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Colson
February 8th, 2010, 07:13 PM
Hi everyone, Iím back after a 4 year break from Scubaboard and Iíve got a question for everyone.

Iím switching to BP/W shortly and have been searching for a good canister light. Iíve come across two lights that Iíd like your opinions on as well as what you dive with and would recommend.

OMS Phantom 3 LED
Light Monkey 12W LED

FYI, Iím a Northwest diver that frequents the dark, cold waters of the Puget Sound and I don't do underwater photography.

Thanks for your input!

Peter_C
February 8th, 2010, 07:17 PM
Light Monkey! Read the reviews and how their customer service sets the bar and it is an easy decision. Let alone their product is top notch with features not found in other dive lights. Since the battery pack can most likely not flood that right there is another top reason for Light Monkey.

I have a 21 watt HID and can not imagine having less light in poor vis conditions. LED is becoming the wave of the future, but brighter is better.

TSandM
February 8th, 2010, 07:42 PM
I'm a Light Monkey customer for life. They make very good lights, but when they have problems (as all dive lights inevitably do) the customer service is simply above and beyond.

The 12W LED is an adequate light for the Sound, although the 21W HID has more "punch" for our algae blooms. But the LED has the advantages of being able to be turned on and off at will, and not having a ballast.

Hope that's helpful.

Lynne Colson Flaherty

keithdiver
February 8th, 2010, 07:47 PM
Save yourself $ and aggrevation Colson, go with the lightmonkey, you will be happy you did!! Ther are 3 of us getting the 21watt HID, and we are really looking forward to them, do to the fact that we have heard nothing but great things, as said also by LYNN .

rongoodman
February 8th, 2010, 07:50 PM
I'm a Light Monkey customer for life. They make very good lights, but when they have problems (as all dive lights inevitably do) the customer service is simply above and beyond.

The 12W LED is an adequate light for the Sound, although the 21W HID has more "punch" for our algae blooms. But the LED has the advantages of being able to be turned on and off at will, and not having a ballast.

Hope that's helpful.

Lynne Colson Flaherty

If you go with the 12W LED, I'd recommend the new improved Goodman handle, so that the light head won't be popping out.

Colson
February 8th, 2010, 08:36 PM
Okay, so it sounds like it's a Light Monkey. I like the idea of sticking with the durability of the LED, I may just bump up to the 21W LED Light Monkey for the extra "punch" to deal with the algae blooms.

Here's another question, what backup light would you suggest to compliment the LM 21W LED?

So far everyone's input has been great! Thanks!

StreetDoctor
February 8th, 2010, 08:36 PM
I'd go with at least 21W and stick to HID, The LED even in 21W form will not have the same "punch". I've beaten the crap out of my Salvo 21W HID (sticking it in the mud, dropping it off the bumper of my xterra, etc.) and it hasn't gave me even the slightest hiccup. Light Monkey or Halcyon IMO.

Colson
February 8th, 2010, 08:46 PM
I'd go with at least 21W and stick to HID, The LED even in 21W form will not have the same "punch". I've beaten the crap out of my Salvo 21W HID (sticking it in the mud, dropping it off the bumper of my xterra, etc.) and it hasn't gave me even the slightest hiccup. Light Monkey or Halcyon IMO.

That sounds promising for the durability of HID. How long have you been beating the crap out of it?

adm3745
February 8th, 2010, 08:54 PM
for backups I love the Intova 4.7w LEDS. THey have a really tight beam and are very bright. Oh ya and they are only $40.00 on divegearexpress.com .

StreetDoctor
February 8th, 2010, 09:56 PM
That sounds promising for the durability of HID. How long have you been beating the crap out of it?

About 120 dives. Dropped it off my bumper onto the gravel this morning and then went ahead and did a Tech 1 dive with it. :)

a22shady
February 8th, 2010, 10:52 PM
I dive here in the Northeast cold dark waters also. after alot of research I got the Halcyon Explorer 21watt with 9AH battery and very happy with it. but my choice was between Halcyon and Light Monkey both Make fantastic lights from what I seen Just got a better deal as Halcyon had a special Promo going on Couldn't say no. LED's are great lights untill you begin to hit murky/dirty water where viz is less then great. If you go with HID get the 21watt you will be happy you did

jbb
February 16th, 2010, 11:11 PM
I like my 10w focusable HID from Salvo (Leviathon, now I think) just fine for Puget Sound. I have a Dive Right too but I like the design and durability of the Salvo. They really protect the battery from flood damage. No experience with the Light Monkey but curious. The best product is the one you don't every have to send to the manufacturer. I must say Dive Rite took care of me nicely after my light flooded - rebuilt the head to the 15w.

