Choosing 2 spots to dive in Costa Rica

[underseahunter]

Hey everybody.

I have been reading about spots to go on the mainland of Costa Rica. My trip is short and in the first weeks of december. Besides Cocos Island, what are some advanced dives to see the big critters? BTW btdt three times to Cocos on M/V Seahunter.
I have imagined that two days on each coast, but where? My itenerary is such that presumably I will crossing the Panamanian border on the east coast first. I have heard that the diving Puerto Viejo is very typical of the caribbean... lots of small fish and coral, but devoid of large schools of fish, and breathtaking walls or structure. On the west coast I have heard that Flamingo is the best jumping off point to go to the islands nearby offshore. I will defer to anyones experiences and input.
Diving every weekend in Florida is nice, but I want to see what else is out there.
Thanks in advance. C

[ScubaSam]

When I was in Costa Rica in 2008, I dove Catalina and Bats Island, we saw manta rays, white-tipped sharks and bull sharks. Check the time of year you're going with the LDS to make sure they are running boats to Bats or Catalina Island.

DM suggested for my return trip I do Cano Island on the Pacific side of the country, he said it's the best diving in Costa Rica. I've never done Cocos Island but hear it's also amazing for spotting larger marine life.

[HerraduraDivers]

underseahunter,
the diving conditions can vary quite quick so you may contact the dive shops one week before to check for the current conditions.

I would suggest to stay on the pacific coast if you wan't to see big fishes.
Do a search here about diving the carribean coast of Costa Rica and take your decision if
it's worth for you to "waste" one day driving to the opposite coast.

Let me know your schedule and i can help you to fit all your needs together.

Best regards

Chris Karrer

[underseahunter]

Chris Karrer,
I think a bad day diving is better than a good day at work... That being said I don't want to raise the ire of anyone in Puerto Viejo, and impune their dive sites... without seeing them first hand.
Yes, I am a bit spoiled in that I have dove some awesome spots here in florida, cocos island, and almost all over the caribbean.

Originally, I had indeed planned to waste a day driving/busing up from colon panama to cross the costa rican border at sixaola (south eastern caribbean coast). My cuise ship can also drop me off a day earlier in Limon so I can have an extra day in CR. Thus avoiding the road trip I just spoke about...
So I have a pitiful five days in CR. My last trip there was for 36 days, 20 of which were on the liveaboard. So I now plan to take the bus from limon to san jose, pick up a rental car, and make a "beeline" first either to cano area, or to catalina/bat area. This time of year (december 2009) I have heard that there are likely to be schools of mantas in catalina/bat islands.
I understand the two premier areas to dive are the ones I just listed. After looking at the weather maps I see that the south western area (cano) gets 240 inches of rain a year. And the Catalina/bat area just 40-60 inches a year. Runoff causin bad viz? It does here in florida even though we have the super strong gulfstream current... it can still take days to move the dirty water up from miami past palm beach county where I live...
So given that I really only three days of diving. The first day travelling west and the last 24hrs offgasing before I fly... I am trying to decide on where to stay and where to dive.
I see that from your signature that you are in "playa herradura." I see that y'all are close to jaco?

What do you think of my ideas and plans? With particular emphasis on going first to cano.

I am looking at the deals that include car and hotels on a seemingly comprehensive travel site called " vacationcity dot com " They have very little to offer in drake bay however...

Thank you in advance for your candor, and any advice you may have.

Sincerely,
C

[HerraduraDivers]

Underseahunter,
i am sorry for the delay but i was some days away.

I meant wasting a day regarding driving from one coast to the other (and back) and not because diving in the cariibean coast of Costa Rica is a waste.

