tuatua
Registered
I brought a second hand Dacor reg set and gauges and the needle was stuck at 10m what's the problem? can I fix It I haven't tested it yet but the other gauges are working fine.Any suggestions for diy if thats possible.
Broken? Dacor Gauge needle stuck at 10m
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hawksbill
Registered
Over the years I have had depth guages get fouled with bits of sand and dirt that accumulates in the rubber console boot and it works its way into the vent hole in the back of the guage. Sometimes you can remove the guage from the rubber protector and clean everything off. See if you can free up trapped dirt in the vent that is putting pressure on the guage causing it to mis-read the depth. If this does not work easily, then, find another guage. Used is fine but compare it to a known working guage as you need to be able to trust it. My analog depth guage is used primarily as a backup in the event that my computer fails.
widget
Contributor
It depends, if its an older model and its an anatomic design (ie) not oil filled, yes you can open it.!
Even if its oil filled it can often be opened, but refilling with oil is an issue - and another thread.!
Best is to remove it from the housing, soften the rubber by imersing it in a little hot water first, this makes it easier to remove and later replace the module.
Next, take a peek at the bottom of the gauge, if it has a black bezel ring, its possible to open.
First, mark the position of the bezel ring in relation to the case with a bit of paint or a permanent marker, next unscrew the bezel ring (its usually not too tight) COUNTING THE TURNS by the marks - its important to return the bezel ring to the same position on fastening down.
Underneath you will find a rubber diaghram and usually a small steel plate, remove them and see if the needle has returned to its zero position - if yes, they were probably stuck or sandy, wash them off and put it all back together.
If not, the mechanism is at fault, all is not lost though, look carefully for rust due to leaks, if its rusted its usually done, keep it as a memento and get a new one.
If theres no rust its just sticking, move the mechanism by the small arm which rests on the steel back plate and see if the needle moves freely, if yes, lubricate the mechanism with a SMALL drop of thin oil - dont use an aerosol, its just overdos everything - test again, usually thats all thats needed and you can fit it all together again.
Now TEST the gauge against another known good one on a dive to check calibration, its unlikely it will go out if the bezel is returned to the exact position, but ALWAYS check first.
Its always fun to fix it yourself, but it always go's without saying NEVER,NEVER work on gear if you are in any sense unsure of yourself - rather ask a professional - although from my experience few will be bothered to fix a gauge.
Even if its oil filled it can often be opened, but refilling with oil is an issue - and another thread.!
Best is to remove it from the housing, soften the rubber by imersing it in a little hot water first, this makes it easier to remove and later replace the module.
Next, take a peek at the bottom of the gauge, if it has a black bezel ring, its possible to open.
First, mark the position of the bezel ring in relation to the case with a bit of paint or a permanent marker, next unscrew the bezel ring (its usually not too tight) COUNTING THE TURNS by the marks - its important to return the bezel ring to the same position on fastening down.
Underneath you will find a rubber diaghram and usually a small steel plate, remove them and see if the needle has returned to its zero position - if yes, they were probably stuck or sandy, wash them off and put it all back together.
If not, the mechanism is at fault, all is not lost though, look carefully for rust due to leaks, if its rusted its usually done, keep it as a memento and get a new one.
If theres no rust its just sticking, move the mechanism by the small arm which rests on the steel back plate and see if the needle moves freely, if yes, lubricate the mechanism with a SMALL drop of thin oil - dont use an aerosol, its just overdos everything - test again, usually thats all thats needed and you can fit it all together again.
Now TEST the gauge against another known good one on a dive to check calibration, its unlikely it will go out if the bezel is returned to the exact position, but ALWAYS check first.
Its always fun to fix it yourself, but it always go's without saying NEVER,NEVER work on gear if you are in any sense unsure of yourself - rather ask a professional - although from my experience few will be bothered to fix a gauge.
yes i found something it but it looks like theres oil everywhere theres also a screw there I loosened the screw to my surprise the needle went back to zero I had a look in the screw hole and saw some sand/mud and banged it out.
i took the screw out and it looks like there was oil in the back there that escaped when I opened it does it need to be filled again? i tightened screw back up can I put the rubber diaphragm thingy back on does it take any special oil so I can fill it up myself?
(the rubber diaphragm looks as though it protects the oil from escaping then over the rubber is a metal plate that I removed which also had the writing on it:warning do not press this surface or insert foreign objects through holes) The screw also has hole straight through it for the oil to travel through maybe?
i took the screw out and it looks like there was oil in the back there that escaped when I opened it does it need to be filled again? i tightened screw back up can I put the rubber diaphragm thingy back on does it take any special oil so I can fill it up myself?
(the rubber diaphragm looks as though it protects the oil from escaping then over the rubber is a metal plate that I removed which also had the writing on it:warning do not press this surface or insert foreign objects through holes) The screw also has hole straight through it for the oil to travel through maybe?
widget
Contributor
Hmm, oil filled gauges were rare in older models but..........
If you can, post a pic tuatua, it sounds like there is a leak somewhere, remember the oil serves two purposes, firstly as a sort of buffer for shocks and smooth needle movement and secondly if the gauge develops a leak its likely the oil will first leak out preventing water entering and causing damage, obviously, after a point water will overcome the oil and enter, but its a good little safety margin.
If only a small amount of oil escaped and its not leaking any more, dont stress too much, put it back together and check calibration, all that may happen is you get a sort of air space or bubble in the sight glass, the oil has no real effect on the gauge calibration. The steel plate and diaghram is normal on most all gauges and on oil filled one's it keeps the oil in and water out.
The warning is standard, when you dive the pressure flexes the plate and moves the needle via the arm, as long as you gentle, you are not likely to do any damage.
You can refill it yourself if you want, shop around for a proper mineral gauge oil if you can, here engineering suppliers sell it in small bottles, suck it up in a syringe and inject it back ito the gauge very slowly to eliminate as many air bubbles as possible, tap the gauge every now and them as well to break up bubbles - if you cant get correct gauge oil, ask around for a suitably viscous replacement, it really needs to be the same viscosity as gauge oil or it may hinder the needle movement if its too thick.
If you can, post a pic tuatua, it sounds like there is a leak somewhere, remember the oil serves two purposes, firstly as a sort of buffer for shocks and smooth needle movement and secondly if the gauge develops a leak its likely the oil will first leak out preventing water entering and causing damage, obviously, after a point water will overcome the oil and enter, but its a good little safety margin.
If only a small amount of oil escaped and its not leaking any more, dont stress too much, put it back together and check calibration, all that may happen is you get a sort of air space or bubble in the sight glass, the oil has no real effect on the gauge calibration. The steel plate and diaghram is normal on most all gauges and on oil filled one's it keeps the oil in and water out.
The warning is standard, when you dive the pressure flexes the plate and moves the needle via the arm, as long as you gentle, you are not likely to do any damage.
You can refill it yourself if you want, shop around for a proper mineral gauge oil if you can, here engineering suppliers sell it in small bottles, suck it up in a syringe and inject it back ito the gauge very slowly to eliminate as many air bubbles as possible, tap the gauge every now and them as well to break up bubbles - if you cant get correct gauge oil, ask around for a suitably viscous replacement, it really needs to be the same viscosity as gauge oil or it may hinder the needle movement if its too thick.
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