Jorgy
Contributor
OK, so I've been a SB lurker for many years, so here goes my first post. First I must say, SB has been such a great source of information and answered so many of my questions, my deepest thanks to all those who post on it and allow us to read their threads.
About me, diving since 2001, now have almost 400 dives. About a year ago I bought a G9 with Canon housing, went to Bonaire where I took a course from Fish-Eye Photo (great class, well worth the money). Thanks to them and the rental strobe my pictures went from the classic beginner blue/green to real live color and I have been hooked ever since. Now my setup includes two Sea & Sea YS-110 strobes (one orange and one gray - gotta have lots of light for color), triggered via fiber optic cable. I use Photoshop Elements 6 to edit the RAW files (to crop and some enhancing). I really like the setup; it is small enough to go with me on every dive. I fold the strobes over the camera and clip it to my D-ring, I dive a hog harnessed plate with 18 lb wing, and I don't even know it is there until some unsuspecting fish is my next victim...subject..I mean.
In a continuing effort to improve (who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks), I am looking for feedback on my pictures, techniques, camera/flash settings or any other useful tips.
I shoot RAW, all manual, basically leaving the aperture and shutter speed alone (unless macro or night diving) and use the manual adjustments on the strobes to get the correct exposure. This mean I often take three shots - one over exposed, one under exposed then just right (like some story with bears).....er, I mean 33 shots, I forgot 30 shots of no fish, fish backsides, turned fish, part-of-fish, out-of-focus fish, got-bored-and-left-the-reef-while-Mike-fiddles-with-his-camera-fish, etc
Camera settings ISO 100, F - 5.6 to 8.0, shutter speed 1/125, AF mode continuous with spot metering, image stabilization continuous, AF frame flexizone, in the center, internal flash turned down to 1/3 power (lowest), digital zoom off, saving RAW files, macro normally on.
Strobe settings Manual 2 (no pre-flash) and then use the 13 step manual control, diffusers on the strobes.
My biggest issue (actually, I have many, just ask my friends and family, but for this post, related only to underwater photography) is focus. Speed of focus and getting the subject if the picture in focus. The pictures look awesome on the camera's 3 inch screen but when I get home they are fuzzy when blown up. Does anyone know what the depth of field is for a G9 at the various aperture settings?
Also, still seem to get some backscatter the FO cable is secured to the housing with a big piece of Velcro that covers the entire upper right corner of the housing and a pull the strobes out as far as the arms will go.
Please take a look at the pictures below - comments please.
Thanks, Mike J.
About me, diving since 2001, now have almost 400 dives. About a year ago I bought a G9 with Canon housing, went to Bonaire where I took a course from Fish-Eye Photo (great class, well worth the money). Thanks to them and the rental strobe my pictures went from the classic beginner blue/green to real live color and I have been hooked ever since. Now my setup includes two Sea & Sea YS-110 strobes (one orange and one gray - gotta have lots of light for color), triggered via fiber optic cable. I use Photoshop Elements 6 to edit the RAW files (to crop and some enhancing). I really like the setup; it is small enough to go with me on every dive. I fold the strobes over the camera and clip it to my D-ring, I dive a hog harnessed plate with 18 lb wing, and I don't even know it is there until some unsuspecting fish is my next victim...subject..I mean.
In a continuing effort to improve (who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks), I am looking for feedback on my pictures, techniques, camera/flash settings or any other useful tips.
I shoot RAW, all manual, basically leaving the aperture and shutter speed alone (unless macro or night diving) and use the manual adjustments on the strobes to get the correct exposure. This mean I often take three shots - one over exposed, one under exposed then just right (like some story with bears).....er, I mean 33 shots, I forgot 30 shots of no fish, fish backsides, turned fish, part-of-fish, out-of-focus fish, got-bored-and-left-the-reef-while-Mike-fiddles-with-his-camera-fish, etc
Camera settings ISO 100, F - 5.6 to 8.0, shutter speed 1/125, AF mode continuous with spot metering, image stabilization continuous, AF frame flexizone, in the center, internal flash turned down to 1/3 power (lowest), digital zoom off, saving RAW files, macro normally on.
Strobe settings Manual 2 (no pre-flash) and then use the 13 step manual control, diffusers on the strobes.
My biggest issue (actually, I have many, just ask my friends and family, but for this post, related only to underwater photography) is focus. Speed of focus and getting the subject if the picture in focus. The pictures look awesome on the camera's 3 inch screen but when I get home they are fuzzy when blown up. Does anyone know what the depth of field is for a G9 at the various aperture settings?
Also, still seem to get some backscatter the FO cable is secured to the housing with a big piece of Velcro that covers the entire upper right corner of the housing and a pull the strobes out as far as the arms will go.
Please take a look at the pictures below - comments please.
Thanks, Mike J.
Attachments
-
Chac Mool Exit with Jordan.jpg403.7 KB · Views: 371
-
Cleaner Shrimp 2.jpg263.6 KB · Views: 305
-
Fish Looking Out 5.jpg403 KB · Views: 282
-
Fish with Orange Coral.jpg289.1 KB · Views: 301
-
Jordan over Coral.jpg402.3 KB · Views: 322
-
Parrot Fish.jpg389 KB · Views: 466
-
Small Fish.jpg433.1 KB · Views: 281
-
Turtle.jpg389.9 KB · Views: 284
-
Two Fish.jpg415.5 KB · Views: 255