Help me pick a dive light

[BigAirHarper]

So I am looking for a primary and secondary dive light. I mainly do OW dives and I am currently in a AOW class and will be going on my first night dive. I was looking at the Princeton Tec Shockwave LED light for my primary and the Princeton Tec Impact XL LED for my secondary light. Any advice on these lights or better alternatives would be awesome.

[DiveGear4Less]

Check out the OMS Vega K2 light here (http://www.divegear4less.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3&zenid=b833d51b60ba3028dbaa1da2aca067ad). We also have some Intova lights in stock that I need to get on the site later today. They are also really bright. The wide angle is great for open water dives.

[Packhorse]

Intovas are hard to beat at lumen vs $$

The real question is what is your budget?

[Atomic_Diver]

If money is not an issue why not go with a Light Monkey (Salvo) 21W HID Primary Canister light?.. If your a bit tight on budget, but want a really bright light how about a Dive Rite HID 1000 Slimline Canister Primary, the Dive Rite LED Lux, or Dive Rite LED 700?...

[FireInMyBones]

+1 for Intovas (http://www.divegearexpress.com/lights/backuplt.shtml) as backup.

I like the Dive Rite LED Lux (http://www.divegearexpress.com/lights/ledlux.shtml) for primary.

[a22shady]

Go here a great and very bright light very little cost. two of my dive buddies use these lights and love them. Owner is Randy and is a great guy

Penetrater 220 220 Lumens

Piranha Dive Manufacturing (http://www.piranhadivemfg.com/products.html)

[Hatul]

Go here a great and very bright light very little cost. two of my dive buddies use these lights and love them. Owner is Randy and is a great guy

Penetrater 220 220 Lumens

Piranha Dive Manufacturing (http://www.piranhadivemfg.com/products.html)

I have the first version of this light and it's very solid and takes the ubiquitous AAA cells which give you the option of using NiMh rechargeables. The second version can only be better.

Adam

[rolling rapids]

GO for the Gold...GREENFORCE...

[Tortuga68]

Go here a great and very bright light very little cost. two of my dive buddies use these lights and love them. Owner is Randy and is a great guy

Penetrater 220 220 Lumens

+1 for Randy, great communication and quick shipping not to mention killer prices... Their tank bands rock and for half the price of comparable competitors

The shipping date for the 220s keeps getting pushed back though, still waiting for mine :(

[miketsp]

One of the things I found over the years is that the smaller the better.
When I started doing night dives I used to think, "the more light the better" so built myself a DIY 50W halogen unit and very soon found that it was total overkill.
Night dives were just like daylight dives.

Then I dropped down to conventional lights with 5 or 6 large dry cells.
But often I found I was carrying many pounds of lights ( 2 x primaries + 2 x secondaries for myself and my wife) on dive trips and many times we were not getting an opportunity to do night dives.
So looking for a solution, I saw that recent LED lights are much smaller and quite adequate for use as primary lights even at relatively low lumen outputs as their white light penetrates the murk much better.

So now I use as primary Mini Q40 eLEDŽ Plus from UK

Mini Q40 eLED Plus Diving Light- UK - Underwater Kinetics (http://www.uwkinetics.com/product/4)

and as a secondary Princeton Tec Attitude which burns for 150 hours on 4 x AAA cells meaning you can leave it turned on for the whole dive, eliminating the light sticks I used to use as a third backup. For this small unit I purchased a neoprene wrist strap giving hands-free operation.


Attitude | Princeton Tec (http://www.princetontec.com/?q=node/80)

So when I'm flying on a dive trip with tight weight limits as on many inter-island hops, lights are no longer an issue.

[Wayne at DiveSeekers]

For an Economical way to go, with out breaking the bank, go with
PRINCETON TEC - Lifetime Warranty against flooding, flood light, get it replaced.

