Rangiroa and Fakarava

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OP
richhagelin

richhagelin

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Location
Spokane, WA
Looking to go to French Polynesia this fall. Two experienced divers interested in sharks, dolphins, whales, large sea life. What’s our best option? Open to shore based or boat options. Would appreciate advice on where to dive, where to stay and who to dive with. We’re not concerned with nightlife or non diving activities. Be flying from Seattle. Would also appreciate advice on flight options.

thanks

richhagelin
 
How many days do you have?

For humpback whales, in late September, I spent 5 days snorkeling in Rurutu with Humpback mothers and calves. This experience topped the two trips I had done to the Silver Banks in the Dominican Republic because the whales were reliably found everyday in a protected bay. There was no need to spend hours on the high seas looking for blows and then wait and see if we could get into the water with them.

In Rurutu, I stayed at the Vaitumu Village Resort - very comfortable, with good food. For operator, Vaitumu has its own operation but I found them to be unreliable. Tareparepa Baleines Rurutu was better.

I also spent another 4 days snorkeling with humpbacks on the island of Tahiti in early October. I stayed at the Te Moana in Puna'auia and went out with Tahiti Dive Management. This can be as productive as in Rurutu but they have to go out and find the blows. On the other hand, you can save some money by not having to travel to Rurutu and back.

For diving, both Rangiroa and Fakarava are good. You are more likely to see dolphins in Rangiroa than in Fakarava, but in my opinion, Fakarava has the edge when it comes to sheer number of sharks. Because there are quite a few lodging options and dive operators to choose from, you may wish to check the "Pacific Islands" forum for all the different recommendations.

In Rangiroa, I usually stay at Teina et Marie and dive with Raie Manta Club, which is next door. But all dive operators will provide pickup and drop-off from/to wherever you stay. I've also stayed at the Raira Lagon - this one is more upscale.

In North Fakarava, I've stayed at Pension Tokerau, Pension Kori-Kori, and at the Havaiki Pearl Resort. Havaiki is by far the nicer of the three. I've always dived with Kaina Plongée. In South Fakarava, I've only stayed at Tetamanu Village.

As far as flights, I usually fly out of LAX to Papeete on Air Tahiti Nui. I believe that Air France also flies out of LAX. Other options are United and French Bee out of San Francisco.
 
How many days do you have?

For humpback whales, in late September, I spent 5 days snorkeling in Rurutu with Humpback mothers and calves. This experience topped the two trips I had done to the Silver Banks in the Dominican Republic because the whales were reliably found everyday in a protected bay. There was no need to spend hours on the high seas looking for blows and then wait and see if we could get into the water with them.

In Rurutu, I stayed at the Vaitumu Village Resort - very comfortable, with good food. For operator, Vaitumu has its own operation but I found them to be unreliable. Tareparepa Baleines Rurutu was better.

I also spent another 4 days snorkeling with humpbacks on the island of Tahiti in early October. I stayed at the Te Moana in Puna'auia and went out with Tahiti Dive Management. This can be as productive as in Rurutu but they have to go out and find the blows. On the other hand, you can save some money by not having to travel to Rurutu and back.

For diving, both Rangiroa and Fakarava are good. You are more likely to see dolphins in Rangiroa than in Fakarava, but in my opinion, Fakarava has the edge when it comes to sheer number of sharks. Because there are quite a few lodging options and dive operators to choose from, you may wish to check the "Pacific Islands" forum for all the different recommendations.

In Rangiroa, I usually stay at Teina et Marie and dive with Raie Manta Club, which is next door. But all dive operators will provide pickup and drop-off from/to wherever you stay. I've also stayed at the Raira Lagon - this one is more upscale.

In North Fakarava, I've stayed at Pension Tokerau, Pension Kori-Kori, and at the Havaiki Pearl Resort. Havaiki is by far the nicer of the three. I've always dived with Kaina Plongée. In South Fakarava, I've only stayed at Tetamanu Village.

