Atomic 2nd stage tuning

[Open Ocean Diver]

Question for the DIY out there.

Getting ready to install a new service kit. Reading from Atomics technical service procedure below.

Those that do service their own Atomic second stage, is this the procedure you follow, adjusting the cracking effort with the spring pad adjuster?

Just interesting that you adjust the orifice for no leaks and then use the spring adjuster pad for cracking effort, with the adjuster all the way out.

TECHNICAL SERVICE PROCEDURE

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Initial adjustment as follows: The orifice is screwed fully into the tube then out 3/4 turn, the adjustment knob all the way out, and the spring pad fully retracted into knob (counterclockwise when looking at knob end.

Pressurize and unscrew the orifice away from the seat until the lever reaches its highest possible position and does not leak. Operate the lever several times, then screw the orifice back in so a very small amount of lever travel is allowed (1/32") before the poppet leaks. Operate the lever again and test for leaks.

Screw the spring adjusting pad in or out with a 1/8" hex wrench until a cracking effort of approximately 1.1-1.4" is achieved

Thanks,

 

[Wookie]

Yes. And although I am a DIY, I am a Atomic tech in good standing and my wife does it for a living. That's how it's done.

Unless you have the real tool. If you have the real tool, you screw in the orifice until the tool no longer engages, and that is the initial setting. She who does it for a living says that she rarely adjusts it off that setting.

At 1.1 to 1.4 inches, you will likely get freeflow when jumping in the water. She who must be obeyed says that she adjusts the orifice pad to achieve a slightly higher WOB on the rental regs. Never on a customers reg.

 

[lexvil]

Yes but I may set mine a bit lower than 1”

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Unless you have the real tool. If you have the real tool, you screw in the orifice until the tool no longer engages, and that is the initial setting. She who does it for a living says that she rarely adjusts it off that setting.

I have the pneumatic adjusting tool, and the tee handle tool. Do you mean adjust the orifice all the way in with the tee handle with spacer installed on the tee adjuster?

 

[Wookie]

the tool that sets the orifice is indeed one end of a tee handle tool. I’m not sure if we’re talking the same tool.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

the tool that sets the orifice is indeed one end of a tee handle tool. I’m not sure if we’re talking the same tool.

Unless you have the real tool. If you have the real tool, you screw in the orifice until the tool no longer engages, and that is the initial setting. She who does it for a living says that she rarely adjusts it off that setting.[/QUOTE]

for the above you're using the atomic tee handle tool? Assuming this is the real tool your speaking of.

 

[saxman242]

for the above you're using the atomic tee handle tool? Assuming this is the real tool your speaking of.

 

[Wookie]

View attachment 583403

Yes, that one.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

View attachment 583403

Got it... it’s the orifice sleeve, I have the tool.

This seems to be a big + with Atomic in assembly and adjustment, where the orifice is never turned while pressing against the soft seat. If I’m reading this correctly.

Thanks,

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

So I went through the procedure for tuning the second stage, set the orifice as described, and then adjusted the spring pad for cracking effort. Very twitchy during the adjustment, It took some time to adjust but finally did consistently @1 on the mag gauge.

Wonder what other have experienced when adjusting?

Reg was pressurized and adjusting the spring pad with 1/8 hex.

A year ago my LDS rebuilt both primary and secondary. Primary was set to .9 H20 and the secondary set to .7 H20... go figure.