Main - Torrent L.E.D.
Princeton Tec Torrent LED TOR-BK *Buy Princeton Tec at DIVESEEKERS.com 888-SCUBA-47 (http://www.diveseekers.com/Princeton_Tec_Torrent_LED_p/tor-bk.htm)
B/U - Impact XL
Princeton Tec Impact XL L.E.D. IMPXL-BK-D *Buy Princeton Tec at DIVESEEKERS.com 888-SCUBA-47 (http://www.diveseekers.com/Princeton_Tec_Impact_XL_L_E_D_p/impxl.htm)
Tank Marker - Eco Flare
Princeton Tec Eco Flare EF-2-NY *Buy Princeton Tec at DIVESEEKERS.com 888-SCUBA-47 (http://www.diveseekers.com/Princeton_Tec_Eco_Flare_p/ef-2-ny.htm)

The other small light to consider as a possible Main Light is
Intova Nova
Intova Nova Light , LT60670-Nova, IFL660 *Buy Intova at DIVESEEKERS.com 888-SCUBA-47 (http://www.diveseekers.com/Intova_Nova_Light_LT60670_Nova_IFL660_p/dr-lt6070-nova.htm)

If you find that down the road you really enjoy night diving or you get into a BP & Harness, then you can go with a Canister Light & convert the Torrent & Impact XL over to B/U Lights. On the other hand, if you find that you enjoy the night dives but prefer a pistol grip then you can go with the Shockwave LED. Same thing, if you decide to go this route, you still didn't invest a lot off the start.
Princeton Tec L.E.D Shockwaves TEC-8L-NY *Buy Princeton Tec at DIVESEEKERS.com 888-SCUBA-47 (http://www.diveseekers.com/Princeton_Tec_L_E_D_Shockwaves_p/tec-8l-ny.htm)

Feel free to contact me if you need help with this.

[Reef Tank]

Go here a great and very bright light very little cost. two of my dive buddies use these lights and love them. Owner is Randy and is a great guy

Penetrater 220 220 Lumens

Piranha Dive Manufacturing (http://www.piranhadivemfg.com/products.html)
Isn't that a rebranding of the Dorcy? Dorcy Dive II 220 Lumen Submersible LED Dive Light (http://www.dorcydirect.com/p-163-41-0467-220-lumen-submersible-led-light-dive-ii.aspx)

[ReefHound]

Another fan of the Penetrator here. I have two of the original 180 lumns lights and 2 of the new 220 lumens on order. I use them in cenotes and night dives as both primary and backup. They are brighter than my Princeton Tec LED and have a smaller footprint and weigh less.

Actually, "Penetrator" is just a marketing term used by Piranha. They are really Dorcy lights. In fact, it says Dorcy on the light.

[DoctorBob]

One nice thing about the Princeton lights is their customer service. They just replaced 3 lights that I had bought years ago. No receipts needed, just sent the old ones in and they sent me new ones.
Here is the story: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/princeton-tec/324818-more-thanks-princeton-tec.html

[Wayne at DiveSeekers]

Customer service goes a long way. We've been dealing with them since 1996 and they've always stood behind their lights.

[RJP]

Customer service goes a long way. We've been dealing with them since 1996 and they've always stood behind their lights.

Agreed - had an older model Torrent that died for no reason at one point about after about a year and 100 or so dives. Brought it back to my LDS - which just happened to be DiveSeekers (http://www.DiveSeekers.com) - who called Princeton Tec, who told Wayne "Give him a new one."

And so he did.

[Sendero]

I'm torn between the Torrent and the Penetrator 220 for a primary light. I don't see the lumen rating for the Torret. Cany anyone point me to one?

Also, if I go with the Penetrator 220, which 'options' are worthwhile? I haven't been diving with a light before today and am not sure which things I'd want to have.

[Tortuga68]

I think the current Torrent LED is 95 lumens, although I wouldn't get too excited about comparing specs with specs when to comes to lumens. Also the size, weight and switch methods are quite different between those two torches so that will probably have an influence n your decision

The options you'll want will depend on how you plan to use & store your torch, the type of diving you do and your BC

[Sendero]

The options you'll want will depend on how you plan to use & store your torch, the type of diving you do and your BC

Good point. Newb mistake by me there.

