For all those considering a liveaboard trip to the Maldives, here is a report of my recent two week liveaboard trip to this world class diving destination.
I deliberately choose a two week liveaboard, as it allows for more flexibility in case of some days of bad weather. Personally, I also believe that the 10h+ flight from Europe to the Maldives doesn’t pay of for a a one-week liveaboard trip. An even stronger argument for those travelling from America.
As in 2008, I have chosen to dive again with The True Maldives, under management of Bas van der Mee, a Dutch national. Bas manages two liveaboard: the Blue Dolphin – which I used in 2008 – and recently also the bigger Dhinasha.
In the past, Bas catered primarily for Dutch and Flemish divers. Since this market is quiet small, he now also markets his liveaboards worldwide, hence the reason why I write this report in English. Mind you, most participants are Dutch speakers (though their English is in most instances quiet good).
This time, expectations were even higher than the previous time: the Dhinasha is big enough to get us to Hanifary Bay. Never heard of this place? Well, If you thought Yap or Tofo was the best place to see manta’s, think again. Check these links, an you’ll understand why:
youtube.com/watch?v=yihoIvUBDM4&NR=1&feature=fvwp
youtube.com/watch?v=vINlWt1sKbk&feature=player_embedded
Keep in mind that the manta’s aren’t at Hanifaru Bay year round, but only during the southwest monsoon (for more info on the season, see: meteorology.gov.mv)
Arrival
I flew in with Emirates, merely because they offered the best fare. On average, Emerates gets good reviews. A warning though for those with big bums, on their 777-fleet, Emirates is one of the few airlines using a 10-row configuration in their economy class, whilst most others use a 9-row set up. Result: seats and aisle are narrower, something you’ll notice when the food plates are distributed.
I personally prefer Qatar Airways over Emirates: wider seats, more legroom. Qatar’s cabin layout also gives a more spacier feeling. Keep however in mind that the Doha airport can be chaotic on specific times since it can’t always cope with booming Qatar Airways (tip: pay 40usd and you’ll get acces to the Orxy lounge – cc accepted). A new airport is under construction though and will come online in summer 2011. By comparison, the huge and comfortable Emirates terminal (terminal n° 3) at Dubai is a world of difference.
The staff and food on both airliners excel in my opinion, compared to traditional US and European carriers.
Tip: when booking your seat preference, seatguru.com is a handy tool, especially for people like me that hate the dreaded underseat avod-box.
You’ll get a 30d visa on arrival (free). Keep in mind that the Maldives – being an Islamic country – does not allow the import of alcohol, porc meat and pornographic material. Hypocritically, the sale of alcohol on liveaboards or tourist resorts is allowed (read: taxed alcohol apparently seems not pose any problem (p.s. a beer at the Dhinasha costs 2,25 euro)).
At the arrival hall, Bas met all participants. Tip: to avoid a huge roaming bill, consider buying a Maldives sim-card. Maldives’ main gsm-provider Dhiraagu has an office at the airport. Almost the entire Maldives are covered by a gsm-system (no cmda). Only in-between atoll, coverage may be temporarily lost. Dhiraagu has gprs – slow! – but not edge or 3g. Every 3 days or so, the boat anchors at a wifi-covered area though. The Dhiraagu sim card hereby allows you to get internet access: through an sms, you can apply for an access code. Half an hour internet costs 10 rufi, which is deducted from you prepaid card (for exchange rates, check oanda.com – the Maldives currency is tied to the usd).
We were transferred to our liveaboard through our dhoni (for those not familiar with diving in the Maldives: a liveaboard is virtually always accompanied by a dhoni, a smaller boat on which your diving equipment is stored and from which you will do your dives).
The diving
The check dive was at Lankan Finalahu (aka manta reef). Best check dive ever: two manta’s showed up at the cleaning station.
On our way to Hanifaru bay – situated at Baa atoll – we already had the opportunity to swim with eagle rays and a schools of grey reef and white tip sharks. On day three, we arrived at Hanifaru bay and hit the jackpot as we were able to dive with approx five manta rays. The boat stayed at Hanifaru bay for three days. On all occasions, manta rays where present. The last day was the best with 50+ manta rays in the bay.
Keep in mind that there is no 100% guarantee to see these gentle creatures at Hanifary Bay. The safari prior to ours had no manta encounters at Hanifaru Bay (but did so at other places).
After getting manta OD’ed, it was time to set sail for Rasdhoo atoll, known for occasional encounters with hammer sharks. To see these magnificent sharks, you’ll have to jump in the blue early in the morning. It’s a hit and miss opporitunity. I was fortunate enough to see one about 15 meters below me, to far away for a descent picture.
