Using an Sea and Sea MX-10 w/ YS-40 strobe

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So I was fortunate enough to be given a Sea and Sea MX-10 underwater camera with a YS-40 strobe and am eager to get it wet but unfortunately it costs money to go scuba diving. I've read the instruction manual as well as a book about underwater photography with a specific chapter on the camera itself, about 5 times each, and I gotta admit, it seems to be pretty confusing. I'm not entirely clear on which f-stop to choose and when to use the strobe. The strobe just has an on/off. There's no auto option. I've the relative posts on here and they mostly seem to suggest I get a digital camera but since I can hardly afford a dive every 2 weeks, I can't afford a digital camera so I'm looking to do my best with the MX-10. Basically I'm wondering if anybody has any tips for the camera in specific or some advice on choosing f-stops and any other things to take into consideration. I dive in Monterey/Carmel so it's safe to assume it will be relatively low visibility. Any tips are appreciated! Thanks guys!
 
With 200 or 400 iso film, f stops between 4 and 8, try shutter speeds from 1/60th to 1/250th. 200 iso would be for shallow and mostly stobe pictures (100 if all strobe), 400 for deeper and more ambient light shots. f4.0, 1/60th for stationary or very slow moving deep shots (lighter blue background), but you must also be steady. f8.0, 1/250th for shallow and fast action or bright objects with strobe.

Those are from the dusty back corners of my memory, in general film settings. Hopefully the books are similar. If I'm mistaken, at least I primed the conversation. With the strobe, 3' or closer will be better. Not much point in using strobe if the subject is more than 8' away.

Your first few rolls should be bracket tests; shoot similar shots with f4.0, changing the shutter speed (1/60th, 1/125th, 1/250th), then f5.6 , then f8.0. That's 9 pictures of the same thing (tough with swimming seals). Do this at different depths and in different conditions with different subjects. Some strobes also have adjustable power...
 
So I was fortunate enough to be given a Sea and Sea MX-10 underwater camera with a YS-40 strobe and am eager to get it wet but unfortunately it costs money to go scuba diving. I've read the instruction manual as well as a book about underwater photography with a specific chapter on the camera itself, about 5 times each, and I gotta admit, it seems to be pretty confusing. I'm not entirely clear on which f-stop to choose and when to use the strobe. The strobe just has an on/off. There's no auto option. I've the relative posts on here and they mostly seem to suggest I get a digital camera but since I can hardly afford a dive every 2 weeks, I can't afford a digital camera so I'm looking to do my best with the MX-10. Basically I'm wondering if anybody has any tips for the camera in specific or some advice on choosing f-stops and any other things to take into consideration. I dive in Monterey/Carmel so it's safe to assume it will be relatively low visibility. Any tips are appreciated! Thanks guys!


If you had the MM II EX, I could help--shot one for 12 years & recently(4 months ago) went to digital..........Let me ask, do you have a CU lens setting???.....If so, stay within 3 ft. & use f22, I would use the strobe all the time......

EDIT:...I would use 100 speed film, that's what S&S recomends for the MM II, anyway...
 
First off, thank you guys very much for your help! As I said, I have yet to get the camera wet but I figured I'd burn off a few rolls of film and work with some trial and error. I don't have a CU lens setting, the camera came with a "MX-10 Macro lense" but I think that it is missing a piece because I don't think it will mount on the camera. Also, I'm not sure if I can control shutter speed? When I am underwater, I literally have these and only these options with the camera: 1) Strobe on or off and 2) f-stops. Other than that, I can swivel a knob that locks the "take-the-picture" button. I read in the book something about being able to half-way depress the button and if I see a red light it means I need to increase the f-stop? Basically, I plan on taking pictures of things on rocks or kelp and maybe some diver portraits. Not too many 1' plus shots or wrecks or anything like that, other than the mandatory blind turn and snap of a seal wooshing by :) Sorry for my very rudimentary knowledge and I appreciate the feedback!!
 
The strobe also has the diffuser cap that covers the flash. I read an article and the guy said he never dives without it, I don't know if that means he never takes it off the strobe or what though. Do you use the diffuser cap when you aren't looking for as much brightness and more of a general illumination of the photograph area?
 