As you arrive al Puerto Limon and have 5 days there are this solutions:
1. Get a Taxi to Puerto Viejo, dive there 3 days and relax
2. Get the Plane (or a rental car) and fly/drive to Playas del Coco or Flamingo, dive there 3 days and relax
3. Get a car and drive to Herradura/Jaco, dive and relax
3. Get the Plane Puerto Limon - San Jose - Bahia Drake and then Bahia Drake - San Jose - Tamarind/Liberia - San Jose.
So you can dive Isla del Caņo and Islas Catalinas,
but it's almost impossible to do that by car due that each destination is more than 10 hour to drive from the other.
Be informed that you will need to book your flight ASAP in case that you opt for this solution!
Yes, river runoff of can greatly influence viz, but algea and plancton can greatly influence viz as well!
I dove whole Costa Rica and worked in Playas del Coco and my experience was that there is nowhere a guarantee that viz will be more than 20 foot.
The only place i know where viz is mostly good is Isla del Caņo due his particular position and currents bringing clean water up from the south.
Bahia Drake has 3 dive resorts and enough other accomodations to cover a price range between 20$ and 200$ per night.

Best regards

Chris Karrer

[Missdirected]

Definitely take the lil plane. It's cheap and you are there before you know it.

[ibj40]

When I was in Costa Rica in 2008, I dove Catalina and Bats Island, we saw manta rays, white-tipped sharks and bull sharks. Check the time of year you're going with the LDS to make sure they are running boats to Bats or Catalina Island.

DM suggested for my return trip I do Cano Island on the Pacific side of the country, he said it's the best diving in Costa Rica. I've never done Cocos Island but hear it's also amazing for spotting larger marine life.


We did these dives in May of 2007. From what I understand, the weather/off-shore conditions are best for these from April to around July or so, and then after that it might get a little too bumpy off-shore to get to Bat Island for the Bull Sharks:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-9/49507/NXAEF-BullShark-1.jpg

:cool2:

[underseahunter]

Thank you all for your experienced input.

For some reason I did not get the "notice" from this board or my email until just now...

So I have already made my arrangements as follows.

Day1 Disembark at Limon 9am take bus to Guapiles, get rental car and drive to La Fortuna.
Day 2 Drive around Arenal and lake road on the way to Flamingo to check in.
Day 3 Go diving catalinas/bat islands
Day 4 same as above.
Day 5 Maybe one or two tanks, then drive to San Jose.
Day 6 Return rental car and fly home.

Now as to specific operators for Potrero and Flamingo...
Anybody have any feedback on operators, level of diving, and travel time out the islands?

Please post here, and thank you all for your informed help.

Lastly I am drooling to dive Cano and think that it will have to wait until my next trip to CR.
Maybe...

Thanks
C

[underseahunter]

Chris,
What airlines is the local puddle jumper from SJO or LIO to drake bay? In case I am saturated with nitrogen can I get the plane to fly low? :)
Thanks,
C

[HerraduraDivers]

Underseahunter,
the local Airlines are:
Costa Rica Airline, Domestic Flights - Sansa REGIONAL Airlines (http://www.flysansa.com)
Costa Rica Airlines - Airline Flights in Costa Rica (http://www.natureair.com)
There is a charter airline AlfaRomeoAir.com - Alfa Romeo Air Charter Service (http://www.alfaromeoair.com/) and they may do Tamarindo - Bahia Drake low and direct, but it will be costly i guess.

No, you can't get Sansa/Natuerair to fly low and you have to do a stop over in San Jose (3000 feet), so consider at least 12 hour offgassing befor flying.

Chris

[Rich Coast Diving]

The bat islnads is not in season in December the ocean is too choppy. We do offer the Catalina islands, to see the manta rays.

There is a direct bus from San jose to Coco and it takes 5 hours and only cost $6 The plane is about $85 one way to Liberia airport (about 20 minutes form Playas del Coco)

if you need more info let us know.

Brenda

[underseahunter]

Well despite the enthusiasm of the local dive operators it is always manana, manana, and o jes the visibility is fantastico. Ummm, who ate all the fish? and where are all the manta rays? I have ten times better diving in Palm beach, although I cannot flault the local operators for the weather, the viz, the lack of fish... but at least the beers are cold, but I got stuck with only 3 days diving so far an NO ONE can be faulted for that... So I guess will have to goto Cocos ISland again.