On day eight, Murphy’s law struck: our compressor broke down, forcing us to sail back to the capital Male (4h). It took one day to get it fixed. In total we lost three dives (we caught up our 'quota' by making a couple of extra dives afterwards) .
At day ten, we sailed to Ari atoll with it’s famous dive spot Maya Thila. After sunset, this place rocks, with hunting moray eels, white tips and stingrays. A spectacular sight. In total, we did three dives here. On each dive, hunting white tips were seen. They hardly pay attention to the divers and thus allowed us to get very, very close (one almost bumped into me). Further down the thila, hunting moray eels could easily be spotted.
Compared to my previous trip, maya thila has grown in popularity. On one occasion, I was able to swim without my own torch as the place was lit like a soccer field.
At the close-by Hafza Thila, I spotted reef sharks at the reeftop sleeping in groups under rocks.
South male atoll formed the final highlight with a couple of channel dives. When diving at the proper tide, these channels see a lot of current, preferred by big game. Channel or ‘kandu’ dives are not for the faint harted: currents can be so strong it tears away your mask (don’t even think of bringing you big fat arse camera’s down here). Saw a nurse shark, eagle rays and schools of grey reef en white tip sharks (tip: leave your neoprene gloves at home and bring protection gloves from your DIY-store. On numerous dives, currents will force you to crawl forward by holding dead coral – diving gloves won’t hold a week).
Normally, three dives a day are scheduled, though only one at the day of arrival and the day before departure (arrival and departure occurs in de morning). If am not mistaken, I saw manta rays on seven dives, grey reef sharks on six dives and eagle rays on four dives.
The boat
The Dhinasha caters for 14 passengers, which is just perfect to me. Nothing worse than jumping with 20+ people in the water.
It has seven cabins with twin beds equipped with a shower and toilet. Each room has an airco outlet with an on/off button. The airco is only turned on at night. The boat feels quiet well maintained. It has one engine and two power generators. The boat has tv & dvd (although hardly used during our trip) and tons of power outlets (I believe they were all continental European type).
There is a large sun deck on top of the boat (keep in mind that the Maldives are situated at the equator – it is very, very easy to get sunburn during the first days). A more covered seating area is installed in front of the boat (my favourite spot).
The boat mainly caters for Dutch. On both occasions I dived with Bas, only Dutch speakers were on board. Their English is normally excellent though. On my trip, two non-dutch speaking divemasters accompanied us, from Denmark and Turkey.
The cook is Nepalese. He did a great job considering that the liveaboard had to stock up for two weeks (read: the freezers only have a limited capacity).
Drinking water must be purchased (1,5l bottle costs 1,75 euro). A soda also costs 1,75 euro. A beer is 2,25 euro. Coffee and thee is available all day round. Since it is made with desalinated water, it tastes a bit awkward though.
The diving equipment stays on a smaller boat - a 'dhoni' - during the entire trip and accompanies the liveaboard throughout its journey. The compressor is also situated on the dhoni. The dhoni is used to get to the dive sites.
pro’s
- drift dives (this liveaboard trip is not for beginners, good buoyancy control is a must)
- big game (manta’s, eagle rays, grey reef sharks, possibly a whale shark)
- when inside the atoll, which is mostly the case, normally calm see (interesting for those prone to seasickness)
- the possibility to do a two week liveaboard. Compared to the classic one week trips, this really feels like a safari (one doesn’t have to think of already packing a couple of days after starting). A two week trip also allows for more flexibility when encountering bad weather or – like I did – a mechanical failure. I’d definitely recommend the two week liveaboard.
- the new boat Dhinasha is far more comfortable as it is bigger and better maintained than the Blue Dolphin. Keep however in mind that this is not a five star Agressor-style liveaboard. The Dhinasha is comfortable though not luxurious.
- the – nepali - cook, who did a great job considering the boat has to conserve food for two weeks (no restock during the safari)
- good value for money liveaboard
- knowledge of the divemasters with regard to dive sites (a must considering a lot of dives are drift dives)
Con’s
- longer and more expensive flight (e.g. compared to Egypt) (tip for finding the best fare: kayak.com)
- Not as many wreck as Egypt
- coral not as beautiful as e.g. Egypt
- not a safari for beginners. One has to feel confident with drift dives and sometimes strong currents (bring gloves and a deco-buoy!)
- during the southwest monsoon, a couple of stormy days are possible, though exceptional. This might prevent the crossing to another atoll (remember however: southwest monsoon = manta season at Hanifaru Bay). I have however visited the Maldives twice now and had on both occasions perfect weather.