The majority of what I expect my 'light use' diving to be around the puget sound area. Mostly using it for peeking in rocks and crevices for diff animals. I'm thinking I will want it clipped to my right side BC pocket area d-ring, and I like the idea of using a retractor to help me not drop & lose it.

[Tortuga68]

If you use a retractor YOU'RE GONNA DIE!!

But seriously...

Personally I wouldn't use one, but whatever makes you comfortable. With that type of usage you'll be deploying and stowing it during the dive so I can see why the security would appeal to you. OTH a bolt snap tied to the end of the light reduces complexity & entanglement potential while eliminating a failure point, and if you turn the light on before unclipping it, they're easy to find if you do drop them (so long as it doesn't go out of your depth of course)

[shotdisc98]

My wife and I are also doing an AOW class and need lights. I already have a PCa but will also need a backup light for my wife and a primary for us to share. We're doing our class in Monterey and then a trip to Cozumel in May. We're doing our class with Sport Chalet in CA and get a 10% discount if we buy through them, but if a better light can be found elsewhere, I'd rather go with that. We're not super-active divers, usually just a few a year and prefer warm water diving. Need for class the weekend of March 19th. Thanks for the help!

[Wayne at DiveSeekers]

My wife and I are also doing an AOW class and need lights. I already have a PCa but will also need a backup light for my wife and a primary for us to share. We're doing our class in Monterey and then a trip to Cozumel in May. We're doing our class with Sport Chalet in CA and get a 10% discount if we buy through them, but if a better light can be found elsewhere, I'd rather go with that. We're not super-active divers, usually just a few a year and prefer warm water diving. Need for class the weekend of March 19th. Thanks for the help!

One aspect when picking out a light is how it feels in your hands & what style you think you'll be comfortable with. For recreational diving, I find that women like the Princeton Tec Mini Wave (Halogen or LED) for a main light (not overly big, big beam and pistol grip). In my experience, it is well worth it to make her as comfortable as possible, in return, more diving for you. For a good price point for a backup light, you can go with a Princeton Tec Tec40.

Here is an example of a Pkg:
Princeton Tec Travel Pack TP *Buy Princeton Tec at DIVESEEKERS.com 888-SCUBA-47 (http://www.diveseekers.com/Princeton_Tec_Travel_Pack_p/tp.htm)

If you don't need everything in the Pkg then you can order the lights individually. LED's are a nice option (reliability, cleaner light) but they are a little more in price.

[eelnoraa]

I need a primary for AOW too. Is the Penetrator is good choice my this usage? How spotty is it? should I have a spot or flood primary? My backup is UK SL4 LED.

[Tortuga68]

SL4 alone will be fine for AOW

Penetrator 220 will be good if they ever ship :(

[HenrikBP]

Penetrator 220 will be good if they ever ship :(

Mine shipped from Piranha yesterday. Should be here Monday.

Henrik

[scubafanatic]

Mine shipped from Piranha yesterday. Should be here Monday.

Henrik

hmm, so ya didn't go with the mbsub lights after all ??? Oh well, my 3rd X1-VB has been shipped out to me and I'll get it early next week.... plus my PHOTON 2 / VB-50 LED combo is on the way in from Germany and I should get that in a couple of weeks ! :)

the Dorcy lights are a complete non-starter for me, I'll take magnetic light switching any day of the week over the obsolete twist on/twist off (flood prone and accidentally activated 'on' by mere water pressure) light head technology.

[Hatul]

SL4 alone will be fine for AOW

Penetrator 220 will be good if they ever ship :(

They shipped yesterday and I also received a satisfactory email from Dorcy, which explains they were having problems getting the proper control circuit.

Adam

[scubafanatic]

They shipped yesterday and I also received a satisfactory email from Dorcy, which explains they were having problems getting the proper control circuit.

Adam

did you get your 'beta tester' discount ? :)

[HenrikBP]

hmm, so ya didn't go with the mbsub lights after all ???

Not yet ... let me put it that way :)

I'd placed the Dorcy/Penetrator order with Piranha when they first posted the pre-order special, so I've just been waiting.