Pura Vida, hasta luego, tres mas Imperials por favor.

Despite my gloomy report (SO FAR from in country) I have taken some nice pictures, and once they widen the panama canal and all the caribbean water spills west the vix might improve to 50 feet.

C

[HerraduraDivers]

It seems that you where the wrong time on the wrong place considering the wrong dive shop...

I am sorry to hear that, because Costa Rica Dive Shops are usually not like that, but "black sheeps" can be found everywhere.

Chris Karrer

[underseahunter]

To whom it may concern,
Let me be perfectly clear. I will jump into any body of water at any time "to get my SCUBA on." When traveling I am forced to trust the local knowledge of the local dive operators. If you came here to Palm Beach I can tell you by the tide, the date, the time, the current at the sea bouy, and (by peeking over the side) approx. the viz... Then where EXACTLY we should choose to dive to get the best spots with the best viz, current and overall conditions... Plus if there is one cattle boat NOT going out, THEY will tell you which other boat IS going out, and help you get on SOME boat, so you can get in the water SOMEWHERE, SOMEHOW. It's all about the diving, and we are a community of enthusiasts for a sport. I know people have to run a business, but look up the word "schadenfreude" at dictionary dot com, and you will know what to watch out for...

In and around the Catalina Islands of Costa Rica I will be loud and clear in singing my positive praise for "Ralf at Brindisicr.com (diving fishing atvs etcetera)" and "Barbara and Harald at costarica-diving.com" They are friendly and are a true credit to the sport of SCUBA! Choose them any day any time over any one else in Flamingo, costa rica and they will get you in the water for the best dives, that the conditions will allow! SUPER NICE PEOPLE TO DEAL WITH!

I know people have to run a business, but look up the word "schadenfreude" at dictionary dot com, and you will know what to watch out for...
Because I will not ever speak of anyone diving with a place that is attached to a defunct marina and a bar full of monkeys. They might re-open the marina by the next century and the bar might be fine and good, but and I mean a very big BUTT...

In all my travels and dives around the world I have only ever met 2 "divearses" one was in LaPaguerra, Puerto Rico (15,000 fsw wall) and the other was in Flamingo Costa Rica. With regard to Costa Rica though since anyone searching for info about CR is likely to run accross this thread...

I am sure that there are good people and bad people everywhere, and opinions are like arse wholes, everybody has one, and here is why mine was in a pucker in Flamingo Costa Rica...

First of all we were told that we can stay down for only 40 minutes? Come on you have got to be kidding? People who have computers know this is puny amount of time. We are not diving off the Navy Dive Tables anymore... forty minutes is barely enough time to get wet.

On a "sloping wall" we went to maybe ~116fsw and slowly ascended as we circled the pinnacle like stucture. I surfaced after about 47 minutes with ~1400lbs of air left in my tank! Now understand that I was buddied up with another very experienced diver who spoke a language that NO ONE on the boat could understand, including myself. Based on her having brought all her gear all the way from europe, and her listing of the places she has been diving (no language barrier with geographic names obviously) her age, and the number of years she has been diving as shown on her c-card I said, "sure I'll be her buddy." Well on the first dive my buddy ended up with a 5 or 6 minute decompression obligation, I had none. (((I carry one old and one new dive computer whichever one tells me the safest amount of time, is the one I follow))) Apparently the other 3 divers (one a student, and one couple) had been back in the boat for quite a long time. The "Divearse" jumps into the water and gesticulates that we should surface... Myself not having any deco obligation, and having done a proper 3 minute safety stop, I signalled to my buddy to stay put, and I surfaced... I asked the divearse, "is that my buddy down there?" the divearse said "yes" I said, "you buddied me up with her and I am NOT leaving my buddy, she has 5-6 minutes of deco still to do, so I am going back down to keep her safe and accompanied." AM I RIGHT OR WRONG to have insisted on sticking with my buddy? Of course I am (even though I really don't believe in "buddy diving," but that is whole other matter of discussion).

