Re-phrased Questions

Ok I posted these questions before, but because of the wording I think they were misleading.

#1 I have one of the older 55# Halcyon wings, but I am pretty sure it does not lift 55#s. I am currious if anyone knows what the real lift of this wing is. My buddy just bought one of the new 55s and his is quite a bit bigger. He put it in the pool and it actually lifted something like 62 lbs. I know with my twin steels, drysuit and a 9lb plate I sit pretty low in the water.

#2 I have Apeks and Scuba Pro din first stages. What I need is a good source (along with part numbers) to order the o-ring that seals it to the tank valve. The Apeks appears to be smaller than the SP.

#3 I went to Divers-Supply to order another manifold and all they had on there web site was the 200 bar. Are they the only source for a good deal on manifolds? Or if someone has the time to call them and find out if they still have the 300 bar manifold I would appreciate it. The time difference between me and the states is a pain in the butt sometimes.

Thanks Scrappy

1) The lift on the older wings, from what I was told, is more like 40 45lbs.

2) I can't help there, as I get all of my o-rings for everything I need, from work.

3) Divers Supply does still have the 300 bar manifold. I was just in the headquarters last weekend, as it is only about 40minutes from my house, and they had them in their display case. No telling how many they had in the back or at other stores.

Quoted lift figures for wings are usually pretty inaccurate. You should take it to the pool with a few weights

The following is a quote from the WKPP website where George Irvine has his equipment list.

-WINGS - HALCYON "55#" , WHICH ARE REALLY ABOUT 40 . HALCYON "38#" FOR AL
80'S.

I just wanted to say thanks for all the help and responses I have received over thae last couple of months. Everyone has been very helpful and forthcoming with advice on diving doubles. I am sure I will have more questions later, but for now I am good.

Thanks
Scrappy

I called DS a few weeks ago, they told me 90 day backorder on 300 BAR monifolds.

Tom

I still don't understand the rationale of putting 300 bar valves on 200 bar tanks. In my eyes (and I wear glasses), the only real differences are aesthetics (the 300 bar looks better) and versatility (the 200 bar is more versatile). I don't see any safety reasons whatsoever to using the 300 bar. Niether can back out under pressure, either valve can deal with higher pressures and the "break point" on impact would be the smaller Din fitting to regulator interface and not the Din fitting to tank interface. I don't even see any additional entanglement hazzards.

Seriously, honestly... am I really missing something that basic here? And if it's just aesthetics, I can handle that. We all like to buy stuff that "looks cool" even though we rarely admit it. This is NOT a troll... and I will remain silent and just listen to the replies to prove that. (Unless you ask me for clarifications, etc...). The reason I am asking is that I am about to persue cavern/cave and want to get the right stuff for ME. I will be buying manifolds and more tanks in the not too distant future, and if I am really, really missing the boat, I really, really want to know.

Even as I write this, I see that maybe it's because of the overpressurization thing... You just don't want the possibility of a yoke valve on a tank that has 3500-4000 psi in it. Is that it? So if I trust myself to keep track of pressures (and I even trust yokes to 3500 anyway) would that mitigate that issue??? Clue me in here folks.

I prefer to use 300 because the threads are fully enclosed/protected with a 300. I use 200s on my stages only because I wanted top quality valves and scubapro was what was available at the time. If scubapro made 300s I would have bought those.

Versatility is not a factor as if I have my tanks, I have my regs, everything is DIN. I don't buy yoke equipment and only use it if I have no choice. I don't even know where the yoke inserts to my 200 BAR valves are, nor much care.

300 is also an extra safety factor for obvious reasons although 200 is likely to be fine.

Tom

ps- Plus, yea, 300 looks cooler

I also have 200 bar, convertable valves on my two SP 72s. I never really gave it much thought until a buddy of mine pointed out how the salt water would almost imeadiatly build deposits up on the exposed din threads of the reg. I rinse the snot out of my gear, but I also started to notice a little more to clean on the 200, and since the 300 is the same price then why not. I agree about the safety part. @00 is not the weak link, the reg would break first. Just what we have noticed.

Scrappy