Want to buy my own tank but have some Q?

[Jason McK]

I've been reading this area of ScubaBoard for a couple of days now and there is a lot of great info.
What I figured is Steel tanks are negatively buoyant while Aluminium are Positive.
I've only ever dove with aluminium and have at times been under weight for an empty tank.
For a total noob Diver I'm wondering if my best bet is to just add some weight and get aluminium Tank. The cost is sure pointing me in that direction.
But is there any other +/- I can expect if I go with aluminium?

Thanks
Jason

[xSandman3]

Aluminum is definitely the cheaper way to go, but after diving for awhile, you're going to want steel, especially if you do a lot of shore diving. In the long run, steel is worth every penny..wish I'd come to that conclusion before buying 4 aluminum 80s.

[Jason McK]

Thanks xSandman3, I'll check out the Steels

J

[spectrum]

I've been reading this area of ScubaBoard for a couple of days now and there is a lot of great info.
What I figured is Steel tanks are negatively buoyant while Aluminium are Positive.
I've only ever dove with aluminium and have at times been under weight for an empty tank.
For a total noob Diver I'm wondering if my best bet is to just add some weight and get aluminium Tank. The cost is sure pointing me in that direction.
But is there any other +/- I can expect if I go with aluminium?

Thanks
Jason

A Pressed steel E7-80 can be easilly had for right around $200. In terms of diving gear not that much more than you will pay for most new AL-80s and you won't need to add weight, in fact you'll get rid of some in more ways than one.

Take a look at this post I made the other day:
http://www.scubaboard.com/showpost.php?p=1191538&postcount=16
And if you have any questions PM me, IMO it's a slam dunk.

Pete

[wcl]

FWIW, here is a link where you can find quantitative tank data (specifications and buoyancy characteristics):

http://www.scubadiving.com/gear/tanks_and_weights/a_consumer%27s_guide_to_scuba_tanks/

For my part, I went with AL80s, assorted reasons that make sense to me (but nothing definititve enough to necessarily drive everyone's judgment ... this call I think is rather dependent on the diver and the diving circumstances).

Cheers,
Walter

[crpntr133]

FWIW, here is a link where you can find quantitative tank data (specifications and buoyancy characteristics):

http://www.scubadiving.com/gear/tanks_and_weights/a_consumer%27s_guide_to_scuba_tanks/

For my part, I went with AL80s, assorted reasons that make sense to me (but nothing definititve enough to necessarily drive everyone's judgment ... this call I think is rather dependent on the diver and the diving circumstances).

Cheers,
Walter

One thing to keep in mind with the HP steel is...will you get a full fill. Probably not. The PST tanks stands more of a chance but unless you have a good fill station you will probably find short fills are the norm. That is one reason why I ended up getting the AL80's.
Yes, I liked all the added "improvements" but didn't think I was going to gain much when I was getting a partial fill most of the time.

You can also pick up used AL80's for around $75+-.

[spectrum]

One thing to keep in mind with the HP steel is...will you get a full fill. Probably not. The PST tanks stands more of a chance but unless you have a good fill station you will probably find short fills are the norm. That is one reason why I ended up getting the AL80's.
Yes, I liked all the added "improvements" but didn't think I was going to gain much when I was getting a partial fill most of the time.

You can also pick up used AL80's for around $75+-.

I'd extend that concern to any tank. My LDS owner also dives HP steel and does a real nice job for me even while I wait. Another place a few towns away sets the fill whip for 3442 and lets it go till it stops and loosing 500 PSI is the norm though I only go there as a last resort and if I do I try to leave them for a shile and request a top-off. As HP gets out there more shops will catch on.

Meanwhile I keep starting dives with AL-80 divers who get in the water and proclaim "I have 2500 PSI" . Some shops won't push a warm aluminum beyond rated pressure (despite the temperature/pressure rating) where they are less fearfull of doing so on steel.

In other words it all depends on who, what, where and when.

On the E7-100 and larger it's even less of a concern since in a circle of AL-80 divers even a substanbtial short fill leaves you well ahead on gas as well as weight and bouyancy properties.

If the short fill concern is a deal breaker then the logical option is low pressure steel. A very important factor IMO is that the cylinder be one that never goes positive on bouyancy. LP steels are considerably cheaper and can last almost forever. Finding a used LP steel cylinder is also much more likely.

