Light STA recommendations

I want a one-piece light STA that doesn’t push the tank too far from my back – what could you guys recommend for maximizing my adjustment chances with a stumpy Faber HP80?

I’ve seen only a few one-piece versions that do not have a lot of weight, and I wonder how many others I might have missed. I would prefer a STA with additional tanks strap slots but it looks like all those are available only on the weighted ones (?) How far apart are the standard upper and lower slots from each other on STAs? Does it vary a lot between brands?

What I am looking to solve is some residual head-heaviness. I do not need the dang STA for stability but I can’t get the stumpy any lower on my back, and my wing is as high as it can go too. I barely have weight on my belt so not much help from there either.

If the slots on the STAs are designed for longer bottles and will only go on short tank one way (one as high as possible, one bit above boot) then which STAs could you recommend for having a lot of attachment points? (Needless to say no LDS has any to look at – in one they told me STA is a very very old-fashioned ‘thing’ and asked “wouldn’t’ you rather use a BCD than a STA to dive with???”…)

thx

How about an aluminum one?

the K

Have you looked at Dive Rite's STA? It's one-piece and very light-weight ... expensive though ($125 at DiveRiteExpress.com with cam bands) ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

Try loosening the shoulder straps and sliding the BP further down your back.

I dive HP80s (singles and doubles) and I had to adjust my shoulder straps a bit to get them to trim out nicely.

With my 2x80s I get my arms in close and have my legs out.

The 80s are nice tanks but they can be a bear to trim out because they are so short.

Good luck!

Peter

Aluminium and plastic are the materials I have been concentrating on. Can't really afford more than about 2lbs extra weight in the STA.

I think the ones I've seen have been OMS, Dive Rite (I think it is sold without the straps too), and Oxycheq - and none of them offered extra slots/holes for what I could see.

How about a couple of 1 pound hard weights threaded in the lower tank side of the BP, it may help your trim and shave some weight from your belt.

I appreciate your suggestions Peter and Mandy – I was going to say that if anyone has any other solution to this problem it would be even better…

I have been able to remedy most of my lead-headiness with this setup, and things are pretty good underwater (except if I go for a hasty vertical critter-peek-a-poo). However, last weekend a boat captain/DM commented that ‘unless I knew you I’d definitely keep a keen eye after seeing that kind of an entry’, and I got a bit self-conscious again. Back-flip from sitting position means a full 360 degrees roundtrip backwards once I hit the water. (No, I am not pushing with my legs, it’s a slo-mo pleasure-ride all the way). Now I am too embarrassed to go on any charters…

I’ve got the shoulders straps about as low as I can go. I considered putting a weight on the tank strap but... If I was to put 2lbs on lower strap I would only have 2lbs left for my belt with my 7mm (a few more when I throw a vest on, so might work then). Taking or splitting that 4lbs from my belt might be counterproductive to my balance. I kind of feel that even that little bit has been good, so I can dive sideways without the tank starting to pull me over to my back so much. Could be my imagination but I also like to keep a little bit of ditchable weight at this point of my learning.

piikki

I make B/P's and STA's.
Give me some dimensions/specifications of what you want and let me see what I can do.
My standard design is 14" long, attachment/mounting holes on 11" centers, tank strap slots are 2-1/4" wide and on center line with the attachment/mounting holes.
They are formed to acommodate 7.25 and 8.00" tanks. Weighs about 8 ounces.

the K

Sorry, my explanation was vage.

I wasn't talking about weights in the lower tank band, I was refering to the lower slots in the BP where you thread the waist strap of your harness.

Just add a 1# (or any desired weight) hard weight to the tank side of the plate and thread the waist strap through the BP 1st slot, weight 1st slot, weight 2nd slot, BP 2nd slot, that way the weight is non ditchable and secured with the waist strap of the harness.

I personally don't like weights in the tank bands, since they make tank changing a bit more dificult in a rocking boat.
If for any reason I needed weights in the tank band location, I would use a weight pouch, that way the weight can be added after the tank has been installed.

Hi Kraken,

8 oz sounds pretty nice in my ears – do you make yours from alum? Comparing to your standard measurements, the diameter is no problem, and although I could get by with less than 14” of length with 11” centers it should not present a problem. I have Oxycheq SS wing, so there are a couple of options for setting it up. How deep is your STA?

On my Faber 80s, the usable area for tank straps is 10 1/2” (the unusable area referring to the boot and the sloping towards the neck). Currently my strap distance (midstrap to midstrap) is 7 inches. This measurement is off-tank - all of them in the shop today. The slots on the STA would need to bring the straps a bit closer together to give me something to play with.

For planning the strap slots I’d take into account that I probably own HP100s later too, so I don’t want to go totally wild with the positioning. (Knowing myself I do not think I will dying to swap straps between slots at divesite). I do not know much about metals and how much meat one needs between slots but having 3 slots might be a good idea. Then one slot could be the ‘wild’ stumpy one. If only two slots, even an inch drop for the tank starts making a difference because I am nearly there. I am open to suggestions.

Talking about metal – how would the strap slots be finished? Would I need to do something that they wouldn’t eat my straps? And before I get you to do a lot of planning, what kind of prices do you usually ask for your designs?

Thx,
piikki