MK10 yoke to DIN

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stefusa

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I'm a Fish!
I am looking to change my MK10 yoke in DIN fitting.
I am wondering if a male DIN200 (5 threads) exists ?
The underlying question being,
Is it best (if i can) to put a DIN200 to make sure i never plug the MK10 to a HP or is it better to use the DIN300 and just remember to never put it on an HP.
And maybe i am all wrong and people use MK10 on HP tanks....

Question on the side...
Is DIR requiring DIN300 ?

thanks
 
I've had a Mk5 clone (Oceanic) on a tank with 4000 PSI in it (the gauge on the fill whip was screwed), and it worked just fine. I don't recommend this, but it held up just fine. Secondly, high pressure cylinders can have 200 bar or 300 bar and sometimes even yoke valves on them, so the style of DIN fitting on the regulator really means nothing. Just get the 300 bar and be done with it.

Jim
 
mk10 are pretty old (age of the material), and i'd quote the risks of damages should the reg be connected to 300bar as not insignificant. the issue is you wont do it, but murphy's law says someone else will...
eric
 
A Mk 10 is not going to detonate at 300 bar and in most cases will work just fine. But it is possible that if you have one with looser tolerances that at pressures over 3500 psi you may encounter some pinching of the high pressure o-ring which in turn will eventually cause a leak from the high pressure side of the reg into the ambient chamber.

The good news here is that this type of failure is seldom catastophic and is easily diagnosed with a bubble check as soon as you enter the water and can also be ruled out by a pre-dive leak check (note the SPG reading, turn the valve off and note the pressure a few minutes later - it should be the same or at least very close and if so nothing in the system is leaking - including the HP o-ring).

With regard to a 200 bar DIN conversion, I have not seen one in years. Scubapro's universal 300 bar DIN kit is designed to be used on everything except the Mk 5 (which has a different body arrangement).
 
mk10 are pretty old (age of the material), and i'd quote the risks of damages should the reg be connected to 300bar as not insignificant. the issue is you wont do it, but murphy's law says someone else will...
eric

So how much do you figure brass technology has advanced in the last 20 years?
 
mk10 are pretty old (age of the material), and i'd quote the risks of damages should the reg be connected to 300bar as not insignificant. the issue is you wont do it, but murphy's law says someone else will...
eric

So how much do you figure brass technology has advanced in the last 20 years?

More interestingly, how much do you think that brass has aged in 20 years?
 
That's kind of a "who's buried in Grant's tomb" kind of question...but I'd estimate it's aged about 20 years.

But...as far as I know brass does not degrade with age - assuming it is not corroded, etc. Brass can get brittle through work hardening (being repeatedly bent back and forth) and some chemicals like ammonia can cause it to harden and crack over long periods of time, but neither of these issues apply to chrome plated brass scuba regulators.

To put it in perspective I have a several double hose regs that I still dive that are either over 50 or are pushing 50 real hard. They still don't blow up either. Nor did the brass cases fail on some WWII era Caliber .30 M2 ball ammunition I shot recently and there we are talking about 48,000 psi, not 4,350 psi.

Brass is pretty durable stuff.
 
Scubapro's universal 300 bar DIN kit is designed to be used on everything except the Mk 5 (which has a different body arrangement).

DA,

Did you mean the MK 7? I just got rid of my MK 5 (yoke) but it seems that it was very similar to the MK 10.....I still have the "Honker" and I'm sure there is no way to put a DIN kit on it as the yoke is actually part of the housing.

couv
 
DA,

Did you mean the MK 7? I just got rid of my MK 5 (yoke) but it seems that it was very similar to the MK 10.....I still have the "Honker" and I'm sure there is no way to put a DIN kit on it as the yoke is actually part of the housing.

couv


I believe the design of the Mk5 yoke is different. Most of the others (10/15/20/25 & the BDs) are compatible.
 
OK,

I have the diagrams up now and I see the error of my ways. Both the MK 5 parts list and the MK 10 parts list refer to the yoke retainer as "universal" but, obviously they are not. Also explains my faux pas with the yoke o-ring size on another thread.

But anyway, you could braze some more brass into place and then machine out the thread size, then take the completed unit to the local chrome shop..... see, I wasn't wrong...just like I tell my wife....just missed out a few minor details. :)

Thanks Awap for setting me straight.

couv
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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