O.k. just looked at the Light Monkey site - looks just like the Salvos especially the little light monkey 2w led lights - i have the rat jr. backup lights i like so much from Salvo. Same, same only different????

a22shady
February 16th, 2010, 11:47 PM
Light monkey is Salvo. Same quality lights and same great service (So i heard)

Pullmyfinger
April 7th, 2010, 02:57 AM
I have a 12 watt LED light. It's my first cannister light so I have nothing else to compare to.
I do have a few different backup lights so I can make some comparisons.
I have two photon torpedo LED lights(3 C-cell), an Oxycheq raider (3 AA batteries), and an Intova 4.7 (CR-123 batteries).

I have the photon torpedos because I wanted the most reliable light, machined delrin bodied twist-on/off seemed to be the way to go here.

I bought the Oxychec Raider because I wanted to try it out and the price was good.

The Intova is brighter than them all, not by a lot but it is noticeable. the price is very good on these as well.

Considering money and performance the Intova 4.7 is the best option, just put a section of bicycle inner tube over the switch (it can come out of the slot).

I don't have one, but another choice that looks promising is the UK 3 C-cell twist-on/off light. It's about $50, but the body is plastic as opposed to the machined delrin body of the photon torpedo. (or salvo, light monkey, Halcyon, sartek lights).

I have no experience with the UK light, but I think it used the exact same LED module that the LED versions of salvo, light monkey, Halcyon, and Sartek lights do.

Among the lights I have, I prefer the Photon Torpedo lights. Just because I wanted machined delrin bodied backup lights that have twist-on/off activation. They are more expensive, but in the big scheme of diving things it's negligible. Besides, not long after I bought them I forgot all about what I paid for them.;)

Considering price vs. performance, it's dificult not to recommend the Intova. The Oxycheq Raider is good as well, but not as good as the Intova. I usually loan the Raider if someone needs an extra light.

-Mitch

UCFKnightDiver
April 7th, 2010, 11:48 AM
for backups I love the Intova 4.7w LEDS. THey have a really tight beam and are very bright. Oh ya and they are only $40.00 on divegearexpress.com .

The switches pop out, I wouldn't recommend this light.

SuPrBuGmAn
April 7th, 2010, 12:37 PM
The switches pop out, I wouldn't recommend this light.

From some of the first runs, thats apparently been taken care of awhile back. TONS of people use these things nowadays with great success.

UCFKnightDiver
April 7th, 2010, 12:43 PM
From some of the first runs, thats apparently been taken care of awhile back. TONS of people use these things nowadays with great success.

Idk I was looking at a newer one the other day, and the switch wasn't the greatest, I could have easily pulled it out, also if this is the case then why are people recommending you put bicycle tubing over the switch? I'm not at all convinced that the problem's been fixed, but maybe.

SuPrBuGmAn
April 7th, 2010, 12:52 PM
The bicycle tubing was a recommendation for those first run lights. At this point, they're probably the most common backup out there and the mob of people continuously frustrated with any defects doesn't exist.

scott&sara
April 7th, 2010, 01:12 PM
Here is a link to a short review I did on the 12W LM. Not sure if you need to be a member of TDS to see it or not... The Deco Stop (http://thedecostop.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42070)

Scott

Anti-Hero
April 7th, 2010, 01:44 PM
The bicycle tubing was a recommendation for those first run lights. At this point, they're probably the most common backup out there and the mob of people continuously frustrated with any defects doesn't exist.

The most common where? Most people here who carry backups like the scout, PT, Rat, etc.

And most vacation divers use whatever their LDS sells them. I don't think I've seen a single person here in mocal using Intova backup lights.

