Diving Mozambique ... seeking info

[MXGratefulDiver]

Don Silcock's images have inspired me ... I have an upcoming 60th birthday trip to plan (February 2012) and have been trying to think of a place to go.

There will be four of us along ... all experienced divers ranging in age from 60 to 65. Three of us will be traveling from Seattle (USA) and the fourth will be traveling from northern Zambia. So from a logistical standpoint, Mozambique seems like a pretty good location.

I've checked out the scuba sites for Tofo, which seem quite OK ... except that they appear to limit their diving to just two dives per day. I'd like to arrange something with a bit more diving than that ... we're used to at least three if not four or five dives per day when we go on these trips. If the diving's really that good, I want to make the most of it. So I'm looking for a dive op that will at least give me three ... perhaps with an option for four.

Whale sharks have been very high on my "bucket list" for some time, and Tofo seems to be the place to see them ... and early February appears to be the right time of year. So that would count for a lot.

What I'm looking for is recommendations, and any information I can get from someone who's been there. We're not fancy people, Cheng's currently living in a village that doesn't even have electricity ... so we only need "comfortable" accommodations. Mostly we're interested in the diving. If there's someplace besides Tofo that you like better, let's hear about it. I've never been to Africa, and would like to make some reasonably informed choices.

We're thinking of a two-week trip. Given two days on either end for travel, that's looking at 9 to 10 days of diving ... or possibly a day or two less than that if there's something else interesting to do.

Any and all input is appreciated ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[AndyT]

Can't really think of anywhere but Tofo for Whalesharks, it is certainly the best.

Part of the reason that they only offer two dives a day is that the wind generally picks up in the afternoon and wipes oit the diving, the other is that the run down to some of the popular dive sites is sometimes around 45 min each way and eats into the time available.

Can't speak for Ponto da Ouro down south, but I don't think Whalesharks are seen as often as they are in Tofo.

 

[Deefstes]

I agree with AndyT, Tofo is definitely a better place to go for Whalesharks than Ponta do Ouro but they're not guaranteed there either. I have personally never dived at Tofo but I have dived at Pomene which is not far south from Tofo and in 5 dives we didn't see any Whalesharks either.

If you can live with the lower chance of Whalesharks I'd recommend Sodwana (norhtern east coast of South Africa) as well which is really world class. Two dives per day is the norm but we have often done 3 dives per day at Sodwana. The added advantage of Sodwana is that it puts you within easy reach of some nature reserves where you can do a bit of Safari. Tofo is fairly isolated and while it has a lovely beach vibe, there isn't really much else to do.

Anyway, just wanted to put Sodwana on your radar as well. In my view, the diving in central Mozambique is no better that Sodwana.

Let me know if you have any specific questions. I'll be glad to help where I can.

 

[MXGratefulDiver]

Thanks Deefstes ... I was hoping you'd weigh in. Plans are just beginning, and destinations are still very flexible. One thing I'm concerned about is boat entries/exits. We're all pretty good divers, but older folks ... and one in particular has knees that just don't work as well as they used to. From what I've read, most dive ops do beach entries in RIBs, and the diving conditions can be a bit rugged. That may influence our decision if it is the case. Of more concern is getting back onto the boat after a dive.

I've also noticed on a couple websites that dive ops put some pretty stringent time limitations on dives (30-45 minutes, typically). That's pretty short ... is there a reason, and is that the norm? Our dives at other destinations we've been to typically fall into the 60-70 minute range ... even with AL80's.

Also, does anyone in that part of the world use nitrox? Being older folks, we have a preference for nitrox over air when it's available.

Any info from someone who dives there is truly valued ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[AndyT]

I stand to be corrected but as far as I know most operators North of East London in SA do beach launches. There just aren't any / many piers or jetties available.

When I was last in Tofo in 2007 they did offer Nitrox, we certainly made use of it.

Ditto Deefstes on Sodwana.

 

[Deefstes]

One thing I'm concerned about is boat entries/exits. We're all pretty good divers, but older folks ... and one in particular has knees that just don't work as well as they used to. From what I've read, most dive ops do beach entries in RIBs, and the diving conditions can be a bit rugged. That may influence our decision if it is the case. Of more concern is getting back onto the boat after a dive.

True, there are no jetty entries on the east coast and the conditions can be more rugged than some other places but I wouldn't say that its too rough for anyone with only a slight sense of adventure.

I'm not sure exactly how bad "knees that don't work as well as they used to" are but I'd imagine the part that would put most strain on the knees are probably jumping from the shallows into the RIB before the launch and sitting on the pontoon if the ride out to or back from the reef is very bumpy (which is rare) - neither of which I think is particularly intense.

