It's noob question time!!

Time for the noob to ask another question..

When I did my certification dive, I had one of those cheapo underwater cameras. I never would have guessed the added complexity it caused performing my underwater skills(like taking the BC off). I also noticed that the side of my body that had the camera attached seemed to float slightly higher than the other side. I had the camera attached to my wrist if that makes a difference.

I know there are other dive containers out there, and underwater cameras, and all kinds of other things that would be positively buoyant.

My question is how you as a diver compensate for the added buoyancy, and whether attaching the items to different places might affect your ability to move around and stay balanced.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my question.

I have a rather large (by digital standards today) enclosure made by Ikelite and I use it for a mini-compact VHS camcorder. Out of water it weighs something like 18-20 lbs. I made sure it was only about a 1/4 pound positive before I went diving with it. In case I lost it, I could go find it at the surface, maybe. I try to trial dive a new item to see if it's really position and then try to figure out how to make it more neutral. That way you have less of a challenge getting around with it.
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My Olympus still camera with housing is a little positive but never caused a problem with buoyancy. My Sony Ikelite video setup is slightly negative. I believe it is better for photographers and videographers to have the setup about 1 pound negative. It is important to have the ability to secure either setup to your BCD and be hands free. Some drivers like the ability to rest the equipment on the bottom and even film.

I had a great Ikelite dive light for many years...the owner of my LDS custom weighted the head of it for me and it would lay horizontal on the bottom. Fantastic!!!

Unfortunately, after 15 wonderful years I flooded and killed it last year. Now I'm using my ex-spouse's light which has a bouyant head. I hate it because I can't lay it down pointing into a bug den.

I know that doesn't answer your question...but I wonder how I can make that light lay horizontal when I put it down.

This may sound a little simple but learn to dive first. At this point in your diving you are just beginning to understand buoyancy and how to control it. Spend the next year or so getting your trim and buoyancy dead on and making it second nature. Then start adding other items.
I prefer may camera to be slightly negative. I want it to drop down and not float above my head.

Herman is right, learn to dive first. Then add the camera to your rig. The camera probably didnt throw off your balance as much as you "thought" it was. If you had it on your wrist, you were probably holding your hand out away from you alot more than usual and keeping it high so as not to tangle in your hoses.(maybe not but have seen it alot) learn to dive and control your bouyancy a little better, then go with the camera. I usually hook them to my bc about my waist when just cruising around and then to my wrist when actually using it. Mine is very positive in the water but I am accustomed to it enough that I really dont notice it now.

Shouden:

Time for the noob to ask another question..

When I did my certification dive, I had one of those cheapo underwater cameras. I never would have guessed the added complexity it caused performing my underwater skills(like taking the BC off). I also noticed that the side of my body that had the camera attached seemed to float slightly higher than the other side. I had the camera attached to my wrist if that makes a difference.

I know there are other dive containers out there, and underwater cameras, and all kinds of other things that would be positively buoyant.

My question is how you as a diver compensate for the added buoyancy, and whether attaching the items to different places might affect your ability to move around and stay balanced.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my question.

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Kudos just for being aware of the effect of the camera's buoyancy on yours! I've seen divers with seemingly good buoyancy control turn into complete buffoons when you put a camera, or anything else for that matter (positive or negative), in their hands. I suspect it has more to do with task loading and perceptual narrowing than it does with the actual buoyancy of the object.

I usually recommend to my students that they add a couple of extra pounds to their person any time they're engaging in a new activity underwater, like photography, hunting, or drift diving. This helps to compensate for the diver's increased buoyancy until he or she becomes more comfortable and relaxed in the performance of the new activity.

As for trim/balance, I recommend holding the camera in your right hand (or with both hands), rather than letting it float or dangle from your wrist or body. You'll be able to adjust your trim/balance just by repositioning the object, and better prepared to catch the shot (rather than fumbling around for the camera) when something cool happens!

Having used both, I prefer a slightly negative camera housing, and believe them to be easier to find than the positive variety in the unlikely event that they are dropped. They also have the advantage of being able to be disconnected and set down if, for example, you need to remove your bcd, or catch a tasty bug for dinner!

Dive safely, have fun, and never stop learning!

Some cameras have weights that you can attach to the camera itself to keep buoyancy down and to help keep the camera still.

I just wanted to thank everyone again for taking the time to reply to my question. I've found it educational reading everyone's responses. For now, I think I'll resist the urge of taking a camera for memories, and just concentrate on keeping my depth consistent.

I'm glad I found a forum where I can ask questions and receive replies from so many experienced divers. I feel like this is a gold mine for new divers.

thanks again

If it is just snaps you want, there are some great housings for those tiny flat (breast pocket) type digital cameras. Because they are so small they have little effects on bouyancy.

Bigger cameras certainly make diving more difficult, particularly when you are starting out.