What's the best P-valve on the market? Do alot of you guys like the Halycon one, it's a little expensive and is I was wondering if anyone else put out a comparable one? Anyone use the dive rite one?
What does p-valve installation entail?
Thanks!
dmdalton
March 17th, 2003, 11:16 AM
I dive the Halcyon balanced with Rochester Wide Band catheters.
Install is simple and I think they have the info on the EE site. Cut a hole, coat area and valve with aquaseal several times and install. I used a washer made from 1/8" neoprene as well to give it something to bite into.
I've seen the DiveRite, don't like it as well and if you think the Halcyon is expensive...well.
Dave D
PS - get a qucik disconnect from McMaster Carr makes hooking up in public a breeze.
reefraff
March 17th, 2003, 11:55 AM
McMaster Carr QD?
Do you have any additional information about this? I tried a Google - way too many hits for one lifetime:)
url/part number/source/anything will be helpful.
Thanks, in advance.
Steven
MechDiver
March 17th, 2003, 12:12 PM
I have the DR valve and like it better than the Halcyon, but it is more expensive.
We're using a plastic QD that has a locking ring, and o-ring pressure seal. I have some pics but don't have anyplace to put them; apparently you need a server somewhere to link to.
MD
ericfine50
March 17th, 2003, 12:50 PM
Halcyon P-Valve is way to go. Installitation is not to hard. The hardest part is putting a hole in a dry DS. The QDs are also available from US Plastics. They may have smaller sizes. They allow you the hook and unhook from the hose and not have any backflow.
Eric
Dryglove
March 17th, 2003, 01:06 PM
ericfine50 once bubbled...
The QDs are also available from US Plastics. They may have smaller sizes. They allow you the hook and unhook from the hose and not have any backflow.
Eric
Do you have a website address and the part numbers you used?I like the idea of a quick diconnect especially one that wont backflow when i disconnect it.
By the way i use a Halcyon balanced P valve.Sturdy, simple and does the job.
ericfine50
March 17th, 2003, 01:16 PM
The company is US Plastics and here is the link for the QD page:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=Quick+Disconnect+Couplings+and+Ins erts&Page=1
Eric
maverick7593
March 18th, 2003, 06:33 PM
Which one of the disconnects on that page do you recommend Eric?
ericfine50
March 19th, 2003, 08:15 AM
I actually don't remember, PM dmdalton - he is the man when it comes it QDs
Eric
dmdalton
March 19th, 2003, 08:26 AM
reefraff once bubbled...
McMaster Carr QD?
Do you have any additional information about this? I tried a Google - way too many hits for one lifetime:)
url/part number/source/anything will be helpful.
Thanks, in advance.
Steven
Let me pull out the infoice and see qhich one it was. I will post it here when I find it.
Dave D
dmdalton
March 19th, 2003, 08:27 AM
dmdalton once bubbled...
Let me pull out the infoice and see qhich one it was. I will post it here when I find it.
Dave D
Excuse the spelling! I haven't had my Diet Coke yet this AM!
Dave D
ericfine50
March 19th, 2003, 08:47 AM
Dave,
It is ok - We will forgive you this time.
Eric
Bob3
March 19th, 2003, 02:46 PM
There's a post here by Oxyhacker with a link to drawings; the US Plastics joint has parts, you can slap a P-valve together for pennies.
For a store bought, SiTech has a "real" pee valve, not something that looks like it was put together from hardware store floor sweepings. ;)
maverick7593
March 21st, 2003, 07:31 PM
How about a web site for SiTech so we can see this real P-valve.
oxyhacker
March 26th, 2003, 10:50 AM
It's
http://www.airspeedpress.com/pvalvepage.html
Re DiveRite vs Halcyon, the Dive Rite is a nicely integrated, designed from the ground up unit while the Halcyon basically a slightly updated, well-made version of the cavers traditional homebuilt. Take you pick - both do exactly the same job.
I've heard a lot of people whine about regulators, and especially BC's, saying how badly they regret buying one and how much they wish they'd bought another, but have yet to hear anyone complain very hard about a P-valve - unless to say they wish they'd saved their money and made a homebuilt :-)
Bob3 once bubbled...
There's a post here by Oxyhacker with a link to drawings; the US Plastics joint has parts, you can slap a P-valve together for pennies.
IndyScott
April 13th, 2003, 10:16 PM
I have installed the Halycon one in my dry suit. p-valves take a little to get use to..
But I would not want to dive without it.
I am still tring to fing the best condem decath to use.
Scott =-)
RichLockyer
May 21st, 2003, 12:39 AM
reefraff once bubbled...
McMaster Carr QD?