Getting back onto the RIB after the dive is a matter pulling yourself up with your arms while finning until you flop over the side. There will always be plenty of hands on the boat who can help you up and as long as you don't mind an ungraceful boarding (no-one does this gracefully) you don't have much to worry about. In fact, I prefer getting onto a RIB than climbing up the ladder at the back of a boat with your full kit on your back, especially when there's a bit of a swell.

I've also noticed on a couple websites that dive ops put some pretty stringent time limitations on dives (30-45 minutes, typically). That's pretty short ... is there a reason, and is that the norm? Our dives at other destinations we've been to typically fall into the 60-70 minute range ... even with AL80's.

If a dive operator limits the dives to 30 minutes you should tell them to go to hell. That's ridiculous. That said, the typical turn point for dives around here is usually 50 minutes or 50 bar which, I agree, is shorter than I feel it should be.

I think the reason they operate on this principle is that longer dives means less to time for the operators to fit in that 3rd or 4th launch for the morning. Like AndyT said, the wind often picks up towards the afternoon so the operators try to fit in all the dives in the morning.

Another reason is that you'll be likely to have some less experienced divers on your boat as well who's gas won't last much longer than 50 minutes anyway and for them to be sitting on the boat for another 20 minutes might be a bit unpleasant. I do think though that they should just grin and bare it. On my second dive at Sodwana I had to surface early because I was an air hog of note. While I was sitting on the boat mad at the others for still being able to enjoy a great dive, a Whaleshark showed up and I got to snorkel with it while the other plonkers were still on the reef.

I have to say though, the operator that I usually dive with at Sodwana is quite flexible and if you tell them that you'd prefer to do 60 or even 70 minute dives, they'll do their best to accommodate you. Also, if you want to do 3 (or even 4) dives on a day, they'll try to wangle things so that you can be on as many launces as possible for the day. I have done 4 dives in a day but I would be lying to you if I told you that was the norm.

Also, does anyone in that part of the world use nitrox? Being older folks, we have a preference for nitrox over air when it's available.

In Sodwana Nitrox is readily available. Not all operators have the facilities to blend their own but all of them have access to it. Depending on the operator you end up with it might just mean that you don't get to specify the mix you want (you just take the 32% or whatever they have available) and you might have to wait a bit longer for your cylinders.

The operator I usually go with has the biggest compressor and filling facilities in Sodwana and will fill your cylinders to exactly the mix that you specify.

In central Mozambique some operators have Nitrox and some don't. I have only dived at Pomene where there is no Nitrox available but I think most operators in the Inhmabane area should have Nitrox. Make very sure to check with them when you're doing your homework.

Hope that helps.

 

[MXGratefulDiver]

Got some recommendations in Sodwana I can take a look at? This is in the very early stages of planning, and I'm quite flexible on locations. Having local knowledge is invaluable in making good choices ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[Deefstes]

Got some recommendations in Sodwana I can take a look at? This is in the very early stages of planning, and I'm quite flexible on locations. Having local knowledge is invaluable in making good choices ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

I'd recommend Triton Dive Charters. Nice comfortable dive camp, fun people, and very experienced diving staff, probably the most experienced in the region. If you're lucky, the owner, Peter Timm, will regale you with some of his exploits (finding the first Coelacanths etc.) This guy is a legend and he's been around the block.

I would NOT recommend Coral Divers - unless you are also a group of idiots who don't give a rat's rear side for the well being of the reef and sea life.

There are a good number of dive operators in Sodwana, you might also want to consider Reef Teach but, my vote would certainly go to Triton.

 

[Wayne_Potgieter]

I'd recommend Triton Dive Charters. Nice comfortable dive camp, fun people, and very experienced diving staff, probably the most experienced in the region. If you're lucky, the owner, Peter Timm, will regale you with some of his exploits (finding the first Coelacanths etc.) This guy is a legend and he's been around the block.

I would NOT recommend Coral Divers - unless you are also a group of idiots who don't give a rat's rear side for the well being of the reef and sea life.

There are a good number of dive operators in Sodwana, you might also want to consider Reef Teach but, my vote would certainly go to Triton.

Deefstes has hit the nail on the head.

Sodwana is fantastic, more to do when not diving. To be fair, you could take a drive from sodwana to ponto d oura (south Mozambique) in less than a few hours if you want to vary your location a bit.

No Nitrox in Ponta, but plenty in Sodwana.

I have used Sodwana bay lodge as my dive charter, and havent had any problems. But i think i might consider Triton on my next trip based on the above.

 

[vattern]

Having just come back from Sodwana, I can second Wayne's suggestion of Sodwana Bay Lodge SC. Ben and the crew are truly professional.

Sodwana Bay Lodge Diving Centre