As far as flights, I usually fly out of LAX to Papeete on Air Tahiti Nui. I believe that Air France also flies out of LAX. Other options are United and French Bee out of San Francisco.
I read your posts on diving in French Polynesia and found them extremely informative for planning my first trip there in Sept/Oct of 2024. I'd like to swim with the humpbacks in Rurutu but am having difficulty finding contact info for Tareparepa Baleines. I tried the email address listed on their Facebook page. The most recent posts are from 2015. How did you contact them and how far in advance would you suggest I book the trip? Thank so much for your help.
 
Since I hardly do Facebook, I don't know what they have listed for email address. But this is the one that I have for THE guy who coordinates pretty much everything on land, including bookings. He seems to be one of those people who knows everyone and everything that goes on in Rurutu. His name is Teiti.

teiti.tavita@gmail.com

Actually, I did not book with them beforehand. I booked with a different outfit, but their local rep who was supposed to take us out was, to put it mildly, irresponsible and unresponsive. As a result, our first day out was with Vaitumu's (our lodging) own operation, and while we loved their service and their boat, they were unreliable: on our second day there, they said they couldn't take us out.

Teiti learned of our plight and we were able to go out everyday without a hitch that afternoon and the rest of the days we were there. It is a family-run operation and they have multple boats - that is also a plus.

Should you not get a prompt enough response, I can also suggest emailing Gisele, his aunt (I think). She has a place available for lodging. When I could not find lodging at Vaitumu for a couple of people in my group, I emailed her and she was quite responsive; so I am guessing that, if necessary, she can get you in contact with Teiti. Her email address is:

tavitagisele@gmail.com

I am one of those who books trips close to a year in advance, if not more, so I am not the person to ask about how far in advance, altho the fact that Teiti was able to easily accommodate us on the spot suggests that it doesn't need to be very far in advance. On the other hand, traveling to French Polynesia is never an inexpensive proposition, and it would suck to get there and twiddle one's thumbs. I like the peace of mind of going there with something in hand.

If you have further questions or want more details, feel free to ask. I often get accused of writing too much (in fact, I already did), so I did not get very deeply into the nitty-gritty of the above.
 
Thank you so much for the reply. Not too much info at all. These days I too like to book in advance and am feeling the pinch with it only 9-10 months in advance. Travel planning in a new place I'm never quite sure if I'm crazy early or I need to get the bookings done yesterday.
 
Since I hardly do Facebook, I don't know what they have listed for email address. But this is the one that I have for THE guy who coordinates pretty much everything on land, including bookings. He seems to be one of those people who knows everyone and everything that goes on in Rurutu. His name is Teiti.

teiti.tavita@gmail.com

Actually, I did not book with them beforehand. I booked with a different outfit, but their local rep who was supposed to take us out was, to put it mildly, irresponsible and unresponsive. As a result, our first day out was with Vaitumu's (our lodging) own operation, and while we loved their service and their boat, they were unreliable: on our second day there, they said they couldn't take us out.

Teiti learned of our plight and we were able to go out everyday without a hitch that afternoon and the rest of the days we were there. It is a family-run operation and they have multple boats - that is also a plus.

Should you not get a prompt enough response, I can also suggest emailing Gisele, his aunt (I think). She has a place available for lodging. When I could not find lodging at Vaitumu for a couple of people in my group, I emailed her and she was quite responsive; so I am guessing that, if necessary, she can get you in contact with Teiti. Her email address is:

tavitagisele@gmail.com

I am one of those who books trips close to a year in advance, if not more, so I am not the person to ask about how far in advance, altho the fact that Teiti was able to easily accommodate us on the spot suggests that it doesn't need to be very far in advance. On the other hand, traveling to French Polynesia is never an inexpensive proposition, and it would suck to get there and twiddle one's thumbs. I like the peace of mind of going there with something in hand.

If you have further questions or want more details, feel free to ask. I often get accused of writing too much (in fact, I already did), so I did not get very deeply into the nitty-gritty of the above.
Who complains? Rhetorical question only. 😄

Write all that you want and more!

Break it into separate posts, if that helps you.

We appreciate your experience and that you are willing to share with us.
 
Thanks. Actually, it's been very civil here.

I was referring to comments from relatives and friends in reaction to lengthy emails that I sent them. <sigh> "A prophet is not without honor except in his hometown and among his relatives and in his own household."
 

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