Short doubles

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

jawmendr

Registered
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles
# of dives
500 - 999
For open water NDC diving, What do any of you think about twin steel 65's. The buoyancy characteristics are comparable to Worthington 100's. They are 16 lbs lighter dry weight. I enjoy the twin configuration, redundancy etc. I am concerned about trim?? I dive dry and use a backplate and IQ pak. Is there a distinct disadvantage to such short tanks?
 
Last edited:
I dive small doubles, just because I can.

DSCF0593.jpg


N
 
For open water NDC diving, What do any of you think about twin steel 65's. The buoyancy characteristics are comparable to Worthington 100's. They are 16 lbs lighter dry weight. I enjoy the twin configuration, redundancy etc. I am concerned about trim?? I dive dry and use a backplate and IQ pak. Is there a distinct disadvantage to such short tanks?

Pretty much any tanks **can** be doubled up, and when properly set up can be useful / fun to dive.

OTOH, shorter tanks can make life difficult for the new to doubles diver. Most new doubles dives are heads down. The added weight of the manifold and dual regs high on the body is the usual cause.

Longer tanks help offset this, as does a wing with more lift near the shoulders and less near the waist.

Short tanks also increase the risk of wing damage due to the wing folding back under the lower end of the bottles when donning or doffing. It's better to have tanks that are longer than the wing.

Lastly, don't be seduced by the lighter "dry weight", look at the actual buoyancy numbers. You need enough total ballast, with empty bottles, to offset the buoyancy of your exposure suit = 2-3 lbs. Nothing is gained with "Light" tanks if you need to add lead to reach the necessary total ballast numbers.

Tobin
 
The Dive Rite Trek wing works good with small doubles, it is very short and gives more lift at the top.
 
Or no BC at all or a horsecollar.

I don't wear them hiked up behind my head so therefore head down trim is not a problem. They balance pretty good and sit nicely on the leaning post on the little Whaler as I ready.

N
 
Pretty much any tanks **can** be doubled up, and when properly set up can be useful / fun to dive.

OTOH, shorter tanks can make life difficult for the new to doubles diver. Most new doubles dives are heads down. The added weight of the manifold and dual regs high on the body is the usual cause.

Longer tanks help offset this, as does a wing with more lift near the shoulders and less near the waist.

Short tanks also increase the risk of wing damage due to the wing folding back under the lower end of the bottles when donning or doffing. It's better to have tanks that are longer than the wing.

Lastly, don't be seduced by the lighter "dry weight", look at the actual buoyancy numbers. You need enough total ballast, with empty bottles, to offset the buoyancy of your exposure suit = 2-3 lbs. Nothing is gained with "Light" tanks if you need to add lead to reach the necessary total ballast numbers.

Tobin

I'd have to echo Tobin's thoughts here. All good observations/advice.

Short steel doubles can mess with trim. We have double 10L steels here at some sites and they can be a chore for some, especially in drysuit....
 

Back
Top Bottom