Do you have any additional information about this? I tried a Google - way too many hits for one lifetime:)
Try a sporting goods store... one that carries bikes.
The product called the "Camelback" has an accessory available that allows you to disconnect the bladder without unthreading the supply tube from the whole shoulder strap.
This QD is perfect for a P-Valve... about $11.
Put the hollow part on "your" half of the tube and the part with the clip in the suit.... this provides a third level of protection beyond the screw and one-way valve should you decide to dive disconnected.
It also allows you to use an unbalanced valve and keep dry if you forgot and left the screw in the truck AND forgot the Rochesters :)
NetDoc
May 21st, 2003, 12:53 AM
I think that UP has a "handle" on this one! :tease:
GearHead
May 21st, 2003, 02:07 AM
RichLockyer once bubbled...
Try a sporting goods store... one that carries bikes.
The product called the "Camelback" has an accessory available that allows you to disconnect the bladder without unthreading the supply tube from the whole shoulder strap.
This QD is perfect for a P-Valve... about $11.
Put the hollow part on "your" half of the tube and the part with the clip in the suit.... this provides a third level of protection beyond the screw and one-way valve should you decide to dive disconnected.
It also allows you to use an unbalanced valve and keep dry if you forgot and left the screw in the truck AND forgot the Rochesters :)
Is the second one on this page the part you're talking about, Rich?
http://www.camelbak.com/rec/acc_other.cfm
I can definitely see the functionality, but wouldn't you still want a Quick Disconnect? It doesn't seem like this one would attach or detach very easily.
Rick
RichLockyer
May 21st, 2003, 02:31 AM
GearHead once bubbled...
http://www.camelbak.com/rec/acc_other.cfm
I can definitely see the functionality, but wouldn't you still want a Quick Disconnect? It doesn't seem like this one would attach or detach very easily.
Hmm... No, that's not it. Now I'm going to have to look to see if a Camelback competitor has shown up. Mine is white with a grey button. I thought it was a Camelback, but honestly, I only saw it on the rack with Camelback accessories and I just grabbed it, bought it, and tossed the packaging as soon as I got it home.
RichLockyer
May 21st, 2003, 02:39 AM
GearHead once bubbled...
I can definitely see the functionality, but wouldn't you still want a Quick Disconnect? It doesn't seem like this one would attach or detach very easily.
Here it is.
I found it at Bikeworld.com. Search for "coupler" or "hydration".
You want the "Quick Release 3/8" Coupler"
GearHead
May 21st, 2003, 02:52 AM
RichLockyer once bubbled...
Here it is.
I found it at Bikeworld.com. Search for "coupler" or "hydration".
You want the "Quick Release 3/8" Coupler"
I'm glad I asked. Thanks for including the pic!
Rick
BigJetDriver
May 31st, 2003, 01:07 PM
[SIZE=3][FONT=times new roman][COLOR=darkblue]
Gee whiz (so to speak)!
I never would have thought the subject of Pee Valves was so complex. I have the version from DUI, installed by them. It works well and is very simplistic.
As for the catheters, does anyone on the list know where to find a US company that specializes in those for the active-lifesyle disabled? There is a German company, but the web-site is in German, and I suspect they would be hard to obtain!
grouchyturtle
June 28th, 2004, 11:37 AM
Bike World doesn't carry them anymore.
Also, the ones from US plastics probably have a higher working pressure. And most importantly both ends of the valve have a shut off.
Part #s:
60688
60813
They have other ones too that are a little bit of a lower working pressure, but only about $1 less. I'd say it's worth the few extra bucks.
RichLockyer
June 28th, 2004, 03:34 PM
[SIZE=3][FONT=times new roman][COLOR=darkblue]As for the catheters, does anyone on the list know where to find a US company that specializes in those for the active-lifesyle disabled? There is a German company, but the web-site is in German, and I suspect they would be hard to obtain!
I buy Rochester Widebands from www.sportaid.com . About $150 for a case of 100. They've got a pretty complete line.
RichLockyer
June 28th, 2004, 03:43 PM
Also, the ones from US plastics probably have a higher working pressure. And most importantly both ends of the valve have a shut off.
I'm not too keen on having both ends shut off. Many prefer the non-shutoff variety, as it is no worse than what you had before... you just have to be careful when you disconnect that you can catch any drippings.
I like to have the suit side shut off as an extra measure of protection should a checkvalve fail, but I can still go on the boat without having to remove the hose from the cath.
Here's the McMaster info:
5012K83 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling, Socket For 3/8" Tube Id, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off 1 Each
5012K72 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling, Plug For 3/8"TUBE Id, 1/4" Coupler, Straight Thru 1 Each
Total was around $10 or $12 (will-call).