Pete

[av8er23]

I am also considering getting a tank. Is the hydo the only inspection required on the tanks? How often does it have to be inspected? About how much does it cost? Is there any reason to buy a new tank? Are all of the fasners on the top of the tank the same? Do they usually last the life of the tank?

[pickens_46929]

I've been reading this area of ScubaBoard for a couple of days now and there is a lot of great info.
What I figured is Steel tanks are negatively buoyant while Aluminium are Positive.
I've only ever dove with aluminium and have at times been under weight for an empty tank.
For a total noob Diver I'm wondering if my best bet is to just add some weight and get aluminium Tank. The cost is sure pointing me in that direction.
But is there any other +/- I can expect if I go with aluminium?

Thanks
Jason

Ok, so let me add my $0.02 as well...

There are "neutral" AL-80's which are neither positive or negative when empty. These are great. If you don't get a neutral AL-80, then get a trim pocket for your BC strap and add the 4# you'll need at the end of the dive. I did and it works great.

You pay about $100 - $120 for AL-80's... add $10 or so for neutral AL-80's... and $180 to $200 for steel LP 85's and 95's... http://www.techdivinglimited.com has a special.

Now for the Aluminum vs. Steele decision, in cold water with my dry suit on... I really wish I had steele tanks. Borrowed one this year from a friend and with cold water gear (wet or dry) it's the way to go to get weight off your belt.

So now I'm figuring out how to buy one or two more tanks... steel LP's... :)

Dave

[BrianS]

Hydro's are every 5 yrs and average about $25. VIP's are once a year and average about $15-$20. Not sure what you mean by fasteners, unless you mean the Valve itself.


I am also considering getting a tank. Is the hydo the only inspection required on the tanks? How often does it have to be inspected? About how much does it cost? Is there any reason to buy a new tank? Are all of the fasners on the top of the tank the same? Do they usually last the life of the tank?

[spabula]

I just bought a brand new Faber LP steel 108 for $200 with a DIN valve. I like it better then an AL 80. It is much better diving with a drysuit on with this tank.

[crpntr133]

Personally if I was going to go steel I would go LP or PST and not have to wonder if I was going to get a full fill. Several of my DB's have HP steels and the fill issue is major with them. With my AL-80 I have never gotten a short fill. Most are 3,000-3,200 range.
Someplaces charge morefor a HP fill..$3-$5. Don't know if that is the norm but I have seen several LDS that charge more.

[O'Malley]

...been following this thread beacuse I was undecided...steel vs. aluminum; in the end, it was steel...picked up 2 PST E7-100's this afternoon!

[offroaddiver]

One of the questionswhen I was considering buying a tank was the difference between renting a tank and getting a fill (money wise). There are some places that charge per fill *not a cubic foot charge and others that charge by cubic foot. I have borrowed a friend's tank and used it down to 500 psi then used his air tool adapter to blow out my gear and help dry out the wet suit and then filled it. It cost me around 4$ extra for the cubic foot fill than the LDS charges per tank.

[spectrum]

One of the questionswhen I was considering buying a tank was the difference between renting a tank and getting a fill (money wise). There are some places that charge per fill *not a cubic foot charge and others that charge by cubic foot. I have borrowed a friend's tank and used it down to 500 psi then used his air tool adapter to blow out my gear and help dry out the wet suit and then filled it. It cost me around 4$ extra for the cubic foot fill than the LDS charges per tank.

$4 extra because you took it down below 500 PSI or whatever that means in CF for the unspecified tank?

What are they getting for a "standard" filll?

$4 is about the going rate for any air fill around here.

Pete

[mossym]

Personally if I was going to go steel I would go LP or PST and not have to wonder if I was going to get a full fill. Several of my DB's have HP steels and the fill issue is major with them. With my AL-80 I have never gotten a short fill. Most are 3,000-3,200 range.
.
even witrh 3200 in an e7100 you're getting more than 90cft of gas...and thats on a short fill...i'd take that over an al80 anyday, then throw in the bouyancy characteristics and i'm sold...

if your buddies are consistenly getting short fills, there must be a shop around you somewhere that can fill them...

and OT, but this was my 1000 post!!!