I'm currently doing some training where twisty is a "must", and as such the Dorcys looks like they will be very nice lights and certainly a much better value per $$ than the "name brands".

I am still looking at the MB-Sub lights. I think the X1-VB might be the perfect clear water night dive primary. The VB-50 could be an equally excellent primary for less than optimal viz conditions (i.e. everything local to me :))

But the pricing was just too "painful" for me at the moment. I'm hoping to get to fondle the MB-Sub lights at BTS next week. However, if you're not expecting yours until a couple of weeks from now, Golem Gear may not have them at the show either. We'll see.


the Dorcy lights are a complete non-starter for me, I'll take magnetic light switching any day of the week over the obsolete twist on/twist off

I don't mind the twisty lights as much. I've been wrenching on mechanical stuff for many years, so the direction of loosen/tighten are pure reflex by now. I suspect that at least some floods may be simple mistakes. As for the turning on at depth - a quick "push on the bezel" test should eliminate most of them.

I have an old Halcyon Scout (upgraded with home-made LED), and I did a bit of testing: an extra 1/4 turn from off makes it impossible for me to "light" the light by pushing on the bezel. An additional 1/4 turn should pretty much secure the light being off without getting close to the sealing o-ring. It really all depends on the thread pitch of the head-to-body as well as machining tolerances. My W200 from DX has aluminum body and head with a finer thread pitch and take even less of a twist to turn off securely.

So not so much of a deal-breaker to me. Of course, now that I've thoroughly "jinxed" myself we'll see how long my twisty lights last ;)

Henrik

[gcbryan]

The twisty lights that are a problem in my experience have just been the small plastic UK/Pelican type of lights.

I do like magnetic lights if done well but as was mentioned the W200 works quite well with the twisty actuation.

[scubafanatic]

Not yet ... let me put it that way :)

I'd placed the Dorcy/Penetrator order with Piranha when they first posted the pre-order special, so I've just been waiting.

I'm currently doing some training where twisty is a "must", and as such the Dorcys looks like they will be very nice lights and certainly a much better value per $$ than the "name brands".

I am still looking at the MB-Sub lights. I think the X1-VB might be the perfect clear water night dive primary. The VB-50 could be an equally excellent primary for less than optimal viz conditions (i.e. everything local to me :))

But the pricing was just too "painful" for me at the moment. I'm hoping to get to fondle the MB-Sub lights at BTS next week. However, if you're not expecting yours until a couple of weeks from now, Golem Gear may not have them at the show either. We'll see.



I don't mind the twisty lights as much. I've been wrenching on mechanical stuff for many years, so the direction of loosen/tighten are pure reflex by now. I suspect that at least some floods may be simple mistakes. As for the turning on at depth - a quick "push on the bezel" test should eliminate most of them.

I have an old Halcyon Scout (upgraded with home-made LED), and I did a bit of testing: an extra 1/4 turn from off makes it impossible for me to "light" the light by pushing on the bezel. An additional 1/4 turn should pretty much secure the light being off without getting close to the sealing o-ring. It really all depends on the thread pitch of the head-to-body as well as machining tolerances. My W200 from DX has aluminum body and head with a finer thread pitch and take even less of a twist to turn off securely.

So not so much of a deal-breaker to me. Of course, now that I've thoroughly "jinxed" myself we'll see how long my twisty lights last ;)

Henrik

no sweat, Henrik, I've taken dive classes too where the instructor was very particular about allowable versus unallowable gear...understood. Jakob @ Golem Gear didn't give an exact time the light will arrive, per his 3/16 msg "about two weeks" which puts it very end of March/very start of April-ish. Hopefully you'll get to touch the 'real deal' at BTS.

Understand about 'price' being in issue....the mbsub lights just have a very high quality look and feel, and intelligent design, and it's cheaper in the longer run to get the quality up front than buy cheap lights several times over.

BTW, my 3rd X1-VB arrived TODAY (priority mail), so gotta rig it up with light sock and other goodies so it can join the fleet ! :D

[HenrikBP]

Jakob @ Golem Gear didn't give an exact time the light will arrive, per his 3/16 msg "about two weeks" which puts it very end of March/very start of April-ish. Hopefully you'll get to touch the 'real deal' at BTS.

