloth, clean the o-ring groove in the housing, re-grease the o-ring and install it in the groove and close...