Pullmyfinger
April 7th, 2010, 04:27 PM
The bicycle tubing was a recommendation for those first run lights. At this point, they're probably the most common backup out there and the mob of people continuously frustrated with any defects doesn't exist.
I just bought my intova 4.7 from cave adventures, I assume it was one of the
Current models.
The switch will easily pop out of the slot. This was the first thing
I did when I got the light. I snapped it back in and covered it with
Innertube.
I'd still recommend the light for the money and output. It's a good value.
That being said...I still use my PT's as my backup lights.
I don't think intova ever fixed the switch, unless I got an older version.

-Mitch

SuPrBuGmAn
April 7th, 2010, 05:03 PM
The most common where? Most people here who carry backups like the scout, PT, Rat, etc.

And most vacation divers use whatever their LDS sells them. I don't think I've seen a single person here in mocal using Intova backup lights.

... around caves ;)

PfcAJ
April 7th, 2010, 05:21 PM
The problem with the Intova is the switch.

Twist on lights are simple, which is real important in a backup light. Switches get switched on accidentally, as do push button lights.

SuPrBuGmAn
April 7th, 2010, 05:56 PM
Pressure can light a twist on backup as well, if its not unscrewed enough.

In either case, a buddy will have no issue telling you to turn your backup off.

PfcAJ
April 7th, 2010, 07:07 PM
Test it before the dive. Done.

The last man in a team's backup lights probably won't be seen by the lead diver, so you've got it turned on for up to half the dive.

Or, just get a proper light without a switch and learn how to test it.

JahJahwarrior
April 7th, 2010, 07:48 PM
I like the newer Intova's with the push button switch on the tail end.

Over the last 70 hours in a cave, my intova's have never accidentally switched on, while a twist-on backup light has, twice.

Scott L
April 7th, 2010, 08:24 PM
I'd go with at least 21W and stick to HID, The LED even in 21W form will not have the same "punch". I've beaten the crap out of my Salvo 21W HID (sticking it in the mud, dropping it off the bumper of my xterra, etc.) and it hasn't gave me even the slightest hiccup. Light Monkey or Halcyon IMO.

Yes, Halcyon's delrin can take a licking. Sorry Nick, just playing around, kinda. :D

Scott L
April 7th, 2010, 08:53 PM
This dude did some homework in a backup light review...

MB Sub X1-VB (3C) On test - Rebreather World (http://www.rebreatherworld.com/dive-lights-torch/32079-mb-sub-x1-vb-3c-test.html)

PfcAJ
April 8th, 2010, 12:00 AM
I like the newer Intova's with the push button switch on the tail end.

Over the last 70 hours in a cave, my intova's have never accidentally switched on, while a twist-on backup light has, twice.

I've seen plenty of intova's turned on when they weren't supposed to be. Now here's the real question, did you test your twist on light before you got in the water (by pressing down on the bezel)?

Lemme guess... ;)

We test everything else before starting the dive, why is this any different?

ucfdiver
April 8th, 2010, 12:16 AM
Test it before the dive. Done.

The last man in a team's backup lights probably won't be seen by the lead diver, so you've got it turned on for up to half the dive.

Or, just get a proper light without a switch and learn how to test it.
Even this isn't an issue. On a dive where it really matters, you'll have a stage. At the first stage drop it will be seen when you look at each other while switching gas sources. Even on a smaller dive, you'll usually do at least one jump and catch it there. With 6hrs+ burn on almost every backup made we're talking maaaybe 15-20min for most dives before it would get noticed.

PfcAJ
April 8th, 2010, 12:27 AM
I don't stare at my buddy on stage switches (deco is another story). The MOD is already verified and he has at least 3 working regs. We're about a body's length away. Even if I did stare at him during switches, if he was behind me and I turned around, I STILL wouldn't see his backup lights.

The last dive I did was 50min on the trigger on the way in. So it would have been more like an hour before I saw it. Or... we just check our stuff before we dive? Ya, thats the answer.

