Wing size???
- Thread starter frogdrvr
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
cool_hardware52
Contributor
frogdrvr:
Wing Lift is more about exposure suit than tank.
If diving wet, roll up the suit, throw it in the pool and add weight 'till it's nuetral.
If diving Dry, put on DS with the undies you use, get in the pool, no other gear. Vent till you have a "normal" amount of air in the suit.
Grab a weight bag and add weight 'till you are nuetral.
Either amount of weight represents the max you can loose, or need be compensated for.
Wetsuits will be somewhat positive down to ~165 FSW.
If you suffer a total flood of a DS, you can't loose more than the valuse of the test weight.
As long as you are neutral at the surface with no gas in your wing these calc's are valid.
It takes a hugh thick wetsuit, or a DS with thick undies on a big guy before you need more than 30 lbs in my experience.
Regards,
Tobin
lamont
Contributor
i just posted this a little while ago in a different thread:
"The 40# wing has roughly the same profile as the 30# wing, but for a newbie diver it allows much more room for error in weighting. Until you learn about weighting, I think you're better off with 10# or so overengineering in the wing lift department.
"That isn't a DIR answer, but from experience, I've done some dumb weighting mistakes while learning how to dive, and the 40# wing has given me latitude to be stupid and not wind up dead in 4 fsw of water..."
YMMV
I'm also assuming cold water drysuit in that response.
"The 40# wing has roughly the same profile as the 30# wing, but for a newbie diver it allows much more room for error in weighting. Until you learn about weighting, I think you're better off with 10# or so overengineering in the wing lift department.
"That isn't a DIR answer, but from experience, I've done some dumb weighting mistakes while learning how to dive, and the 40# wing has given me latitude to be stupid and not wind up dead in 4 fsw of water..."
YMMV
I'm also assuming cold water drysuit in that response.
Personally, I have an #18 wing I've used for warm water diving. With how little my #30 wing is inflated at the surface, I'm thinking of taking it out with my cold water gear sometime just to see how it goes. Mainly out of curiosity.
- Messages
- 1,410
- Reaction score
- 2
- # of dives
The wing should provide enough lift to float the rig without the diver in it.
cool_hardware52:
cool_hardware52
Contributor
Dan Gibson:
I agree. Thanks Dan.
With a single tank, even a large steel tank, it is almost always the potential loss of buoyancy from the exposure suit that governs, not the weight of the rig.
The possible exception is when one does not use a weight belt, but adds additional weight to the rig.
In doubles, it's far more likely that the weight of the rig will exceed the possible loss of buoyancy from the exposure suit.
Tobin
cool_hardware52
Contributor
frogdrvr:
Buoyancy compensators (BC's) compensate for a change in buoyancy.
Does the buoyancy of a lean body change more than say a not so lean one (like mine :11: ) ?
Pretty much only your exposure suit changes in buoyancy.
A lean, float like a brick, body will affect total weighting, but should have little or no impact on the lift requirements for single tank diving.
Remember this is all based on being neutral at the surface with no gas in your wing.
If you start to add gear, tanks, tools, scooters, whatever and that requires that you gas up your wing to be neutral at the surface, the equation changes. This more commonly accompanies the transition to doubles.
Regards,
Tobin
Similar threads