So once we were back on the boat the "divearse" starts chewing out the poor woman, and me by default for staying down too long. EXCUSE ME? I have travelled all the way, carrying all my gear (except tanks and weights), and gone through all the effort and expense to only be allowed a 40 minute dive? %&*$(#*% that. I showed the "divearse" my buddy's gauge showing ~1400lbs of air, and mine ~1400+ lbs of air left. ????
Now I do understand about not getting back in the boat with less than 750-500 lbs as a matter of safety, but this was our first and deepest dive of a multi day trip. I WANT MAXIMUM BOTTOM TIME. That is why I carry a computer (2) in the first place. Now the people who had been on the boat after "huffing and puffing" all their air away in 20 minutes or less is NOT MY PROBLEM. I don't care how green they turn, or how many times they puke during their surface interval, why should I shorten my time in the water, becuase they are "flatlanders?" I believe getting seasick is good practice for it's avoidance in the future. I have fallen off a bicycle and a horse while learning how to ride, same thing with sea sickness right? Practice makes perfect? Or how about slapping on a patch or chewing one of them little pills, prior to going out to sea?
Oh and the coup de grace, for the second dive the "divearse" dumped us all onto like a 40fsw desert, where there was NOTHING to see, maybe a starfish (whee), just a nice surge, and turbid green water. The site is called "sombreros" because apparently it resembles a couple of mexican hats?

Notice that I have NOT named names of the offensive company or the "divearse" ... BUTT
Shouldn't there be a Dive Master to ride herd on all the divers, and shouldn't he/she be the last one out of the water? If there is a STUDENT on his/her check out dive, shouldn't the INSTRUCTOR be dedicated to that person, and not doing "double duty" as both Dive Master, and Dive Instructor? Hmmm....

FINALLY we (my aforementioned buddy too) got to dive with "Ralf at Brindisi" Total difference, he knew where all the sharks and rays were, stayed with us the whole time, and had a positive attitude about getting MAXIMUM BOTTOM TIME... NOW GET THIS what the original "divearse" did not tell us was that deeper off the flat area (on sombreros) is actually an area where the sharks hang out! Ralf knew this, and despite my skepticism at going to the "sombreros" again, he said "Don't worry you will see the sharks there, there is a "stepped ledge" and once we get down deeper (out of the 40fsw churned up desert) you will see... Ralf was right on.

So in conclusion, Thanks to Barbara and Harald, and to Ralf. NO THANKS to the divearse.

Sincerely,
underseahunter

[rob pillar]

Hello,
I am planning a trip to Costa Rica the first week in February. I am staying at the JW marriott Guanacoste and I have several questions.

1. The Marriott web site quotes a very high cost for transferrs from the Liberia airport is it best to rent a car?

2. We would like to dive for 3 days. I want to see giant manta rays. It seems like the best option is for the Catalina islands. Can someone suggest a reputable dive operator?

3. what else is there to do in the area?

[dzonokwa]

Hi Rob!
Can you give me a trip report? We are diving cano island and playa del cocos in July. Any positive or negative impressions? How did the in country air flights work out? I would love to read about the highlights. Thanks

[underseahunter]

In and around the Catalina Islands of Costa Rica I will be loud and clear in singing my positive praise for "Ralf at Brindisicr.com (diving fishing atvs etcetera)" and "Barbara and Harald at costarica-diving.com" They are friendly and are a true credit to the sport of SCUBA! Choose them any day any time over any one else in Flamingo, costa rica and they will get you in the water for the best dives, that the conditions will allow! SUPER NICE PEOPLE TO DEAL WITH!