- liveaboard caters mainly for Dutch speakers. Although their English is normally perfect, one can expect them to speak Dutch between them in most instances.
Some pictures made with my – cheap – camera:
- manta frenzy at Hanifary Bay: picasaweb.google.com/wim.depondt/Maldives2010MantaMadness?authkey=Gv1sRgCMXphZTj-obUkwE&feat=directlink
- other pictures: picasaweb.google.com/wim.depondt/Maldives2010?authkey=Gv1sRgCO3U7YXapofUcA&feat=directlink
website of the liveboard: thetruemaldives.com
Wim Depondt
Belgium
I deliberately choose a two week liveaboard, as it allows for more flexibility in case of some days of bad weather. Personally, I also believe that the 10h+ flight from Europe to the Maldives doesn’t pay of for a a one-week liveaboard trip. An even stronger argument for those travelling from America.
As in 2008, I have chosen to dive again with The True Maldives, under management of Bas van der Mee, a Dutch national. Bas manages two liveaboard: the Blue Dolphin – which I used in 2008 – and recently also the bigger Dhinasha.
In the past, Bas catered primarily for Dutch and Flemish divers. Since this market is quiet small, he now also markets his liveaboards worldwide, hence the reason why I write this report in English. Mind you, most participants are Dutch speakers (though their English is in most instances quiet good).
This time, expectations were even higher than the previous time: the Dhinasha is big enough to get us to Hanifary Bay. Never heard of this place? Well, If you thought Yap or Tofo was the best place to see manta’s, think again. Check these links, an you’ll understand why:
youtube.com/watch?v=yihoIvUBDM4&NR=1&feature=fvwp
youtube.com/watch?v=vINlWt1sKbk&feature=player_embedded
Keep in mind that the manta’s aren’t at Hanifaru Bay year round, but only during the southwest monsoon (for more info on the season, see: meteorology.gov.mv)
Arrival
I flew in with Emirates, merely because they offered the best fare. On average, Emerates gets good reviews. A warning though for those with big bums, on their 777-fleet, Emirates is one of the few airlines using a 10-row configuration in their economy class, whilst most others use a 9-row set up. Result: seats and aisle are narrower, something you’ll notice when the food plates are distributed.
I personally prefer Qatar Airways over Emirates: wider seats, more legroom. Qatar’s cabin layout also gives a more spacier feeling. Keep however in mind that the Doha airport can be chaotic on specific times since it can’t always cope with booming Qatar Airways (tip: pay 40usd and you’ll get acces to the Orxy lounge – cc accepted). A new airport is under construction though and will come online in summer 2011. By comparison, the huge and comfortable Emirates terminal (terminal n° 3) at Dubai is a world of difference.
The staff and food on both airliners excel in my opinion, compared to traditional US and European carriers.
Tip: when booking your seat preference, seatguru.com is a handy tool, especially for people like me that hate the dreaded underseat avod-box.
You’ll get a 30d visa on arrival (free). Keep in mind that the Maldives – being an Islamic country – does not allow the import of alcohol, porc meat and pornographic material. Hypocritically, the sale of alcohol on liveaboards or tourist resorts is allowed (read: taxed alcohol apparently seems not pose any problem (p.s. a beer at the Dhinasha costs 2,25 euro)).
At the arrival hall, Bas met all participants. Tip: to avoid a huge roaming bill, consider buying a Maldives sim-card. Maldives’ main gsm-provider Dhiraagu has an office at the airport. Almost the entire Maldives are covered by a gsm-system (no cmda). Only in-between atoll, coverage may be temporarily lost. Dhiraagu has gprs – slow! – but not edge or 3g. Every 3 days or so, the boat anchors at a wifi-covered area though. The Dhiraagu sim card hereby allows you to get internet access: through an sms, you can apply for an access code. Half an hour internet costs 10 rufi, which is deducted from you prepaid card (for exchange rates, check oanda.com – the Maldives currency is tied to the usd).
We were transferred to our liveaboard through our dhoni (for those not familiar with diving in the Maldives: a liveaboard is virtually always accompanied by a dhoni, a smaller boat on which your diving equipment is stored and from which you will do your dives).
The diving
The check dive was at Lankan Finalahu (aka manta reef). Best check dive ever: two manta’s showed up at the cleaning station.
On our way to Hanifaru bay – situated at Baa atoll – we already had the opportunity to swim with eagle rays and a schools of grey reef and white tip sharks. On day three, we arrived at Hanifaru bay and hit the jackpot as we were able to dive with approx five manta rays. The boat stayed at Hanifaru bay for three days. On all occasions, manta rays where present. The last day was the best with 50+ manta rays in the bay.
