porgyhunter
Contributor
The reason I say exiting is obvious....If you enter in big surf, you deserve to get the S%&t kicked out of ya. That being said, how many poor soots have come up ready to finish their dive only to find the fun only to begin? Surf has picked up during your dive and now you have to SURF on to the rocks to get out. You can sure ride a swell in...crash, bang, ting off the rocks. Then try and hold your ground as the water recedes. Only to be knocked ass over tea kettle by the next wave. Gettin too Old for that kinda crap!