Scooter (DPV) questions

I've got a pair of Farallon MK6 DPVs that I use every now and again. They're equipped with a "saddle bar" that you put between your legs and kind of "sit" on. I've watched some videos of folks using more modern scooters with a tow cable. Can someone tell me how exactly that's rigged and used? How does it compare to the saddle bar? What are the advantages and drawbacks? I currently use a crotch strap on most of my gear so that's not an issue. Thanks.

I have only seen videos and pictures but they are attached to a D-ring on a waist strap. That way your body is being pulled almost the same as the bar that youn sit on. I have a Mk-2 which I've used a couple of times and just let it pull me around, I'll probably set up some sort of harness later.

ron_cooper:

I have only seen videos and pictures but they are attached to a D-ring on a waist strap.

Click to expand...

Actually the D-ring is on the crotch strap, but Thalassamania already knew that.

I've only used the modern tow cable variety, so I can't really comment on the differences. . .

xiSkiGuy:

Actually the D-ring is on the crotch strap, but Thalassamania already knew that.

I've only used the modern tow cable variety, so I can't really comment on the differences. . .

Click to expand...

Any good piectures of how they're rigged? Please ...

Thalassamania:

I've got a pair of Farallon MK6 DPVs that I use every now and again. They're equipped with a "saddle bar" that you put between your legs and kind of "sit" on. I've watched some videos of folks using more modern scooters with a tow cable. Can someone tell me how exactly that's rigged and used? How does it compare to the saddle bar? What are the advantages and drawbacks? I currently use a crotch strap on most of my gear so that's not an issue. Thanks.

Click to expand...

On my X the tow cord is connected to points on either side of the prop shroud, one at the top and one opposite on the bottom. The top connection point is where the handle / trigger is located.

This cord is adjustable in lenght via a "taut line" slip knot. On the cord, but not secured to any one point is a bolt snap.

This bolt snap is connected to the dring on the front of the divers crotch strap.

In practice the scooter is in front of, and below the diver. This keeps the diver out of the propwash. The 2 halfs of the tow cord, i.e from the lower connection to the bolt snap, and from the upper connection of the cord to the bolt snap are not the same lenght.

I prefer to have a fairly extended reach, and use a longer cord. The scooter is only steered with your hand (right hand mostly) the cord pulls the diver.

I've never used a ride on scooter and can only relate the "problems" of such as I've heard them described by others:

The diver cannot see the prop, and entannglement can occur (gear etc.) Hard to tow another diver, and the scooter and diver present a larger cross section, i.e. more drag.

Tobin

It depends somewhat on the scooter. I used to run the tow stap to a piece of broom stick and then place that between my legs. That evolved into this:



and here you can see the "wings" I drilled and countersunk for attachment to the shroud:



and:



The tow strap was made from a ratcheting hardware tie-down strap with two snap clips on each end and a brass hook sewn into the middle. Since I use a wing/BP rigged Hog style I attach the hook to the crotch strap D ring which can be seen here in it's stowed position:



The scooter D ring is stowed as here by passing the loop of the crotch strap through the D ring thus locking it to keep it from hooking on anything when not being used.

Here you can see the buisness end of with the two wings to which the straps are secured. I folded the material over forming a loop and then burned a hole through it. Then a 1/4 stainless bolt and washer holds the strap to the wings.



The straps have since been cut to length. The correct lenght is enough to allow for adjustability but still maintain the scooter forward, slightly below and with slight arm bend. The strap allows the scooter to be turned "gangsta" style and driven with a single hand. The black scooter went to a friend and it has a left Go trigger and the red one retains the right Go trigger and left light (explosion augmenting device)--lol.

N

You shouldn't use that brand........Or else you'll die.................
Save yourself.............Send them to me immediately...............
PM me for my address..............LOL

Yes, every thing I do apparently will kill me and create ill will among scubaDIRboard.com pack, oh, woe is me.



After a rather exciting meltdown of the warp drive flux capacitor resulting in a phase change for the aft bulkhead and smoke I was disheartened. But, how can I resist, here with a new heavy duty aft bulkhead going in with a new power relay and new switch--working on the kitchen table, just want to keep my wife involved of course and have the sink nearby to put motor parts in. I burned it in using her whirlpool bathroom. This caused her much dismay. Why is this a problem? N

cool_hardware52:

On my X the tow cord is connected to points on either side of the prop shroud, one at the top and one opposite on the bottom. The top connection point is where the handle / trigger is located.

This cord is adjustable in lenght via a "taut line" slip knot. On the cord, but not secured to any one point is a bolt snap.

This bolt snap is connected to the dring on the front of the divers crotch strap.

In practice the scooter is in front of, and below the diver. This keeps the diver out of the propwash. The 2 halfs of the tow cord, i.e from the lower connection to the bolt snap, and from the upper connection of the cord to the bolt snap are not the same length. ...

Click to expand...

Ditto, for me as well, with my X also.

There are examples on the website:

http://www.dive-xtras.com/

The tow cord should be a single length of rope. Make sure you have an excess of cord to allow for adjustment. The length of the tow cord from the SS swivel bolt snap that connects to the crotch d-ring to the left and right handles should be of different length so that the scooter runs parallel to and slightly below your body when operated single handed. In this way the prop wash passes under your body and the whole setup is streamlined.

Form a large bowline at either end of the tow cord. Take one bowline and turn the loop back on itself to create a slip loop. Put the slip loop over one handle and pull tight. Repeat for the other bowline and handle.

To connect the SS swivel bolt snap, take the middle, or thereabouts, of the tow cord and pass it as a loop through the eye of the bolt snap swivel, loop it over the body of the bolt snap, and back down passed the eye. This should now have formed the same type of slip loop as is on the handles. With a loose slip you can adjust the length of the left and right sections of the tow cord to set the attitude of the scooter to run parallel to your body. This type of loop can be adjusted easily but will not accidentally change its setting once pulled tight.

You then need to get in the water to fine tune the total length of the tow cord. Minor adjustment in overall length is best performed by changing the size of the bowline loops. Once this is done, you can then adjust the position of the bolt snap on the tow cord to allow parallel-to-body operation of the scooter. Having the scooter further away from you is more streamlined. Set it for one-handed operation with your arm nearly straight i.e. only a slightly bent elbow.

When setting the position of the bolt snap in the water, it is best to test it by scootering along a section of flat sea/lake bed which is at a constant depth. Scooter single handed and parallel to the sea bed. If the bolt snap is correctly positioned then the scooter will continue to pull you parallel to the sea bed without any need to steer. If it is wrong, you will find the nose rising or falling and feel the need to steer. When you think you have the position correct, scooter on maximum speed to amplify any remaining need for fine tuning of the setup.