HNITSUJ
Contributor
Has onyone welded d-rings to the side-bottom edges of their plate? I saw it and thought it would be great for backup reel, bug bag, john line etc. Keep things out of the way but within reach
Welding D-rings To Backplate
- Thread starter HNITSUJ
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HNITSUJ:
I think you'll find that they'll be in the way. They'll dig into your back and such. If you want to put something on the plate for temporarily parking something it's easy enough to run a bit of bungie through one of the holes.
R..
Uh, before you run out and buy a GTAW machine or a whole bunch of zip ties, you might want to try stainless quick-links. Way easier and more adaptable than welding and infinitely stronger than nylon zips.
http://www.diveriteexpress.com/hardware/qlinks.shtml
http://www.diveriteexpress.com/hardware/qlinks.shtml
I wish I had a pic. O.k., looking at the profile of the plate, it is somewhat a "v" shape. Imagine a d-ring welded to the edges of the plate at the same angle. They'd be located at the bottom edge but on the sides. For example, if the plate were stood up on its bottom, the d-rings would not touch. Kinda like extending the perimeter holes out abit. Seems it would give a mounting point thats out of the way. BTW, alreadt got the "TIG" machine. Besides diving, I restore cars. SO, I love to make stuff.
HNITSUJ:
I see. Sounds like a nice innovation. From a practical standpoint I can't think of any reason off hand why this would be a bad idea.
From a pure DIR point of view it's not part of the system and therefore incorrect and from a pure hogarthian viewpoint not minimalist and therefore it should be eliminated. However, if you're not a purist in either system I don't see the problem.
R..
teknitroxdiver
Contributor
Interesting. It ain't kosher by DIR standards, but I guess if that doesn't bother you, and it works without serious flaw, go for it.
Mandy3206
Contributor
I love Drings and attachement points in my BP, that's one of the reasons I bought the OMS BP, lots of holes for many diferent configurations.
I would go with Tom on this one, that way if you don't like the location of the attachement point, you can shufle it around until you're happy with the final location.
After you are happy with "x" or "Y" location, you can weld the rings to the BP.
If you're anything like me, you'll never reach a final location, I keep shuffling around stuff trying to optimize the location of my stuff (I can't be a DIR diver, I can use some of the DIR concepts, but I don't like the straightjacket aproach)
One last thing, if your BP doeasn't have enough holes, you can allways drill a few more in your prefered locations.
Anyway, let us know how it worked for you.
PS.... I read somewhere here on SB about a Dring mounted on the lower cam band, I installed one in that location and works great for clipping my surface float, the guy suggesting this location used that Dring for storing reels and stuff. I can confirm the easy access of this Dring.
I would go with Tom on this one, that way if you don't like the location of the attachement point, you can shufle it around until you're happy with the final location.
After you are happy with "x" or "Y" location, you can weld the rings to the BP.
If you're anything like me, you'll never reach a final location, I keep shuffling around stuff trying to optimize the location of my stuff (I can't be a DIR diver, I can use some of the DIR concepts, but I don't like the straightjacket aproach)
One last thing, if your BP doeasn't have enough holes, you can allways drill a few more in your prefered locations.
Anyway, let us know how it worked for you.
PS.... I read somewhere here on SB about a Dring mounted on the lower cam band, I installed one in that location and works great for clipping my surface float, the guy suggesting this location used that Dring for storing reels and stuff. I can confirm the easy access of this Dring.
mike_s
Contributor
Don't weld the D-ring directly to the plate. It will make the ring "rigid" and non-moveable.
Take the D-ring and insert it into a small piece of metal piping and then weld that small piece of metal piping to the backplate. This will allow the D-ring to pivot around.
Heavy duty Tie wraps like the others said will also allow the same range of motion though and be much easier to attach and also remove if you want to move them or simply not use them anymore. If you need a stronger attachment than tie-wraps, use screw-tighten hose clamps (radiator clamps).
Take the D-ring and insert it into a small piece of metal piping and then weld that small piece of metal piping to the backplate. This will allow the D-ring to pivot around.
Heavy duty Tie wraps like the others said will also allow the same range of motion though and be much easier to attach and also remove if you want to move them or simply not use them anymore. If you need a stronger attachment than tie-wraps, use screw-tighten hose clamps (radiator clamps).
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