[yasminrlee]

I reccomend Playas del Coco for easy access to the Bat and Catalina Islands. I did the most phenomenal Manta dive at the Cats the other day, they were circling us and playing in our bubbles for 25 minutes. Summer Salt Dive Centre is a great choice, proffessional and friendly,
cheers
Yaz
Summer-salt.com

[Leejnd]

Underseahunter, I realize this thread is a few months old, but I am planning a dive trip to Costa Rica and am doing my research now. I understand your reticence to mention the offending dive op publicly, but that's what these forums are for - to tell us, your fellow divers, the good, bad and ugly TRUTH so we can make decisions based on the experiences of others.

I'm looking at dive ops in that area right now, and one of my biggest pet peeves is dive ops that limit your bottom time for no valid reason. I do NOT want to dive with anyone who does that. So I would really appreciate it if you would post who they were. If you really don't want to do so in the thread, then could you possibly tell me in a private message?

Thanks!

[vintagediver]

I just returned from Playa Herradura, del Coco, and Ocotal and would highly recommend both Herradura Divers and Ocotal Resorts dive shop. Bat and Catalina are great for large animal encounters. Visability in Jaco is challenging this time of year but there were Eagle Rays, White Tips, and Mantas wherever you go. Great trip.

[yasminrlee]

Hi Leejnd,

Iīm Diving with Summer Salt Dive Centre at Playas del Coco at the moment,
Yesterday and the day before I did 2 dives of 94 and 93 minutes respectively. There is no reason to limit bottom time uneccesarily and at Summer Salt they donīt believe in doing this. Whoever you choose to dive with, I reccomend you specify beforehand that you would like maximum bottom time before you dive and then they can put sufficient backup guides etc on the boat to deal with your bottom time needs.

Cheers
Yasmin

Welcome to Summer Salt Dive Center in Playas des Coco, Costa Rica | Summer Salt (http://www.summer-salt.com)

[Leejnd]

Thanks for the heads up. Actually we've already been diving in Costa Rica twice, but both times were in the southern area (Drakes Bay, Isla del Cano). So this time we're planning on spending our time in Guanacaste, at Playa del Coco. This is going to be over the Christmas holiday, and my understanding is that Bat Island is not accessible for diving at that time of year, although Catalina island is.

Dive ops I'm currently considering include Rich Coast, Deep Blue Diving, and costarica-diving. But a key factor for me is that I do NOT want to experience what the OP of this thread experienced. We are very independent divers - we live in Southern California and do most of our diving locally in Malibu, either off the beach or from our local dive boats, or occasionally off our own sailboat. Here in SoCal, the dive boats don't send DMs with you in the water - you are expected to bring a buddy, plan your own dive, and dive on your own. While we've been on plenty of resort-type dives, where they send a DM with you and you are expected to stay with the DM, we expect to be allowed our full bottom time, and not have our dive time limited by either newbie hoover divers, or a DM who wants to shorten OUR dives so he'll have enough NDL time to take other people out later in the day. I've read in several threads now that this appears to be in trend in Costa Rica, and we refuse to go along with that. As the OP says in his post above, if we're going to go to all the trouble to travel across the continent, hauling our gear and paying big bucks to go diving, we expect to be allowed our full dive time.

I'm sending emails to all the operators I'm considering, to get their feedback on that and confirm that they won't do that to us. But I would REALLY love to know which dive op Undersea Hunter had such a bad experience with!

[Leejnd]

Hi Yasmin,

I just saw your post, after I posted my last post. Can you tell me what you like about Summer Salt? I definitely like those bottom times! :) I'll add them to the list of dive ops to consider. Thanks!

[yasminrlee]

Hi LeeAnne,
I like summer salt because they are a very small family run company, who try to cater to the needs of individual divers. The boats are small but very fast, which means they have access to a very large number of dive sites in comparisson to other local operators. If they have a customer who is repeat diving with them, they will always try to take them to new sites, even if it means going out of their way. The owners are swiss and are a very kind couple.

