Beginners Guide to DIY Homebuilt Cannister Lights. [Archive] - ScubaBoard

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Bnscherm
March 14th, 2007, 06:02 PM
Enjoy!

http://www.bnsengineering.com

-Brent

Teamcasa
March 14th, 2007, 06:19 PM
Terrific! Thanks.

Dave

Doc Ed
August 3rd, 2007, 10:19 AM
Dang! I wish I saw this before I built my light... Oh well :D Nice link. Thanks!

McKee Boykin
August 3rd, 2007, 01:42 PM
Great stuff!!! Thanks

mkutyna
August 29th, 2007, 08:49 AM
I don't see those latches for sale at salvodiving.com. Did they change what products they sell or do you have to go through authorized dealers to get them?

Any suggestions for possible alternate latches?

amadus98
August 30th, 2007, 04:55 PM
Mc Master Carr is another source for the latches...

socalz
September 1st, 2007, 07:43 PM
Trying to check out site but it tells me file is damaged and can't be repaired any advice?

Wayne L
September 1st, 2007, 08:37 PM
Trying to check out site but it tells me file is damaged and can't be repaired any advice?
Try again, it works for me.
http://www.bnsengineering.com

Wayne

mkutyna
September 2nd, 2007, 09:49 AM
Yeah, I checked MC Master Carr but all of the latches there seemed way too large or didn't have the safety catch. Do you know what part number it is?

bvmjethead
September 2nd, 2007, 09:59 AM
Link does not work for me....:(

miketsp
September 2nd, 2007, 10:25 AM
Link does not work for me....:(

Nor me.

cjfox
September 2nd, 2007, 12:22 PM
The link works fine for me. Thanks for the great info, I've just put togther the magnetic reed switch/MOS fet for a modified mag light. I was using the old Dacor rubber boot on a toggle switch, but when it wore out, I tried using one from an electronics stores, but it failed after 2 dives. I haven't pressures tested the new set up yet, but it worked before, with the toggle switch. I was thinking of putting the magnet in my glove, so when I grab the light it will turn on.

Thalassamania
September 2nd, 2007, 01:49 PM
Link worked fine. Is there any reason to not build a rather flimsy housing with a membrane bottom and fill it with mineral oil? That's done with the battery pods on some submersibles that use jelled lead/acid batteries.

highdesert
September 2nd, 2007, 02:01 PM
Ditto ... can't open the PDF ...

mddolson
September 4th, 2007, 02:14 PM
Reid Tools Supply, Muskegan Michigan

Here's the link to their catalog page:
https://reidecom.reidtool.com/xephr/edit/ITEM_GROUP?query=*CATALOG_ID=RFS07&query=*GROUP_ID=133175&query=*START_WITH_ID=133175

Search SPRING CATCHES

Mike D


I don't see those latches for sale at salvodiving.com. Did they change what products they sell or do you have to go through authorized dealers to get them?

Any suggestions for possible alternate latches?

ToddK
September 4th, 2007, 05:39 PM
I can't opent the link either. What version Acrobat do you have?

Piro
September 5th, 2007, 10:23 PM
me too, linky no worky. /cry :(

Peter_C
September 6th, 2007, 01:00 AM
Worked fine for me. Update you adobe acrobat, then try again.

mkutyna
September 9th, 2007, 01:55 PM
Excellent! Thank you Mike D.

In case anybody is interested, you can get flat sheets of PVC from www.usplastic.com .

Certainly more expensive than making flat PVC on your own but much easier.

hollywood703
September 10th, 2007, 03:05 PM
Brent.....how much do you figure you have into this? thanks

mjcoussens
September 12th, 2007, 01:45 PM
I'm getting together all the parts to make this happen, but am having a hard time sourcing the 3" PVC pipe locally. Can I substitute the ABS pipe? I know they need different glues, but what I'd like to know is if I can heat it in the oven to create flat stock as mentioned with the PVC?

Thanks,

Matt

mkutyna
September 12th, 2007, 02:42 PM
Doing a google search for "bending abs pipe" mostly brings up articles about bending PVC but they mention ABS as well so it seems that it is possible. To be safe, I'd start out 100 degrees lower and see how pliable the ABS becomes. If it's still too hard, up the temp in increments until you get the right temp.

I know prices in Hawaii can be high but you only really need to do tests on 2-3 inch segments before you dial in the correct temperature for bending ABS.

The other thing I'd check is the PSI rating for ABS compared to PVC. It should be similar though.

mjcoussens
September 12th, 2007, 02:58 PM
Thanks, for the quick response. It never occurred to me to look up pipe bending, but it does seem that it's possible. I'll report back with my findings.

Matt

jeraldjcook
September 13th, 2007, 02:21 PM
I just realized that there are 2 types of schedule 40 PVC, one that is pressure rated and one that isn't (only to used for vents, called cellular core). Turns out I bought the schedule 40 cellular core version. The wall thickness is the same, but it's lighter than the pressure rated version. Will the stuff I have work or do I need to return it? The pressure rated stuff is rate for 260psi, and I figure I'll only need 60psi for 130ft. Plus the pressure is different, compression vs. expansion. I'm starting to ramble so I'll end here. Thanks in advance.

Edit: Nevermind, I found this: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1599955&highlight=cellular+core#post1599955 Guess I need to return it.

mjcoussens
September 13th, 2007, 02:39 PM
Well, after some more googling on the strength of ABS vs PVC here: http://tomacorp.com/ballistics/ABSvsPVC.html
It looks like ABS should be strong enough to withstand the pressure as well as being more impact resistant. I went ahead with the bending by using a foot long piece of 4" ABS pipe. Heating to 300F made it slightly pliable, 350F more so, however complete pliability to the point of being able to flatten it out happened when the temp was raised to 375F and held for 5 minutes. If I was going to do it again I think I would cut the pipe in half longitudinally beforehand to help avoid some of the "wrinkles that were formed in the center of my flat stock.