Understand about 'price' being in issue....the mbsub lights just have a very high quality look and feel, and intelligent design

BTW, my 3rd X1-VB arrived TODAY (priority mail :D

Congratulations on (yet another) light ;)

Here's hoping the MB-Sub lights will arrive in time for BTS. If so I'll report back my impressions.

I'm with you on spending the money right the first time around. I'd been circling a good deal on a 21W HID light, but to me it's just not the time to buy HID lights. IMO too much $$ for a narrow purpose light of aging (and stagnant) technology.

Henrik

[lof]

MB SUb are trying to get us the VB-50 in time for BTS. There is still achance for FedEx to get it here in time :)
Some unexpected delays affected the timeline.

[scubafanatic]

Congratulations on (yet another) light ;)

Here's hoping the MB-Sub lights will arrive in time for BTS. If so I'll report back my impressions.

I'm with you on spending the money right the first time around. I'd been circling a good deal on a 21W HID light, but to me it's just not the time to buy HID lights. IMO too much $$ for a narrow purpose light of aging (and stagnant) technology.

Henrik

Just go ahead and bring your checkbook to BTS....the mbsub lights are so slick you won't be able to resist! And I echo your sentiments about HID....I've had a 10W DR HID can light for some years, and it's been just fine, especially for a reef diver (not a caver/wreck diver), but HID has had it's day, and progress marches forward, I'm done with HID (although still keeping the HID can light as a spare as it's worth more to me as a 'reserve' unit than I'd get if I sold it for cash.)

[HenrikBP]

MB SUb are trying to get us the VB-50 in time for BTS. There is still achance for FedEx to get it here in time :)

Fingers crossed and cheering Fedex on ;)


Just go ahead and bring your checkbook to BTS....the mbsub lights are so slick you won't be able to resist!

Yeah, I'm debating whether to bring checkbook and "plastic" ... could end up being an expensive weekend :)

Henrik

[jkling17]

We just got back from 8 days in Bonaire. I bought my monster "light cannon" UK1200 along but didn't use it at all (lent it to another in our group). I was VERY impressed with the performance of the Intova Nova Wide Angle Torches.

I kept one with me during the day for checking out under ledges and seeing details below 50'. At night, I used two of them and was amazed. These are the BEST lights ever - for open water diving when you need to see stuff from 1-15'. The deep penetration isn't as good as the massive primary lights but in my opinion they aren't needed. I'm interested in seeing stuff that is CLOSE.

These lights have a single very wide angle hot spot (about 40 degrees from center), rather than the typical narrow "hot spot" from a normal light and halo that extends much further around it.

It is also very easy to find batteries without spending a lot. Batteries and butter has them for $0.75 each. And you can easily get 3 dives in on a set, perhaps even 4.

If you really want more light than you get from a single torch, then just hold the two so that you get a double beam - and you'll jump up from about 130 lumens to at least 200, perhaps even as much as 225-250.

Spend the $55 and get one of these asap - you won't regret it. In my case I bought a 2nd one after testing the 1st against my 8xC and 8xD lights.

Thank you, Intova!!!

Jeff

[zap2467]

I really think that you should chose the LED 21W Light System by Light Monkey the only problem is the price which if you don't mind paying a little bit and $1,279.00 is in your price range than you should really check this canister light out on dive gear express.com; This is not a comercial just helping to give you some good ideas to help you choose the best light.

[FireInMyBones]

I really think that you should chose the LED 21W Light System by Light Monkey the only problem is the price which if you don't mind paying a little bit and $1,279.00 is in your price range than you should really check this canister light out on dive gear express.com; This is not a comercial just helping to give you some good ideas to help you choose the best light.

Once I have the money, that is the one I am going to get.

For a secondary light, I use the Intova LED backups from Dive Rite clipped to my chest d-ring and attached to my harness using bicycle tire tubing. Streamlined and accessible with one hand.