PfcAJ
April 8th, 2010, 12:32 AM
Oh, I really like this one about the Intovas
Cave Diver's Forum - Cave Diving Resource - View Single Post - Bad experience with Intova (http://www.cavediver.net/forum/showpost.php?p=82318&postcount=19)

ucfdiver
April 8th, 2010, 12:34 AM
The last dive I did was 50min on the trigger on the way in. So it would have been more like an hour before I saw it. Or... we just check our stuff before we dive? Ya, thats the answer.
At that point, you still have at the very least, 5x+ the burn needed to exit the cave on EACH backup light. Once again, we're back to using gear (switches) to solve a problem that doesn't exist.


Also I find it amazing anyone would use Intova lights for tech diving. They even admitted that they're new to making lights, and other than the fact that you can't rely on them to turn on, they're very good lights.... :mooner:
Cave Diver's Forum - Cave Diving Resource - View Single Post - Bad experience with Intova (http://www.cavediver.net/forum/showpost.php?p=82318&postcount=19)

Really sorry to hear of your problem. If you contact us we will give you a new revised light. We had a real problem with switches initially and have corrected it. We do not get this issue with newer production units. Our lights are really good except for this issue. We have developed a new til switch that utilizes a magnetic metal push button. It also allows full and 30 % power along with a strobe feature. Lights are a relatively new area for us and we are working hard to make them the best value on the market. Stay tuned as we have some exciting new models coming out soon.

Unless Halcyon and Light Monkey go out of business, I'll gladly take a slightly dimmer, slightly more expensive, and waaaay better tested style of light.

LiteHedded
April 8th, 2010, 08:54 AM
aside from being crap, the intovas are just fine.

SuPrBuGmAn
April 8th, 2010, 10:12 AM
I've seen plenty of intova's turned on when they weren't supposed to be.


Which Intovas?

Perhaps those divers were just as careless as the divers with a twist on BU who didn't press down on the bezel.

Why is carelessness the fault of the diver in one instance, and not the other?


Oh, I really like this one about the Intovas
Cave Diver's Forum - Cave Diving Resource - View Single Post - Bad experience with Intova (http://www.cavediver.net/forum/showpost.php?p=82318&postcount=19)

Sounds like the problem was fixed with a design change... but wasn't that stated earlier on in this thread?



Also I find it amazing anyone would use Intova lights for tech diving. They even admitted that they're new to making lights, and other than the fact that you can't rely on them to turn on, they're very good lights.... :mooner:

Ya know, Halcyon had alot of issues with their early 10w HIDs too. They fixed them and everythings good now. I wonder if you would be singing the same song back then as you are now?... or just continue drinking the koolaid ;)

SuPrBuGmAn
April 8th, 2010, 10:15 AM
I say all this... and I'm not defending my backups by any means... I use OMS(zomg) twist on Vega LEDs. Brighter than the Halcyon and Salvo BUs, cheaper, and bulletproof(I've run mine over with a truck, trailer, and boat - by accident - and they're still kickin).

David_57
April 8th, 2010, 10:16 AM
Dropped my OMS HID on the dive boat it hardly hit as I managed to grab the cord but you guessed the bulb broke 200.00 to replace, for me my next light will be LED for sure even if not quite as bright as HID I will live with it.

SuPrBuGmAn
April 8th, 2010, 10:24 AM
Dropped my OMS HID on the dive boat it hardly hit as I managed to grab the cord but you guessed the bulb broke 200.00 to replace, for me my next light will be LED for sure even if not quite as bright as HID I will live with it.

You can find the bulbs cheaper if you look around...

That being said, I broke 5 Brightstars in my former HID. Then bought an LED primary and sold the HID - absolutely no regrets.

LiteHedded
April 8th, 2010, 10:26 AM
my 50 dollar xenon scouts are the bees' knees

SuPrBuGmAn
April 8th, 2010, 10:57 AM
So are my 2 for $80 Vegas. :D

LiteHedded
April 8th, 2010, 11:07 AM
Touchť

PfcAJ
April 8th, 2010, 11:08 AM
Which Intovas?

Perhaps those divers were just as careless as the divers with a twist on BU who didn't press down on the bezel.

Why is carelessness the fault of the diver in one instance, and not the other?



Sounds like the problem was fixed with a design change... but wasn't that stated earlier on in this thread?



