Sherwood Blizzard Regulator 2005 Model

[MikeyJay]

I am thinking about buying a Sherwood Blizzard 2005 model off the web. I am new to diving and was wondering what anyone thoughts were on this choice of regulator. I do plan on diving a lot near and around Michigan. I also was reading that this is nice reg for cold water diving (Michigan). So if anyone has any thoughts, ideas please let me know. I am looking for something durable and reliable, and that will work for shallow and deep as well as warm and cold-water dives. Also when you buy a brand new regulator from a dive store over the internet, does the regulator need to be serviced before use? Or do they come serviced when you buy them?

[spectrum]

Here is a link to a post I made last month detailing my purchase decision. As you will read my only real concern was the ease of breathing concerns.
http://www.scubaboard.com/showpost.php?p=1150519&postcount=3

Just this afternoon I made my deepest yet dive spending time at 78 feet. The one thing I did notice that I had no ease of breathing issues whatsoever. It was also a dark and chilly 44F and everything was nice. In fact my buddy for this dive was using a Sherwood Brute and she had no issues whatsoever!

My wife was with me on a second dive to 60 feet, her deepest yet and while she is probably not as stong respiration wise she had no problem and did not notice any degradation what-so-ever.

I don't discount the reports that at some point it becomes an issue but I'm more confident than ever that these will serve our needs for a good while to come.

Any factory fresh regulator should be ready to dive providing you are up to making up the hose connections. Some dealers may put a new unit on a flow bench to check things out pre-sale, not likey online. If you have a problem or even suspect one you're playing the mail game instead of diving. Have you visted a local Sherwood dealer or 2 and put your cards on the table? You may find the $$ close enough make buying local and getting local service a no brainer.

Pete

[darkstar]

I have an Apeks ATX200 on the right post of my doubles, and my (5 year) old Sherwood Blizzard on the left post (backup). There is a noticable difference in the performance of the two regs, with the Apeks being very much easier to breath at 80 feet or more.

Since an Apeks DS4/ATX50 is in the same price range at the Blizzard, I would buy it over the Sherwood any day.

Performance aside, the Blizzard has been a trouble free reg in ever all water temps (35F to 80F) and depths up to 130feet.

[MikeyJay]

Someone sent me this email: The Blizzard is a nice regulator but if you are going to get into any tech diving you may want to reconsider. I will look into the Apeks, I do plan on getting into tech diving in the future.

[rescuediver009]

If you are looking for a regulator that will grow with you and that you will never have to replace, I would look at the Apeks. They have a lifetime warranty, but be careful that the place where you buy it is an authorized dealer. You will never trade it in...

[MikeyJay]

Are local dive shops the only dealers in Apeks regulators? I haven't found any sites on the Internet that sell them. I was also wondering what the difference between the Apeks TX50 and the ATX50. It looks like the TX50 is a backup Octo regulator, from the picture on Apeks website. But I also noticed that they make a ATX50 Octo reg. One last question, what is a rough estimate of how much the ATX50's are going for? One LDS told me $520.00 for the ATX50 and $225 for the ATX50 Octo or maybe it was for just the TX I can't remember. Does this sound about right?

Thanks for everyone's help.

ATX50
http://www.apeks.co.uk/images/products/atx502ndstagelowres.jpg

TX50
http://www.apeks.co.uk/images/products/tx50.jpg

Secondary Air - ATX50 Octopus
http://www.apeks.co.uk/images/products/atx50_octo.jpg

[MikeyJay]

Forgive me for I am new, but If I were to purchase say an Apeks ATX50 regulator aka the second stage, a first stage is not included with the regulator? I wasn't sure why darkstar said DS4/ATX50, but I guess now I know why. I just assumed that when you purchase a regulator both stages are included. Please correct if I am wrong. Also I noticed the DS4 only has 1 high-pressure port, is this suitable? Also what do most people choose DIN or A clamp versions

DS4 & Adapter
http://www.waveaction.net/i/ds4.jpg
DS4 stands for Dry Sealed System. This regulator is as simple as it gets with no turret assembly. It enjoys 4 MP ports 3/8 UNF & 1 HP port 7/16 UNF. This unit is economical and is equally suited for both the beginner who is single tank diving and the multi cylinder technical diver.

[darkstar]

Forgive me for I am new, but If I were to purchase say an Apeks ATX50 regulator aka the second stage, a first stage is not included with the regulator? I wasn't sure why darkstar said DS4/ATX50, but I guess now I know why. I just assumed that when you purchase a regulator both stages are included. Please correct if I am wrong. Also I noticed the DS4 only has 1 high-pressure port, is this suitable? Also what do most people choose DIN or A clamp versions

DS4 & Adapter
http://www.waveaction.net/i/ds4.jpg
DS4 stands for Dry Sealed System. This regulator is as simple as it gets with no turret assembly. It enjoys 4 MP ports 3/8 UNF & 1 HP port 7/16 UNF. This unit is economical and is equally suited for both the beginner who is single tank diving and the multi cylinder technical diver.

There is a bundle called the ATX50 that comes with an ATX50 second stage, but the default first stage (I think it's a DST) has a swivel that is not favoured by tech divers . I mentioned that ATX50 second stage just becuase it seems to be easier to find these days. The TX50 is just a little heavier with a wider exhaust T. Some like it better.

I prefer DIN. I think yoke adapters will eventually be phased out.

Unless you have a computer with transmitter, 1 HP port is all you need.

