Rigging for slinging a stage bottle

[Keith.M]

Hi all,

I am looking to extend some dives by carrying a stage bottle.

Not yet looking at doubles or full side mount.

Current back gas is either steel LP 80 or HP 100.

I understand that the slung bottle would be best to be an AL 80.

I do have one, but right now it is in need of hydro and vis.

So I am considering slinging a steel 72 - AA 2250.

I have come across some good examples in the past as to rigging up the bottle, but as of now I have only been able to find examples of ready made slings.

I am wanting to put this together with two bolt snaps, an 8" SS hoseclamp and either something like paracord or some smaller nylon webbing and some plastic tubing. With some bungee cord for holding down the hoses.

I have seen examples before but can't find them!

Any help pointing me in the right direction will be appreciated!

 

[uncfnp]

Keith, is this what you are looking for?...
DIR-diver.com - Stagebottle rigging

 

[dreamdive]

Keith,
go to the AddHelium.com website and look at their stage bottle rigging kits. They are not that expensive.
Also, you mentioned that you think that an ALU 80 is the best one. We don't use ALU 80's to sling our bail-outs but ALU 72's. They are neutrally bouyant. If you really decide to go with your 80, you might want to consider putting a 2 pound weight at the bottom of your tank.
Another recommendation is to add a shut-off valve to your bail-out regulator. This way you can keep the bottle on and charged but do not risk loosing gas in an unrecognized free-flow situation.

Happy Diving.

Claudia

 

[decompression]

Do some rock bottom cald on some planned dives and see what you need for gas capacity. You may find an AL40 will work. Also, if you later decide to go into deco dives the AL40 is the tank of choice.

 

[Keith.M]

Keith, is this what you are looking for?...
DIR-diver.com - Stagebottle rigging

Yes! This was the one I was not finding. Thank you!

Thank you as well Claudia, i will look at those.

 

[kwinter]

Another recommendation is to add a shut-off valve to your bail-out regulator. This way you can keep the bottle on and charged but do not risk loosing gas in an unrecognized free-flow situation.

Remember to put an OPV into the first stage if you put a shutoff on the second stage. Otherwise IP creep will have no where to go except to explode a hose.

 

[Rich Keller]

Why not use the hose clamp on the bottom of the tank and a round or figure 8 long splice around the valve?

 

[Keith.M]

I believe that it is done this way, because the loop fits over the valve and then when the strap is pulled down and secured with the clamp, it can't come back off over the valve. But when you loosen the clamp, then you can pull the strap up and over the valve.

Why not use the hose clamp on the bottom of the tank and a round or figure 8 long splice around the valve?

View attachment 190188

 

[Rich Keller]

I believe that it is done this way, because the loop fits over the valve and then when the strap is pulled down and secured with the clamp, it can't come back off over the valve. But when you loosen the clamp, then you can pull the strap up and over the valve.

I was thinking in terms of splicing the line around the valve and just leaving it there. I have seen tanks that have metal rings around them when not in use for side mounting so I did not know there was a need to remove it from the valve.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

Keith,
go to the AddHelium.com website and look at their stage bottle rigging kits. They are not that expensive.
Also, you mentioned that you think that an ALU 80 is the best one. We don't use ALU 80's to sling our bail-outs but ALU 72's. They are neutrally bouyant. If you really decide to go with your 80, you might want to consider putting a 2 pound weight at the bottom of your tank.
Another recommendation is to add a shut-off valve to your bail-out regulator. This way you can keep the bottle on and charged but do not risk loosing gas in an unrecognized free-flow situation.

Happy Diving.

Claudia

How common is it to use an inline shut off valve for a stage bottle, or for independent doubles, or even sidemount?

I understand the reasoning (preventing loss of air if the 2nd stage leaks or freeflows), but just wonder about the wisdom of placing a restriction / possible failure point between the 1st and 2nd stage, which also eliminates the downstream "over-pressure valve" function of a 2nd stage in the event of IP creep or HP seat failure in the 1st stage?

Just curious what others think.

Best wishes.