This type is a little more solid than the Camelback type, as the release is a stainless tab, rather than plastic. I was a little worried about it chaffing the suit, but when it is connected, the edges of the stainless are completely flush. When it is disconnected there is an edge, but you can push down on the trip pin inside the valve and release the clip so it snaps back to flush.
It's hard to tell from the photo on the McMaster page... it makes it look like the stainless tab is a cheap piece of spring steel, but it is stamped from a very solid 1/8 or 3/32 sheet stock.
grouchyturtle
June 28th, 2004, 03:50 PM
Wouldn't it be better to have both ends shut off though. That way there are no drippings fromthe cath or the valve?
RichLockyer
June 28th, 2004, 04:26 PM
Wouldn't it be better to have both ends shut off though. That way there are no drippings fromthe cath or the valve?
If you prefer that, a shutoff version of the male portion is available on the same McMaster catalog page.
I need to have mine open. Rather than going out on commercial dive boats, I dive from my buddy's boat, and our SI's are often hours long rather than an hour or so. Being able to "go" during SI's is a requirement.
I like to stay "rigged" the full day, as it is sometimes difficult to get good adhesion of the cath more than a few hours after the morning shower, and especially after a dive or two.
grouchyturtle
June 28th, 2004, 04:42 PM
Oh yeah very good point I didn't even think of that. On the boats that usually isn't a problem, but shore dives, quarry, etc. we do tend to take very long SIs sometimes.
Damn like most things in diving it is a trade off! risk of dripping vs. not being able to go.
Thanks, you changed my mind. That would have been an expensive mistake. The polar ones are much cheaper too!
By the way, how do you clean the hose at the end of the day? After removing everything rinse the disconnect body and insert, then connect it and run water through I assume would be the easiest way?
RichLockyer
June 28th, 2004, 04:51 PM
By the way, how do you clean the hose at the end of the day? After removing everything rinse the disconnect body and insert, then connect it and run water through I assume would be the easiest way?
Ya... blow water through it with the regular gear cleanup routine while I'm flushing the suit valves, then a flush with white vinegar once every month or two when I go through the "routine maintenance" day where I do more in-depth checks of the entire kit, flush the wing with a mild bleach solution, completely soak the drysuit (if it wasn't soaked after the last trip).
grouchyturtle
June 28th, 2004, 08:29 PM
Thanks Rich, finally ordered them. Much cheaper from McMaster too!
US Plastic is over 1.5x the price, mainly because they screw you on shipping!
$20.46 for (2) sets including shipping. US Plastic, even with their highest discount, which means ordering at least 120 still costs about $1 more, at their lowest discount level, 20, it costs over $3 more. Anything below 20 and it's $6 more. Plus theirs are all plastic, no SS tabs.
RichLockyer
June 28th, 2004, 11:05 PM
Thanks Rich, finally ordered them. Much cheaper from McMaster too!
McMaster is a good company. I buy a lot of my dive gear there :)
Seriously... all of the parts for the four sets of spring straps I've made came from there except for the cave line and clear tubing (Reef Scuba and Home Depot), I've bought rods and blocks of Delrin for various experiments, they're a very reasonable source for O-rings, except that for Buna, you're looking at quantities of 100 for anything smaller than a canister light lid. Viton is a little more expensive, but still priced at the same for a 5-25 pack as what the LDS gets for ONE.
For me, the best thing about McMaster is they're only about 30 miles away, so I can place a will-call order on Thursday and pick it up Friday afternoon or Saturday morning (I think they open at 6) so I can work on a project on Saturday.
With online orders, if I place an order any time after Tuesday, pretty much noon California time, it won't make it to me for the weekend unless I pay a premium for next-day. Half the time my 2nd day shipments end up arriving on Mondays because UPS doesn't count the pickup day, and charge even more yet to deliver on Saturday.
Next day is rarely worth it, unless it's a vendor that generally hoses you on normal ground shipping, then for some reason it's only 2 bucks more for next day :rolleyes:
grouchyturtle
June 29th, 2004, 08:13 AM
Wow I didn't realize they sold all that other stuff. Gotta ad them to my favorites (right next to Reef Scuba).
At BTS in March the first booth we stopped at was Reef Scuba.
We must have spent nearly an hour there!
Dillen
July 4th, 2005, 06:56 AM
We have done it our selves and found out that this product was designed well.
But the O-ring and valve seat were very bad produced. Leaks were the result.
THe O-ring was glued !!! and the closure was just on top of the plastic valve closure. When closing the valve this rubber valve closure got trapped and caused leaks.