Additionally, the ABS comes in black so it's automatically DIR. Now, if I could only find some decals of Blue H's to stick on it...:canofworms:

Matt

Hollywood13
September 14th, 2007, 10:50 PM
ok, this is annoying. The link worked fine yesterday but when I tried today so I could print it out, it doesn't work. It keeps saying, " This file is damaged and could not be repaired. " AAAAHHHHH

cjfox
September 16th, 2007, 02:42 PM
I just finished my 2nd dive with my DIY canister light, and the MOSFET switch set up over heated and failed (would not shut off). When I bought the stuff at the electronics store, the guy said I would not need to heat sink it, but I'm thinking maybe I do. When I took it apart it was definitely burned. Any one else playing with this stuff?

Packhorse
September 17th, 2007, 02:32 AM
I tried a MOSFET but found it heated up too much ( I had it in the canister)
So I just use a small 10amp relay instead.
No heat and very little current draw from the relay (maybe 50mamps or less).

Not sure of any MOSFET bebbifits unless you want to dim or otherwise control the bulb.

mddolson
September 17th, 2007, 12:57 PM
Yes You can.
I did. I couldn't find a thick block to amchine the base, so I just used a plumbing cap.
Here's a link to my divelight & cannister.
I currently machining an aluminum cannister.

http://groups.msn.com/divelight/mikedshidlight.msnw

Mike D


I'm getting together all the parts to make this happen, but am having a hard time sourcing the 3" PVC pipe locally. Can I substitute the ABS pipe? I know they need different glues, but what I'd like to know is if I can heat it in the oven to create flat stock as mentioned with the PVC?

Thanks,

Matt

mjcoussens
September 17th, 2007, 05:05 PM
Well, I've managed to finish the Illuminator this weekend using ABS pipe, and 12 D-cells over volting a 50watt Halogen. I have to say I'm impressed by the brightness and my wife was even more impressed at the build quality (apparently I have a reputation for Ghetto-rigging). BTW, I found that McMaster carries the same Nielson Sessions latches as Salvo that were mentioned in the guide. If anyone has trouble getting the guide or needs part numbers for any of it feel free to pm and email address to send it off to.

Matt

CivilE
September 17th, 2007, 05:12 PM
Well, I've managed to finish the Illuminator this weekend using ABS pipe, and 12 D-cells over volting a 50watt Halogen. I have to say I'm impressed by the brightness and my wife was even more impressed at the build quality (apparently I have a reputation for Ghetto-rigging). BTW, I found that McMaster carries the same Nielson Sessions latches as Salvo that were mentioned in the guide. If anyone has trouble getting the guide or needs part numbers for any of it feel free to pm and email address to send it off to.

Matt

Any pics? Oh, PM sent too...

:beerchug:

CivilE

jeraldjcook
September 17th, 2007, 08:05 PM
Does anyone have any experience with 14 cells in series for 16.8v nominal?

mjcoussens
September 18th, 2007, 02:54 PM
I'm sure it would work just fine. he only issue I can see is how to go about building the battery pack into the best form factor.

On another note, does anyone have a guesstimate on how long it should take to charge a 14.4v battery pack? Mines been on the charger since Sunday at noon and the charge indicator still has not changed from red to green. FWIW, I have tested the battery pack and it will power the light just fine. I'm just curious about the amount of time needed for a full charge.

Thanks,

Matt

jeraldjcook
September 18th, 2007, 07:11 PM
I'm sure it would work just fine. he only issue I can see is how to go about building the battery pack into the best form factor.

I have that all figured out, I was just curious on bulb failure, etc. Battery pack looks like this, but two high. Fits like a glove.
http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/data/2570/thumbs/a216.jpg (http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/81916)



On another note, does anyone have a guesstimate on how long it should take to charge a 14.4v battery pack?

How many amps (or mah) is your battery and how many amps is your charger? A 5,000 mah battery would take about 6 hours on a 1 amp charger. Just divide your battery size by charger output and add 10-20%.

Packhorse
September 19th, 2007, 01:18 AM
Most batterys require 140% charge.
eg a 5000 mah will require 7000 ma charge for an hour or 700ma for 10 hours.
If your charger only puts out 70ma then it will take 4 days to charge it.
I use 12 Nicads at 5000mah. The charger I built has 2 charge settings. "fast" charges in 10 hours while "slow" takes 25 or so from flat
I usually never run the battery right down so I charge on Fast for 4 or 5 hours then over night on low to top it up before a dive. This way I never over charge it.
I do intend to make the Fast faster.

mkutyna
September 19th, 2007, 10:31 AM
What kind of container are you putting that 16.8v battery pack in or are they not NiMH D's?

jeraldjcook
September 19th, 2007, 11:04 AM
It's a 4" pvc and yes they are D cells. It's a bit wider than I hoped for, but it's quite short. I'm planning on running a 50w MR16 so I wanted at least a 10 Ah battery. I almost did 2 C cell 5 Ah batteries and a smaller cannister (1 pack in it at a time) but the Ds won out for a number of reasons. I considered lithium polymer and lithium ion batteries, but even building my own pack they were 2 1/2 times the cost. I'll post some picts in a week or so, I'm waiting for a few parts to come in the mail.

mjcoussens
September 19th, 2007, 02:29 PM
Yeah, looks like I need a bigger charger...mine is only .4amps. I did test out the battery pack though and it gave me 2 hours of light before I shut it off, so it will last me for at least a full day of diving. I'll get pics up as soon as I can. Next up is a housing for my video camera.

Matt

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