If you are with a group that run out of air, then providing that you discuss it with the DM beforehand, there will be no problem with you staying down with your buddy until you need to come up. Also they can arrange trips to the Cats and the Bats depending on the season, the Cats are spectacular at the moment, full of mantas!

I hope this helps and if you have any specific questions I reccomend that you contact the owner directly patrick@summer-salt.com

Cheers
Yaz

[underseahunter]

leejnd,

Because I will not ever speak of anyone diving with a place that is attached to a defunct marina and a bar full of monkeys. They might re-open the marina by the next century and the bar might be fine and good, but and I mean a very big BUTT...
In and around the Catalina Islands of Costa Rica I will be loud and clear in singing my positive praise for "Ralf at Brindisicr.com (diving fishing atvs etcetera)" and "Barbara and Harald at costarica-diving.com"
Like I said I will not name the place by name, nor the "divearse" I encountered there. I am sure a lot of people have had good dives with those "arse-monkeys" But any web search you do will pull up results that the clues I left should be apparent.

I hope y'all get some great dives in!

There is a really neat place, about a mile from the marina. "villagio flor de pacifico" it had really cool cottages (with kitchenettes) to stay. Huge swimming pools, and lots of super nice Italians. There is gated security, and really tranquil at night. Also a MUST see is a place "las Brisas" a bar/disco/rest. with great food, super cold Imperials, and one night a week a bonfire party right on the beach! CHECK IT OUT most definitely.

To conclude, call the people I do mention by name, they will bend overbackwards to get you in the water and have LOTS of bottom time... which is why we dive in the first place right?

Have fun, be safe, and come back to this thread and post.

Sincerely,
underseahunter

[Leejnd]

Okay well unfortunately I must be dense because I'm trying everything I can think of and I simply am not picking up on your clues. I don't know what marina in Costa Rica is defunct, and the only dive shop I can find connected to the "Monkey Bar" in Flamingo is costarica-diving.com, which you are singing praises about so it can't be them. So I give up.

I'll PM you. I am researching all of the local dive shops right now, and while they are saying great things to me in email, that could be just talk. I do want to avoid your experience.

[underseahunter]

Here is a post with my waypoints for diving the Catalina Islands in Costa Rica. For the real Geeks with GPS tech ability I can provide lat/lon co-ordinates so you can pre-program your GPS like I did:

I stayed at "The Villagio Flor De Pacifico" AWESOME Cottages:
(( Costa Rica - Villaggi Flor de Pacifico (http://www.flordepacifico.com/en/default.cfm) )).

Ate and partied at "Las Brisas" good food, super cold beers, and chicas caliente:
(( Las Brisas Potrero Bar y Restaurante in Playa Potrero, Costa Rica (http://www.1-costaricalink.com/business_l/las_brisas_potrero_restaurante.htm) )).

Most importantly, had extra long bottom times with Brindisi : ((// Brindisi - Sportfishing // (http://www.brindisicr.com/) ))....

My sincerest advice is to rent a Toyota Yarus (good hill climbing ability). Pay a visit to your personal car insurance agent prior to departing the U.S.A and get a copy of your policy... so that if you have good insurance (not just P.I.P.) AND you book your rental using AMEX Gold on their travel site... you MAY be able to decline the crazy extra insurance that C.R. companies MAKE you get. I call it " anti-pedestrian wandering into traffic insurance." Apparently the natives dress like ninjas at night and wander into oncoming traffic. Especially in front of rental cars driven by Gringos. Kind of a joke, but NOT... it can add $100 or more to your rental for a week... and if you do as I merely suggest, you can avoid buying "double coverage" since you already pay insurance here, and the AMEX GOLD travel reservation avoids the need for a L.D.W. just saying. I have been , dove, and driven all over the planet. No pedestrians hit,,, UNINTENTIONALLY :no:

Don't forget to bring a towel.
Here is the google earth photo...

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n217/underseahunter/bahiapotrero.jpg