Yemen Update - Trip Report Sanaa/Socotra 10-19 Nov 2011

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nipi

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Location
Grand Cayman
# of dives
My dive buddy & I just returned from a week in Socotra with a day in Sanaa at either end of our stay. All our local arrangements were made by Abduljameel of Socotra Eco Tours (Socotra Eco-tours - Tourist guide on Socotra specialised in eco-tourism e-mail:- holidays@socotra-eco-tours.com tel:- +967 770689762).

We flew Egyptair from London to Sanaa changing planes in Cairo. At check in in Cairo you will need to show a copy of your Yemeni visa. Our visas were obtained by Abduljameel – we emailed him a copy of our passports & wired the fees to him & once he received the visas he emailed copies to us. On arrival at Sanaa airport we gave the copies to the visas desk & they posted the original visas in our passports. Abduljameel had arranged for us to be met at the airport by Akmed of Friendship Group (Friendship Travel & Tourism) as our guide/driver & one of the officials phoned him as he waited outside to confirm that we were with his agency – arriving independently without this I believe you would not be allowed in. In Sanaa we stayed at the Arabia Felix (Arabia Felix Hotel, Sana'a) one of the few if not the only hotel still open in the old town. We walked around the souk with Akmed & ate at the Al Shaibani restaurant. The traffic in Sanaa is terrible – worse now that there are so many army check points. Parts of the city around University Square & Tahrir Square are blocked off to all traffic. The power goes off at night but the hotel had a generator use for part of it. Akmed is a conscientious English speaking guide with a thorough knowledge of which parts of the city are ok & which to avoid. On our return through Sanaa Akmed had got us travel permits so we were able to visit Shibam/Kawkaban & Wadi Dahr.

We flew Felix Air (tickets arranged by Abduljameel) from Sanaa to Socotra with a stop on the ground in Mukalla. Our bags were overweight but they waived the excess fee. On Socotra we stayed 5 nights at Dihamri eco lodge, 1 night at Ditwah & 1 night at Adeebs near Hadibo. Tents are provided but we slept outside. We did 6 days diving at Dihamri, Erissel, Adho, Rosh, Quisalaya & Shuub & 2 land trips to Homhil & the Dixsum plateau. We had a guide (Sammy), driver (Mohamed) & dive guide (Nassem). Food was plentiful – bread, cheese, jam, rice, pasta, beans, curried vegetables, grilled fish & goat. Plenty of tea, water & soft drinks – no alcohol. The dives were mainly on sand flats at say 60 feet covered with coral heads. Being relatively undived the coral condition is superb with an incredible amount of fish life – nurse & whitetipped sharks, skates, reys, eels, turtles & schools & schools of fish – the Shuub wreck in particular was just covered in blankets of fish. Generally, 15 minute boats rides to the sites in fishing boats. Drift dives no buoys. Visibility around 50 feet. Although a limited amount of spare equipment is available, best to bring your own. 5 mm wetsuits. Some of the best diving I have done in the Red Sea & Arabian Sea (comparing with Egypt, Eritrea, Maldives, Mauritius).

Socotra is a wonderful place both above & below the water. Even if you do not travel through Sanaa it is possible to get there by flying from Sharjah in the U.A.E. via Mukalla. Go now – you will not regret it.
 
Wow...this is definitely a location that does not get much publicity. Thanks for the detailed write up and being a "pioneer" of sorts!
 
Braver than me for heading off to Yemen
 
nipi, great to read of a report from Yemen and hear of the seemingly great diving you found there, if you have any pics posted online, please provide a link or post a few in here.

As a matter of interest was your trip there just for 'tourism', and pretty easy to get visa or did you need a work sponsor/invite from Yemen to get your visa ?

cheers
 
nipi, great to read of a report from Yemen and hear of the seemingly great diving you found there, if you have any pics posted online, please provide a link or post a few in here.

As a matter of interest was your trip there just for 'tourism', and pretty easy to get visa or did you need a work sponsor/invite from Yemen to get your visa ?

cheers

No pics sorry. Abdujameel of Socotra Eco Tours arranged our (tourist) visas for us & arranged for us to be met at Sanaa airport. I am not sure whether you would be able to get a visas without using a travel agency &, even if you did, I read of one vistor who arrived at Sanaa airport with a visa a couple of months ago but was sent back to Cairo on the returning flight (presumably because he had no local agency meeting him).
 
Some friends of mine from the UN dived there back in 96, I regret not joining them but interesting news that flights are available from Sharjah.

Simon we should do it before it gets crazier over there, I have only been to Yemen illegally down on the border with Oman and Saudi.
 
Nipi,


Am planning a similar trip to socotra with Eco-tours in December and your trip report has been really useful.
Was wondering if you could provide a few more details of your trip:


1. What sites did you dive? Any must dives or sites to miss?
2. How was the visibility/currents? I've read that March/April is supposed to be the beat time.
3. Did you rent their equipment? Should I bring more than just my wetsuit?
4. Was there much to do after the dives each day?


Thanks.
 
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