External rust, stripping & painting steel tanks

[Stoo]

Stoo once bubbled...
Hell, I'd be happy if they would just answer my email!

Still waiting...

 

[Rick Murchison]

I found some rust under the paint on the bottom of one of my OMS 85's. Made the decision to strip 'em and repaint with clear epoxy so I coiuld see the metal and never again get surprized with rust. I'll say this for the paint - it's tough to get off - regular commercial strippers were marginally effective, and it took a hell of a lot of elbow grease to finally get all the paint and primer off. But now they're repainted with the clear epoxy and I can inspect under the paint visually - haven't had any more rust since repainting, either.
I did a precautionary hydro (2 years early) after stripping 'em, by the way.
Rick

 

[Stoo]

It sounds like sand blasting would be the way to go. I'm not sure it'll be worth the effort. Pay for blasting. Buy the goop. I can generally get stuff from my LDS at cost... might just get a nice new tank... not OMS this time!

S

 

[pescador775]

The only way to deal with this junk is to sand blast and metallize the tank. "Metallizing" is a Zinc spray (flame spray) that is almost as tough as hot dip. Paint sticks to its porous surface really well. The paint that was mentioned, ZRC or something, is a zinc paint and is the best choice for finish coat. Double zinc so to speak. Years ago, when OMS first came on the scene I gave them a call. My impression was that they were dodgy and arrogant. I have never owned one of their overpriced tanks. If I want a Faber tank I buy one with the Faber name.

 

[GP]

Anyone know approximately how much it costs to have a tank repainted? I have a couple OMS/Faber 85's and I'm just curious. One of them needs a hydro next April and both could stand a new paint job. Just wondering if it's worth it and where the best place to have it done is.

 

[Rick Murchison]

GP once bubbled...
Anyone know approximately how much it costs to have a tank repainted? I have a couple OMS/Faber 85's and I'm just curious. One of them needs a hydro next April and both could stand a new paint job. Just wondering if it's worth it and where the best place to have it done is.

Having stripped and painted two myself last year, I'd charge more than they're worth to do it again! I'm sure a paint & body shop could strip 'em easily and cheaply for you - just make sure everything's "cold" process and non ablative for the metal itself. And get a hydro after you're done, regardless how long the current one's good for.
Rick

 

[FredT]

pescador775 once bubbled...
The only way to deal with this junk is to sand blast and metallize the tank. "Metallizing" is a Zinc spray (flame spray) that is almost as tough as hot dip.

Check with DOT before flame spray. ANY application of heat to a tank after manufacturer's hydro voids the roll mark and condems the tank. Flame spray bay be an allowed exception, but given their normally anal attitude I doubt it.

FT

 

[pescador775]

For Pete's sake, give it a rest. Asahi and Faber metallize their tanks at the factory. I personally own 6 tanks that were treated with this method. I know that San Diego Sandblasting has flame sprayed hundreds of SCUBA cylinders. Many CA divers treasured their twin 38's and would have them metallized after the hot dip galvo or OD paint began to bleed. A number of divers made doubles or triples from Navy 40 cf life raft bottles. The hot setup included metallizing.

Imron is good for cars and boats. On tanks it's a joke.

 

[FredT]

pescador775 once bubbled...
For Pete's sake, give it a rest. Asahi and Faber metallize their tanks at the factory. I personally own 6 tanks that were treated with this method. I know that San Diego Sandblasting has flame sprayed hundreds of SCUBA cylinders. Many CA divers treasured their twin 38's and would have them metallized after the hot dip galvo or OD paint began to bleed. A number of divers made doubles or triples from Navy 40 cf life raft bottles. The hot setup included metallizing.

Metalizing at the factory is done pre-hydro certification and part of the TESTED production process. The "no evidence of external heat" rule is CGA adoped by DOT to prohibit ANY heat damaged tanks from being used. Even a scorched paint spot or a single small arc start mark on a bottle condems it! On most SCUBA tanks I'd not have a problem with the metalizing process, but DOT has known to be a bit wierd on this subject in the past so I suggested you check it out before risking a tank. IF metalizing is going to void the tank down the road, I'd rather just do the cold galv trick.

pescador775 once bubbled...
Imron is good for cars and boats. On tanks it's a joke.

Agree 100%

FT

 

[DocRCH]

I have a couple of dbl 98s and one set has the rust problem. I wrote OMS and did not hear from them. I also have a couple of 131s and do not see any rust (yet). I understand that both the Scubapro tanks and OMS are made by Faber and the OMS 98 and SP 95 are the same tank. Next time PST.

Robert:doctor: