Diving in Southeast Asia, November 2015 - March 2016

[Daniel Andersson]

Hello fellow divers!

In November, I will leave the dark and cold of Sweden for some months of backpacking in Southeast Asia! During my travel, I intend to do some diving and this is where I need help from you guys.

First some info about my previous diving experience:
I was certified with CMAS* about two years ago in Swedish waters (about 10 degrees Celsius and low visibility, dry suit). Four logged dives in total, all of which were part of the certification.

The countries that I will be visiting on my trip are Thailand, Indonesia (Bali, Gili, Komodo and thereabout), Philippines and Vietnam. In that order, about 3-4 weeks in each country.

So far I have done some reading about Cebu, Philippines (whale sharks at Oslob, sardine run in Moalboal and thresher sharks at Malapascua) and Coron Bay, Philippines (Japanese WW2 shipwrecks). I will probably do my first dives of the trip at Koh Tao, Thailand.

So my questions are:
1) Does the above seem like reasonable diving spots for a (more or less) beginner? And is the season right for whale sharks, thresher sharks and sardine runs at these spots?

2) What additional diving locations should I not miss while in the countries/places listed?

3) Are there any diving companies in the area that you have had a particularly good (or bad) experience with?

4) Do you have any additional advice for a first-time diver(/backpacker) in this area?

Thanks in advance!

/Daniel

 

[Wingy]

Id stay away from Koh Tao, the diving is very average and IMO its a money making pit where there are a lot better options in other nearby areas. If you are not set on Tao, have a look at Ao Nang in Krabi where you can do the Phi Phi islands and the phuket sites which are mostly all suited to beginners. I would recommend Poseidon Dive Krabi - contact Dan Sasse who is a CMAS instructor and great diver with his own boat, not always the case in Thailand. Let Dan know your dive history and he will give you a refresher course.

Indonesia is a massive area to cover as is Philippines. Bali - if you can narrow down the areas you want to dive then its easier to recommend a dive op. Aquamarine do a good safari around the dive sites of Bali which gets good wraps. If you are into shore diving, head for Tulumben. Muck diving in other areas, boat and drift diving in places like Nusa Penida/Lembongan once you are up to speed again after your break from diving have operators specific to those areas who get great reviews.

Check out some of the lonely planet underwater guides to countries too, I find them quite good.

Ditto Philippines, although I cannot comment as I have only dived Sabang. Im sure other people will have good advice for you on the areas you are interested in.

Vietnam to me is one of those countries you either love or hate. I once heard someone say going to Vietnam for the first time is like going to a Rave on Serapax. Id have to agree. I personally didnt like it and didnt feel the diving at Nah Trang (again, I am not well versed in Vietnamese dive spots just my personal opinion) to be anything special.

I think your rough itinerary is good although I feel it would be an absolute shame to miss Cambodia, while I didn't like Vietnam I love Cambodia. Flight from HCMC to Phnom Penh was about $50 from memory and a $6 bus trip from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap where Ankhor Wat is was money well spent. Its also a country where your money will go far and there is some diving, again, not spectacular but hey you are getting wet down at Siahnoukville where you have the beach life and party scene.

While you are in the neighbourhood so to speak why not check out Sipidan in Malaysia and North Sulawesi in Indo for good quality diving. In that general area you also could go to Derawan, Tioman Islands or Palau Weh in Sumatra.


Backpacking tips - have fun. Lots of it. Look scruffy..you look broke that way. Dont be paranoid about being alone in a foreign country, meet people, but use your normal sense of caution as you would at home. Leave extra days, things happen, volcanoes erupt, airports catch on fire, whatever, just be flexible. Write Blogs, take lots of photos and make lots of memories so in years from now when you are dealing with a grumpy boss you can go back to the world aquatic at the click of your mouse button. Work out what sort of topside stuff you want to do and give yourself a break between diving every few days so you dont get dived out and go see and do something on land from exploring jungles to checking out ancient temples or basket weaving classes. I made that bit up about basket-weaving, although i did enjoy it in PNG

Go for it and keep asking lots of questions til you get a solid idea of your itinerary down then start booking.

 

[Daniel Andersson]

Thank you Wingy for taking the time to answer my questions and for the great tips!

I will have to do some reading on the different areas of diving to figure out what they all mean. And then make a new, more specific, request on what kind of diving I want to do. It would be fun to try out as many types as possible, since I have only done very basic certification dives so far.

I will most likely have some time for Cambodia at the end of my trip, it seems like a wonderful country!

/Daniel

 

[chillyinCanada]

With regard to Koh Tao, I couldn't agree more with Wingy. Beautiful and fun but you'll be seeing and having lots anyway. But, ya, the diving truly sucks.

I'm going to Angkor Wat this winter too!

 

[Mucksavage]

I think most of the diving in Koh Tao is rubbish but Sail Rock and Chumphon Pinnacle are fantastic when on form. I dives each once on consecutive days and say loads of Bull Sharks, a Whale Shark and lots more. But then there are all the other dive sites . . I would agree its not a true dive destination really, its a mix of cheap, cheap diving and bars and beach life.

___________

Indonesia is fantastic but will involve lots of boats and buses. Cheap flights help so worth checking out how much to get from Bali to Manado for example so you can take in Lembeh and Bunaken. Komodo is great but mainly (but not always) done on Liveaboard. Gili Trawangan is a nice island to visit but I wouldn't go back for the diving.

___________

I have been to Vietnam twice and adore it but never bothered to dive there as it just never seemed up to the level of Philippines and indonesia. My big tip for there is to contact Easy Riders (Easy-Riders Vietnam - Travel Vietnam the real way by motorbike) and set up a personalised bike tour through the highlands and Mekong Delta. It costs a bit more then typical travel and in 2002 I agonised about whether I could afford 3 days like this. I went for it, extended to 5 and came back with my wife for a 7 day trip a few years later. It was worth later sacrifices!

Remember Xmas and New Year and beyond are relatively busy in the Philippines in some places so my tip would be to contact ahead your preferred dive centres. The good ones are usually those with a bit more happening. I'd recommend trying to fly directly into Cebu in the Philippines. Then you are in the centre of some great diving and all easy to get to. Malapascua, Moalboal, Dauin and Ap Island, Siquijor and Balicassag off Bohol. Turn that into a round trip and it would be great. The Philippines is easy to get around and people are friendly. Get a local SIM card and you'll be fine.

---------- Post added November 2nd, 2015 at 12:00 AM ----------

 

[wrenco]

Hi Daniel,

Please get in touch with us through letsdive@divenationph.com for more information on diving in the Philippines. We can arrange your transfers, accommodations as well as dive plans. Should you need dive courses, we have an in house instructor as well.

I have sent you a private message, kindly check.

Thank you.

 

[MV Dive]

Hi Daniel,

Please also consider a trip to Puerto Galera, and also Apo Reef, we do some short 4 night safari trips down to one of the best marine parks in the Philippines.

Kind regards
Kris