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Hi, Does anyone have experience with bot the Mares MR22 (Abyss) and Aqualung Titan first stages? Are the HP seat poppets interchangeable between the two? to my eyes (and caliper), all the important sizes of the poppets are identical (the diameter of the plastic puck is different, but I suppose...

Hi,The Molnár János cave is closed now for the public, except for a small group of divers and researchers. Diving in the Kőbánya limestone mine is possible, If you are still interested (I hope my mail is not too late, I did not find this thread earlier) contact me here.regards,dino

Hi, I've reassembled the light with new o-rings and have not experienced any problem since (on ~20 cave and night dives). Now I'm thinking about converting it to UV, because the LED part can be very easily replaced. d

Thanks for the kind offer. However the USA is far from here (=Hungary), sending parcels from here is either expensive or cumbersome and slow. Or both :) Anyway, I was not patient enough and yesterday managed to screw the head off with the help of a lathe chuck and a heat gun. The inside looked...

Hi all, I've just managed to flood my hollis led3. Is there any way to repair it? I have got no idea about how to take it apart futher than removing the battery holder. regards, dino

Two o2 sensors in our dive group started acting strangely. Both are GOEL-370 sensors, used in GOX-100T analysers by Greisinger Electronic. Both sensors are only half year old. The symptoms are: after switching on and calibrating the analysers the output seems to be stable at 21%, but changing...

awap, jacked_72, Zung: thanks for the advice. Considering tham I'm rather lazy anyway, I'll leave it as it is.

I have taken apart in the last few days two MK2 -s that had blue springs (just a puff of blue on one side), but the usual cleaning (dish detergent and toothbrush) removed the paint as well, not just the old grease, so I can't supply a picture. Both MK2 -s are quite old (one from ~'80, the other...

I have acquired a version of mk2 that has only very small holes on the ambient chamber. As far as I know, this design was for keeping the silicone in, but since I don't plan to fill it with silicone, the only effect of the small holes is that it is harder to rinse the reg. I plan to drill up...

Thanks for the schematic, Zung. Can anyone explain why this design (putting the lever on the opposite side compared to a simple "downstream") is better? It is still unbalanced, still externally unadjustable, but contains a lot of extra parts...

Is the inside of this 2nd supposed to look like this? From the shape of the plastic on the side where the stem of the poppet goes in I'd think the lever originally belongs there, and all the unnecessary screws, shafts and stuff came from the Arctic. I could not find a schematic for the Nordic on...

As far as I know nor viton, nor epdm or nitrile contains chlorine in its main composition. So phosgene is probably out, too.

For ice diving I normally use a Mares MR22 and an Oceanic FDX10, the MK20's were reserved for stages for cave diving. Maybe I try them next weekend in the lake, the surface is frozen now for a week so it will be crystal clear down under. My method for testing is to stay at the end of the dive...

wow. One other function I did not think of. Do you know how effective it was, or whether it is a good idea to try to recoat the spring with some soft resin or something?

I have tried to use 1.5% citric acid solution (plus a little detergent) for the cleaning of regulator parts in the ultrasound cleaner. I have set the concentration so that the pH is roughly equivalent to the 2.5% acetic acid solution that is normally used. I expected the citric acid to behave...

In one of the old MK20's the main spring was coated with a semi-transparent layer of plastic, that was soft enough to scratch with a fingernail, and flaking in places. I have decided to remove it with a brass brush, but I do not completely understand the original purpose of the coating. Most of...

Interestingly, I have discovered, that in the box where I threw the shims from the old MK20's there are two types, a slightly more and a slightly less transparent one. If I remember right, the more transparent extruded, the less transparent did not.

Thanks for the advice. I have also seen that 30Nm on the MK20 TIS diagram on scubaproregulatormuseum.org, but I thought it was a misplaced label, since the 15Nm (actually 15-17) is engraved into the retainer itself...

i have acquired a pair of used mk20 -s. After servicing them I have set the IP by adding shims between the regulator body and the seat retainer. The torque specified (both in the service manual and on the back of the seat retainer) is 15 Nm, however at his torque the shims that were supplied...

Sorry, I have to improve my reading skills :) (and English :() Nevertheless I have never seen pure aluminium oxide colored as black. (it is quite aside the discussion, but as far as I know carborundum is silicon carbide, not oxide)