Ya know, Halcyon had alot of issues with their early 10w HIDs too. They fixed them and everythings good now. I wonder if you would be singing the same song back then as you are now?... or just continue drinking the koolaid ;)

It was one with the tail switch, another with the magnetic slide thing.

Pushing a button happens a lot easier than twisting a bezel, since it takes two hands to do it. A button can be activated by the clip/ d-ring pressing it, and its obvious that a short slide switch is very easy to knock into the on position. Its just not the same.

SuPrBuGmAn
April 8th, 2010, 11:22 AM
The button is recessed, I'd take my chances ;)

PfcAJ
April 8th, 2010, 11:23 AM
I wouldn't.

ucfdiver
April 8th, 2010, 12:26 PM
Which Intovas?
Perhaps those divers were just as careless as the divers with a twist on BU who didn't press down on the bezel.

Why is carelessness the fault of the diver in one instance, and not the other?

Sounds like the problem was fixed with a design change... but wasn't that stated earlier on in this thread?
I dropped mine in the sand while gearing up and ruined my switch (popped out when I went to turn it on). Upsetting, but confirmed what I knew in that Intova's are great lights on the surface, but not something I'd bring in the water.


Ya know, Halcyon had alot of issues with their early 10w HIDs too. They fixed them and everythings good now. I wonder if you would be singing the same song back then as you are now?... or just continue drinking the koolaid
Personally I wouldn't buy a Welch Allyn based HID. I might enjoy a bit of koolaid, but I won't pay extra for a more fragile bulb. :popcorn: I think Halcyon has recently changed over however, but I still don't have a local dealer I trust to take stuff to for service. Maybe you can send it directly to Halcyon? Duno, I guess if I have issues with any Halcyon gear I might look into it... With how easy it is to get service from Light Monkey I don't see myself drinking that flavor cool aide ;)

elan
April 8th, 2010, 01:01 PM
My friend had an Intova, great light but the sucky switch, in dry gloves you do not really feel it. And the sand is the killer for it. Replaced by a Scout

SuPrBuGmAn
April 8th, 2010, 01:01 PM
I dropped mine in the sand while gearing up and ruined my switch (popped out when I went to turn it on). Upsetting, but confirmed what I knew in that Intova's are great lights on the surface, but not something I'd bring in the water.

The design of the switches has been changed *shrugs*




Gah! ...and its KoolAid! :P

http://thelgl.com/lifeandtimes/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/koolaid_man_game.jpg

LiteHedded
April 8th, 2010, 02:18 PM
The design of the switches has been changed *shrugs*




Gah! ...and its KoolAid! :P

http://thelgl.com/lifeandtimes/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/koolaid_man_game.jpg

i think the issue being people had so many problems with the things they're just not willing to give them a second (or third or fourth) chance
backup lights are a simple thing and I think people try and reinvent the wheel a little too much.

although take that for what it's worth. from a kool aid drinker

SuPrBuGmAn
April 8th, 2010, 02:34 PM
i think the issue being people had so many problems with the things they're just not willing to give them a second (or third or fourth) chance
backup lights are a simple thing and I think people try and reinvent the wheel a little too much.

although take that for what it's worth. from a kool aid drinker

...reinventing the wheel... like SS inflators? :D

Salvo/Leviathon/Light Monkey got a head start in the game since they learned most of their lessons under a different brand. Aside from them, everyone's had a bad product or three, most will redesign, and rerelease(Halcyon and Intova have both).

LiteHedded
April 8th, 2010, 03:10 PM
well that's one reason they got a head start :D

SuPrBuGmAn
April 8th, 2010, 03:25 PM
My point :)

PfcAJ
April 8th, 2010, 04:34 PM
Stolen!!

Wayne at DiveSeekers
April 8th, 2010, 08:45 PM
Halcyon has recently changed over however, but I still don't have a local dealer I trust to take stuff to for service. Maybe you can send it directly to Halcyon? Duno, I guess if I have issues with any Halcyon gear I might look into it... With how easy it is to get service from Light Monkey I don't see myself drinking that flavor cool aide

We are a dealer for both and IMO, customer service is great for both. We do a lot of boat diving here in the NE and things get banged around a lot. We haven't had any issues we either company's bulbs. Locally the 21 HID have been the canister of choice. Just like with Light Monkey, if you don't have a local dealer to trust, just send it back to Halcyon directly and they will take care of it.

