SeaLife good deal or not?

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SteveTW

Contributor
Messages
147
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Location
Live in Browns Mills,NJ.
# of dives
50 - 99
I just bought a brand new SeaLife Reefmaster Maxx 3.3MP camera outfit at a scuba flea market. It was a spur of the moment buy for $500. The whole kit consists of:
3.3 MP camera w/ 8MB internal memory (SD card compatable)
1.6" LCD color monitor
Movie JPEG capable
3X Close up lens for 2'-4' shots
8X and 16X Macro lenses
Sunshade for LCD screen
12 NiMH batteries with 3 chargers
International plug adaptors
19" x 15" x 7" Hard case
2- #SL 960 External Flashes with 8" flexible arms and trays
2- Flash diffusers

Even though I bought it already I was offered another deal for a camera that I already have. It's a setup! for my Olympus C-3000 3.3 MP camera.
Included in the offer is:
2 x Ikelite DS-50 $100 each. (New Ike DS-51's go for $550 ea)
1 x MiniQ40 flashlight, used as a spotting/focus light, Free. (New goes for $40)
Single Sync Cord. $25 (This one's brand new, never dove it. These usually go for $75)
Dual Sync Cord. $50 (Used this one every time, works great, but not new. Goes for $100 new).
UltraLight Arms/Clamps $100 (These go for $50 for the arm, $50 for the clamp, you're getting 2 arms, 4 clamps)
Housing with Camera Tray and Light and Motion Lenses $175. Includes the strobe bulkhead and one Wetmate 67mm threaded lens for underwater attachment/removal of lenses. Went for $1000+ new, with accessories goes for around $300 on eBay.
Tetra Wetmate Macro Lens, $50, went for $375 when it was new, goes for around $200 on eBay, but rarely seen.
Pelican Case $50, goes for around $120 new, goes for around $80 on eBay.

The case was serviced last year and everything is in great shape. I was given a price of around $650 for the whole deal.

So, what I'm asking your opinion on is:
Do I stay with what I already bought or do I go for the Tetra 3030 housing and all the accessories for a camera that I know and like very much?
Thanks for any opinions you might have,
Steve
 
Personally I'd say go with the latter over the former. Reasons:

a) I don't think in either case you'll be very satisfied with 3.3 MP pictures these days. I'm taking pics now with a 4MP camera and hate it, trying to afford my upgrade to 8-ish.

b) The arms, sync cord, strobes, etc can quite likely be re-used if you do upgrade camera and housing later. (Check if you can if the strobes are serial #s 70,000 or higher - if so they're compatible even with the latest in-housing TTL circuitry from Ikelite. If not, then they won't work in pure TTL mode but still will work in manual or with an EV-controller. Check the cord too - blue band on it is the 'newest' - without this it might not work in full TTL control with newer housings.

c) The arms, strobes, etc can be ebayed if you decide you don't want to use it later on, or want to go with a newer more compact PnS later on. I just bought 2 DS-50s for $200 each and considered it a very good deal (still do).

Essentially for $150 difference in price you're only locked into the 'housing' being a sunk-cost item if you choose to upgrade, all the rest is either partially usable, completely usable, or very resellable. With the Sealife camera, if you upgrade, you've sunk the whole $500.

That's my opinion, hopefully others will chime in too. Either way you go, enjoy your shooting!

(p.s. for $500, you can also get this, NEW. No strobes or lenses, but double the resolution:

Sealife | ReefMaster DC600 Underwater Digital Camera | SL160 )
 
Based on your information, I'd lean towards the later simply because of the strobes. You can use them now and on different gear later. And if you like to dive and photograph, you will upgrade. The other reason is being comfortable with your gear at depth. Knowing the controls without having to think is a good thing. The one thing to check though is whether the housing enables access to all the camera features. Some do not. I found that out the hard way AFTER I bought my 1st gear.

I personally wouldn't worry too much about the resolution of the camera - unless you're doing serious cropping. Most people crop underwater photos to enlarge the prints. The issue is you lose so much light w/distance that pictures lack the color definition. One of the rules of underwater photography from the pros is to get closer, and if you think you're close enough, get closer still. So for my money, I'd rather have the strobes with lenses that give me that flexibility than to eek out a little more resolution.
 
The 2nd for two reasons. You know the camera already and enjoy it. That alone with make it easier to dive with. Secondly, the ikelite strobes will graduate, to a certain degree, with newer cameras should you decide to upgrade the camera and housing later.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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