[ScubaSarus]

I use the Blizzard as my main reg. I had the diveshop tune it for summer diving because it May Come Tuned for winter diving. Hard to say if it needS adjusting from mail order. I believe Winter diving tuned makes it. breath a bit harder but less prone to free flow. I like the reg and in the last 2 weeks I was at 120'. I am also a small guy and I don't usually suck hard on the regulator.

When purchased I dove in 34-36 F water then had it tuned or loosened for the summer. No problems.

[rescuediver009]

The TX50 is the older model of the apeks range. It is (as mentioned) a little larger, and has alot better exhaust dispersion. The ATX is nice and light though. I have the ATX,
As for the first stage, the stadard first stage for the 50 model is the DST (dry sealed turret). If specified you can get it with the DS4 first stage (which is what I did). It is a little more compact that the turret version, and yes it only has one HP port. I don't think that this is a major downfall.
As for DIN or yoke, I (and I think most others) prefer DIN as it is more compact and lower profile as well as it has a captured o-ring, which means no more extruded, torn, or dried out tank face o-rings. The only catch is availability. If you have your own tanks and they are DIN by all means go ahead. Otherwise, check with your LDS and they will letyou know which is more prevalent in their area.
Lastly as for the question of which first (DST or DS4) or second (STX or TX) stage to get, everyone will just tell you what they have. Make your own decision based on personal preference. You don't have to worry about the TX going out of service either it has the same internals as the ATX....

[MikeyJay]

Deciding with the ATX50 regulator and the DS4 first stage along with the ATX50 Octopus, which type of valve should I go with? DIN or YOKE? I do live in the U.S. and all of the tanks I have rented so far have had yoke valves on them. I will eventually buy my own tanks but for now I will just be renting them. But If I get a Yoke adapter that should allow me to use both style of tanks without much of a problem correct? Also you can just screw them on by hand correct? No tools are need are they?




First, get a DIN style regulator and a yoke adaptor. This is an adaptor that screws onto the threaded part of the DIN style 1st stage, basically converting it into a yoke style. This type of adaptor can be screwed on by hand, but is kind of bulky if you use yoke valve cylinders most of the time.

How bulky are they?

So I am assuming getting an adapter is what I should do? Is that what you people do when found in such a situation?

Also I found this document on explaining the difference between a DIN and Yoke valve. For anyone new out there you might be interested in reading this.
http://www.ukrecscuba.org.uk/ukdiver/dinyoke.htm


Also would you guys recommend getting the ATX50 Octopus? Or just a ATX40 Octopus? From what I have been reading the only difference is the that the ATX50 has the
venturi (IVS) and cracking resistance control (CRC) and also the hose is supplied with 3/8" UNF thread, but can be produced with 1/2" UNF to order. And the ATX40 does not. I guess if there isn't a big price difference I will go with the ATX50 Octopus.

One last question, what are Oxygen compatibility kits? I noticed they talk about those on the Apeks website.

Thanks

[spectrum]

D I do live in the U.S. and all of the tanks I have rented so far have had yoke valves on them. I will eventually buy my own tanks but for now I will just be renting them. But If I get a Yoke adapter that should allow me to use both style of tanks without much of a problem correct? Also you can just screw them on by hand correct? No tools are need are they?

How bulky are they?

So I am assuming getting an adapter is what I should do? Is that what you people do when found in such a situation?

Also I found this document on explaining the difference between a DIN and Yoke valve. For anyone new out there you might be interested in reading this.
http://www.ukrecscuba.org.uk/ukdiver/dinyoke.htm

Thanks

Two things to look at IMO...

What does the adapter and Din regulator stack up to? Some do get to a little long and can poke you in the head, neck, back, whatever. If that's the case it may not be a good choice as a default configuration.

If your typical rental tank is either LP steel or Aluminum then yoke may be the path of least resistance. Most or all current yokes are good for high pressure (230BAR/3442PSI) so you're even covered there.

When you invest in your tanks you will probably end up with a convertible valve and can then swap out the valve adapter on the regulator to be DIN from then on if you so choose. Din is largely regarded as a superior connection.

I guess what I'm saying is that running a DIN with a yoke adpater long term may get in the way and it is surely one extra failure point so I'd avoid it as a standard configuration. For DIN users on vacation or snagging an extra cylinder it's a good solution.

Pete

[darkstar]

I've used a Yoke adapter on my ATX200 and I think it only makes it protrude maybe 1/2 inch more than before I converted it to DIN. Certainly doesn't poke me in the head. If you go DIN, buy an adapter. Many resorts only have Yoke tanks, and only some have adapters (usually the ones that service European customers)

If you will only be diving with Yoke tanks for a while, you can always buy the reg as Yoke and then buy an Apeks conversion kit to config it as a DIN reg ($55 USD on Leisurepro). Your local reg tech can put it on when you get your reg serviced, or if you know what you're doing (you can easily wreck the reg if you don't) you can change it over yourself.

When you buy your own tanks, IMO, DIN is the way to go.

An ATX40 Octo if fine. You don't need to fine tune breathing resistance when you are bailing from a dive.

All of the LP ports on the DS4 are 3/8" UNF. The reason the ATX50 second stage is available with a 1/2" UNF hose is that regs like the ATX200 (FSR first stage) have a 1/2" primary LP port. Not having to deal with a 1/2" port is one of the reasons the DS4 first stage is favoured by the Tech-heads.