Gombessa
April 8th, 2010, 08:52 PM
We are a dealer for both and IMO, customer service is great for both. We do a lot of boat diving here in the NE and things get banged around a lot. We haven't had any issues we either company's bulbs. Locally the 21 HID have been the canister of choice. Just like with Light Monkey, if you don't have a local dealer to trust, just send it back to Halcyon directly and they will take care of it.

Exactly. Customer service at Halcyon is phenomenal, and IME every bit as good as that from Salvo/Light Monkey. I've had my light in for service a few times, and every time it's gone in Corey has thrown me some unexpected freebies (charger adaptor, replacement cord or lid, etc.) that shows me that they take their customer satisfaction VERY seriously.

I'm just glad we have such a wonderful tradition of above-and-beyond customer service from both of these highly-regarded manufacturers.

Scott L
April 8th, 2010, 08:53 PM
Stolen!!

:thumb:

See post #28. :)

ScoobyPro
April 14th, 2010, 03:23 PM
I know just about everyone's a fan of the 21W HID, but for a bit less money, I ended up with the Hollis 16W LED. Initial impression says that the light color range is better than the 21W HID, the canister is made by Light Monkey, and the light overall is a pretty nice rig. Compared to a buddy's 21W during a nice red tide bloom visible running out around 3/4 of a mile from shore, at 100' under the bloom, the light had decent punch, enough brightness to handle daytime signaling, and generally stacked up nicely with the 21W HID, not seeming noticeably darker.

Personally, I like the durability of LED vs HID, because I'm scared of broken bulbs, due to bad experiences with a 10W Sartek HID I bought off SB about 6 months ago, and spent about the same amount of money again trying to get it working, ending up $600 down with a non-working light.

Peter

adm3745
April 16th, 2010, 10:43 PM
I actually believe that hid bulbs are more sturdy than they get credit for. I have been making my own HID lights and selling them recently. In my testing I have put my prototype up through a few beatings to "try" to break a bulb. Yesterday I accidentally dropped the 21w brightstar bulb onto my granite counter top from around 12". It still works perfectly.I also have a bad habit of forgetting to clip off my light before I don my rig and so my light head occasionally hits the side of the car. With the test tube stlye bulbs I believe they last fine against normal use.

SuPrBuGmAn
April 19th, 2010, 09:39 AM
I went through 5 brightstar bulbs during actual diving, within about 2 years. I never dropped them on granite, instead I just ruined them under their intended purposes.

Love my LED.

NWGratefulDiver
April 19th, 2010, 10:01 AM
I went through 5 brightstar bulbs during actual diving, within about 2 years. I never dropped them on granite, instead I just ruined them under their intended purposes.

Love my LED.

Hmmm ... I've got about 1200 dives on my Salvo 18W HID w/ Brightstar bulb now ... and the bulb's working as good as it was the day I got it. I've had the cord replaced a coupla times, but otherwise the light's been trouble-free ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

SuPrBuGmAn
April 19th, 2010, 11:24 AM
??

So you're saying I didn't go through that many bulbs?

I wish I didn't, between them, and a new battery at one point, I spent more $$$ on replacements than the light itself.

adm3745
April 19th, 2010, 12:06 PM
What kind of light was it?

NWGratefulDiver
April 19th, 2010, 01:18 PM
??

So you're saying I didn't go through that many bulbs?


Of course not ...

I'm saying I had a different experience.

I'm still using the original battery as well ... I burn-tested it a couple weeks back by sticking the light head in a bucket of water and turning it on. After 3-1/2 hours it was still going, so I turned it off again.

Maybe I'm just lucky ... but it's been an incredibly reliable product ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

SuPrBuGmAn
April 19th, 2010, 02:53 PM
Gotcha

*shrugs* I'm sure I'm rougher on my gear than some, diving for me often includes piling too much gear into a zodiac to run up some river or creek only to squeeze my way against a torrent pouring out of some sidemount/nomount hole in the ground :)

The LEDs hold up though.


