A. J. Shark
Guest
I have a nikonos 105 that I got for Christmas and am still not any good at taking pic's, any tips??
- A. J.
- A. J.
nikonos 105
- Thread starter A. J. Shark
- Start date
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scorpionfish
Guest
AJ,
You did not mention what camera you are using and whether other strobe(s) produced satisfactory photos with it. If so, it could be the strobe. Nikon had some problems with the 105, but they were seal problems, if I remember correctly. Thus, the strobe would fail and not flash at all. Does your strobe flash?
You can test the strobe by taking some terrestrial photos with it. If you have a Nikonos, or S&S, use the lens that works on land (35mm or 80mm with the Nikonos) and take some indoor photos with the TTL setting. If they photos do not turn out, the problem is very likely a malfunctioning strobe.
If the strobe does work, it could be that you are aiming incorrectly. Remember that subjects look closer than they actually are underwater. So, you need to aim beyond the apparent location of the subject. I do not know how much experience you have with U/W photography, so if this sounds too elemental, please forgive me. If your experience is limited, you can "practice" by taking some U/W photos of your fins. That way you will know the distance exactly and can get used to the kind of adjustments needed U/W. Of course, they will be pretty boring photos and your fellow divers may think you are a little "off"! Many books on U/W photography suggest trying new equipment out in a pool: if you have one available, that is a good idea.
Hope this helps.
Scorpionfish
You did not mention what camera you are using and whether other strobe(s) produced satisfactory photos with it. If so, it could be the strobe. Nikon had some problems with the 105, but they were seal problems, if I remember correctly. Thus, the strobe would fail and not flash at all. Does your strobe flash?
You can test the strobe by taking some terrestrial photos with it. If you have a Nikonos, or S&S, use the lens that works on land (35mm or 80mm with the Nikonos) and take some indoor photos with the TTL setting. If they photos do not turn out, the problem is very likely a malfunctioning strobe.
If the strobe does work, it could be that you are aiming incorrectly. Remember that subjects look closer than they actually are underwater. So, you need to aim beyond the apparent location of the subject. I do not know how much experience you have with U/W photography, so if this sounds too elemental, please forgive me. If your experience is limited, you can "practice" by taking some U/W photos of your fins. That way you will know the distance exactly and can get used to the kind of adjustments needed U/W. Of course, they will be pretty boring photos and your fellow divers may think you are a little "off"! Many books on U/W photography suggest trying new equipment out in a pool: if you have one available, that is a good idea.
Hope this helps.
Scorpionfish
OP
A. J. Shark
Guest
it's a Nikonos V 105 and yes the strobe works
I will try to download some pics and see if you can tell what Iam doing wrong
thanks
I will try to download some pics and see if you can tell what Iam doing wrong
thanks
blacknet
Contributor
Hello,
Need to know several things, what area your diving in, what the subject your shooting, what lens you are using, what film you are using and what methods you are shooting. All these make a HUGE difference.
Most of the time my 105 will stay dry. Perhaps the biggest tip anyone can give is embrase the ambient.
Ed
Need to know several things, what area your diving in, what the subject your shooting, what lens you are using, what film you are using and what methods you are shooting. All these make a HUGE difference.
Most of the time my 105 will stay dry. Perhaps the biggest tip anyone can give is embrase the ambient.
Ed
OP
A. J. Shark
Guest
I am trying to shoot anything that I can
using a macro lens
Fugichrome sensia 100 for color slides
ut:
hope that helps
thanks
using a macro lens
Fugichrome sensia 100 for color slides
ut: hope that helps
thanks
blacknet
Contributor
Hello,
Well macro lens i'm assuming 80mm nikkor? or is this the 28/35 with tubes? If it's the 80mm then I would recomend a new lens. If it's tubes then your subject matter is limited to the very small framer.
Ed
Well macro lens i'm assuming 80mm nikkor? or is this the 28/35 with tubes? If it's the 80mm then I would recomend a new lens. If it's tubes then your subject matter is limited to the very small framer.
Ed
scorpionfish
Guest
Mr. Shark,
If by "macro", you mean extension tubes + a normal lens or a Nikonos Close-up Kit, then aiming the strobe should be no problem: you are just pointing it right at the framer, right?
Normally, then you
(1) set the ISO setting one ISO number higher than the actual ISO,
(2) Close the aperature all the way,
(3) set the shutter for 1/60 sec.,
(4) set the focus on infinity,
(5) set the 105 on TTL,
(6) aim and shoot.
Immediately after taking the photograph, look at the full-power light: if it is flashing, open the aperature one stop. If your current problem is photos that are too dark (underexposed), this will solve the problem.
If your current problem is photos that are too light (overexposed), then you are probably not stopping the lens down all the way. Since the 105 is so powerful and the distance is so small, it is very important to stop the lens all the way down as the starting point for macro.
One more item: if you are using the 80mm UW Nikkor, do get a different lens, preferably the 28mm or 20mm. The 80mm UW Nikkor is almost impossible to use. The depth of field is so shallow, that focusing it requires extreme care. Very, very few photographers have successfully used it U/W.
Scorpionfish
If by "macro", you mean extension tubes + a normal lens or a Nikonos Close-up Kit, then aiming the strobe should be no problem: you are just pointing it right at the framer, right?
Normally, then you
(1) set the ISO setting one ISO number higher than the actual ISO,
(2) Close the aperature all the way,
(3) set the shutter for 1/60 sec.,
(4) set the focus on infinity,
(5) set the 105 on TTL,
(6) aim and shoot.
Immediately after taking the photograph, look at the full-power light: if it is flashing, open the aperature one stop. If your current problem is photos that are too dark (underexposed), this will solve the problem.
If your current problem is photos that are too light (overexposed), then you are probably not stopping the lens down all the way. Since the 105 is so powerful and the distance is so small, it is very important to stop the lens all the way down as the starting point for macro.
One more item: if you are using the 80mm UW Nikkor, do get a different lens, preferably the 28mm or 20mm. The 80mm UW Nikkor is almost impossible to use. The depth of field is so shallow, that focusing it requires extreme care. Very, very few photographers have successfully used it U/W.
Scorpionfish
OP
A. J. Shark
Guest
Thanks for all the help guys
- A J
Scorpionfish, its Miss Shark
- A J
Scorpionfish, its Miss Shark
blacknet
Contributor
Hello,
One addition. Use 1/125 if you want to black the background and 1/60 to show the background. If the strobe fires on full power (blinks) then move the strobe CLOSER to the subject. If you change any of the exposure settings you'll create a different image.
Also keep in mind the DOF on that is paper thin so be cautious.
Ed
One addition. Use 1/125 if you want to black the background and 1/60 to show the background. If the strobe fires on full power (blinks) then move the strobe CLOSER to the subject. If you change any of the exposure settings you'll create a different image.
Also keep in mind the DOF on that is paper thin so be cautious.
Ed
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