I shot the MX10 for a couple of years. Here are some quick things that I learned that worked well for me.

First of all you are right about the shutter speed. It is fixed at 1/125.

For the built in lens, and the W/A lens the following settings worked well for me:
Above 60' on a sunny day f8
Above 60' on a cloudy day f5.6
Below 60' f5.6
shoot from between 3' - 5'. The lens will focus from 3' to infinity, but the strobe will not do you any good beyond 5'.

For the macro lens either f11, or f16 depending on the subject.

Always use the strobe. (IMO)

Now get out there and shoot, and share some pictures.
 
I shot the MX10 for a couple of years. Here are some quick things that I learned that worked well for me.

First of all you are right about the shutter speed. It is fixed at 1/125.

For the built in lens, and the W/A lens the following settings worked well for me:
Above 60' on a sunny day f8
Above 60' on a cloudy day f5.6
Below 60' f5.6
shoot from between 3' - 5'. The lens will focus from 3' to infinity, but the strobe will not do you any good beyond 5'.

For the macro lens either f11, or f16 depending on the subject.

Always use the strobe. (IMO)

Now get out there and shoot, and share some pictures.

Yes sir! Thanks for the tips that's exactly what I needed! Any suggestions on film or diffuser cap?
 
Yes sir! Thanks for the tips that's exactly what I needed! Any suggestions on film or diffuser cap?


The strobe has a built in diffuser, but if you wanted to add to it the cap from a Pringles Potato Chips can works great. Punch a couple of holes in teh edge of it and attach rubberbands through the holes. Use these to secure it to the strobe.

For film do you want to shoot print or slide?

You can shoot either 100 ASA or 400 ASA. If you want to make enlargements I would stick with the 100. Pretty much any brand print film would be good. If you get a chance to do any wrecks try a black and white film. It is a nice effect. Or you could shoot color film, scan the picture, and take the color out in Photoshop.

If you want to shoot slide you could either try the Kodak Elite 100, or the Fuji Provia. The Provia has a rich color saturation. I used to use the Provia and the Fuji Velvia 100.
 
There are 2 models of strobes for the MX-10. The older YS-40 does not have a built in diffuser and does not have an auto mode, the YS-40A has both. Its a good idea to use the add on diffuser on the YS-40. If it has an "auto" mode it's an A model.
I used a MX-10 for a lot of years. I found that Kodak film to produced more accurate colors but Fuji film had bolder, more vivid color. I tended to like Fuji better. The MX-10 will handle both 100 and 400 speed film. IMO 100 gives better results. The only thing that changes when you swap between 100 and 400 is the calibration of the internal light meter. If you look in the view finder and press HALF way down on the shutter release you will see lights indicating if the F-stop is correct for the film speed selected....to be honest I am having a senior moment and forget how many lights there are in the MX-10....I will check when I get home. If your using the strobe, it does not matter anyway.

Do you have to chart on the strobe indicating the correct F-stop to distance?? It should be stuck to the top of the strobe but it came loose and lots of people did not attach it to the strobe. If not I can get you a copy of it.

When choosing Fstops, do NOT use the ones with the lighting bolt on them....at least underwater, they are fine above water. The difference is the camera will fire both the internal flash AND the strobe with the lighting bolt on, it only fires the strobe with the F-stops that do not have the lighting bolt. If you allow both to fire it will cause the shot to contain a lot more backscatter....looks like square snow flakes all over the photo. You can play with this above water with no film in the camera.


The macro lens is a complete unit. It attaches to the camera via a bayonet connection. If you look at the camera carefully you will see 2 notches on each side of the lens. The macro lens, as do all the other MX-10 lens, have tabs on them than fit in these notches and then is turned 45 deg. The macro lens folds out so make sure it's unfolded before use.

I would also suggest you try to find a copy of a book called "The New Guide to Sea and Sea" (or something close to that, my copy is at home), either on line or maybe a library near by has one. It is very very good at explaining everything you want to know about the MX-10, YS-40 and lenses. For $100 I will sell you my copy....and throw in a MX-10/Stobe and 2 lenses for free. :)

A long time back I posted a bunch of stuff on the MX-10. Do a search and you can likely find it. Be happy to PM with specific questions if you like.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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