The battery was a little 9amp with 250 cycles through it, pretty typical lifespan from what I hear. Definately sounds like you've had some great luck with your battery. I'm not gonna argue that I may have been tough on my bulbs(quotable?), but this has been non-issue with the LED :D

UCFKnightDiver
April 19th, 2010, 04:43 PM
Gotcha

*shrugs* I'm sure I'm rougher on my gear than some, diving for me often includes piling too much gear into a zodiac to run up some river or creek only to squeeze my way against a torrent pouring out of some sidemount/nomount hole in the ground :)

The LEDs hold up though.


The battery was a little 9amp with 250 cycles through it, pretty typical lifespan from what I hear. Definately sounds like you've had some great luck with your battery. I'm not gonna argue that I may have been tough on my bulbs(quotable?), but this has been non-issue with the LED :D

It's hard to see your LED when we're diving... :)

SuPrBuGmAn
April 19th, 2010, 05:02 PM
Its hard to see anything with that amount of situational unawareness :P

UCFKnightDiver
April 19th, 2010, 05:06 PM
Its hard to see anything with that amount of situational unawareness :P

Ouch! lol, but then again if I really had poor SA I wouldn't see your light at all. LOL ;)

SuPrBuGmAn
April 19th, 2010, 06:01 PM
Hell dude, its hard to see me signal when we never hit the water due to a bled down tank :P

leabre
June 20th, 2010, 03:05 PM
I know just about everyone's a fan of the 21W HID, but for a bit less money, I ended up with the Hollis 16W LED. Initial impression says that the light color range is better than the 21W HID, the canister is made by Light Monkey, and the light overall is a pretty nice rig. Compared to a buddy's 21W during a nice red tide bloom visible running out around 3/4 of a mile from shore, at 100' under the bloom, the light had decent punch, enough brightness to handle daytime signaling, and generally stacked up nicely with the 21W HID, not seeming noticeably darker.

I've been eyeing this light to use as a spare/loaner for my buds who come into town and don't have a can light yet. My primary is a 21w HID and I live in the same area as you (Orange County).

How well does this light cut through particulate and how well can it be used for twighlight/night signaling? (compared to the 21w if you are able to compare).

Because it's a spare, I'm not too concerned about how equal it is to a 21w HID primary, but there will be times when this acts as my primary so I'm hoping its a littel beefier than a 10w HID/LED equivelant.

ScoobyPro
June 21st, 2010, 01:41 AM
How well does this light cut through particulate and how well can it be used for twighlight/night signaling? (compared to the 21w if you are able to compare).

Because it's a spare, I'm not too concerned about how equal it is to a 21w HID primary, but there will be times when this acts as my primary so I'm hoping its a littel beefier than a 10w HID/LED equivelant.

It's actually bright enough to be visible for daytime signaling. It's a downgrade from a 21W HID in terms of light output, but the color is better and the overall rig size, buoyancy, and the fact that it came with a non-nonsense charger, a sealed canister, and pre-strapped, other than the lack of a case, I was really happy. As compared to a 10W HID, it's brighter, and doesn't suffer from the delicacy of HID heads. That makes me really happy. The downside is that you can't overdrive LED's and get the exponential increases in output like you can with HID.

LED heads are getting better and better, I'm sure that in a year or two I'll be able to pick one up for $500 that has equal output to a 21W HID ;)

Peter

ScoobyPro
June 21st, 2010, 01:43 AM
Or yeah.. I didn't actually look at it specifically for penetration, but I didn't see a noticeable difference with the HID my buddy had. He was actually surprised how good it was comparatively.

Peter

Doc Harry
June 26th, 2010, 01:21 PM
deleted

leabre
June 27th, 2010, 01:30 AM
I ended up purchasing one and used it on my dive today at the channel islands. My buddy used a Green Force 10w HID. In sunlight, the HID wins. As far as distance "punch" and focus, the HID wins. But the Hollis held its own and was suitable for signaling in daylight up to about 10 ft.

But in shadows, in the dark of a kelp forest canopy or in the nooks and crannies, the Hollis was a clear contender. The slightly wider focus, is, in my opinion, and advantage and the color is more white than the bluish 10w HID.

I'm happy with the purchase and it will serve as a wonderful backup, travel, or loaner light.

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