Keep in mind that there is no 100% guarantee to see these gentle creatures at Hanifary Bay. The safari prior to ours had no manta encounters at Hanifaru Bay (but did so at other places).
After getting manta OD’ed, it was time to set sail for Rasdhoo atoll, known for occasional encounters with hammer sharks. To see these magnificent sharks, you’ll have to jump in the blue early in the morning. It’s a hit and miss opporitunity. I was fortunate enough to see one about 15 meters below me, to far away for a descent picture.
On day eight, Murphy’s law struck: our compressor broke down, forcing us to sail back to the capital Male (4h). It took one day to get it fixed. In total we lost three dives (we caught up our 'quota' by making a couple of extra dives afterwards) .
At day ten, we sailed to Ari atoll with it’s famous dive spot Maya Thila. After sunset, this place rocks, with hunting moray eels, white tips and stingrays. A spectacular sight. In total, we did three dives here. On each dive, hunting white tips were seen. They hardly pay attention to the divers and thus allowed us to get very, very close (one almost bumped into me). Further down the thila, hunting moray eels could easily be spotted.
Compared to my previous trip, maya thila has grown in popularity. On one occasion, I was able to swim without my own torch as the place was lit like a soccer field.
At the close-by Hafza Thila, I spotted reef sharks at the reeftop sleeping in groups under rocks.
South male atoll formed the final highlight with a couple of channel dives. When diving at the proper tide, these channels see a lot of current, preferred by big game. Channel or ‘kandu’ dives are not for the faint harted: currents can be so strong it tears away your mask (don’t even think of bringing you big fat arse camera’s down here). Saw a nurse shark, eagle rays and schools of grey reef en white tip sharks (tip: leave your neoprene gloves at home and bring protection gloves from your DIY-store. On numerous dives, currents will force you to crawl forward by holding dead coral – diving gloves won’t hold a week).
Normally, three dives a day are scheduled, though only one at the day of arrival and the day before departure (arrival and departure occurs in de morning). If am not mistaken, I saw manta rays on seven dives, grey reef sharks on six dives and eagle rays on four dives.
The boat
The Dhinasha caters for 14 passengers, which is just perfect to me. Nothing worse than jumping with 20+ people in the water.
It has seven cabins with twin beds equipped with a shower and toilet. Each room has an airco outlet with an on/off button. The airco is only turned on at night. The boat feels quiet well maintained. It has one engine and two power generators. The boat has tv & dvd (although hardly used during our trip) and tons of power outlets (I believe they were all continental European type).
There is a large sun deck on top of the boat (keep in mind that the Maldives are situated at the equator – it is very, very easy to get sunburn during the first days). A more covered seating area is installed in front of the boat (my favourite spot).
The boat mainly caters for Dutch. On both occasions I dived with Bas, only Dutch speakers were on board. Their English is normally excellent though. On my trip, two non-dutch speaking divemasters accompanied us, from Denmark and Turkey.
The cook is Nepalese. He did a great job considering that the liveaboard had to stock up for two weeks (read: the freezers only have a limited capacity).
Drinking water must be purchased (1,5l bottle costs 1,75 euro). A soda also costs 1,75 euro. A beer is 2,25 euro. Coffee and thee is available all day round. Since it is made with desalinated water, it tastes a bit awkward though.
The diving equipment stays on a smaller boat - a 'dhoni' - during the entire trip and accompanies the liveaboard throughout its journey. The compressor is also situated on the dhoni. The dhoni is used to get to the dive sites.
pro’s
- drift dives (this liveaboard trip is not for beginners, good buoyancy control is a must)
- big game (manta’s, eagle rays, grey reef sharks, possibly a whale shark)
- when inside the atoll, which is mostly the case, normally calm see (interesting for those prone to seasickness)
- the possibility to do a two week liveaboard. Compared to the classic one week trips, this really feels like a safari (one doesn’t have to think of already packing a couple of days after starting). A two week trip also allows for more flexibility when encountering bad weather or – like I did – a mechanical failure. I’d definitely recommend the two week liveaboard.
- the new boat Dhinasha is far more comfortable as it is bigger and better maintained than the Blue Dolphin. Keep however in mind that this is not a five star Agressor-style liveaboard. The Dhinasha is comfortable though not luxurious.
- the – nepali - cook, who did a great job considering the boat has to conserve food for two weeks (no restock during the safari)
- good value for money liveaboard
- knowledge of the divemasters with regard to dive sites (a must considering a lot of dives are drift dives)
Con’s
- longer and more expensive flight (e.g. compared to Egypt) (tip for finding the best fare: kayak.com)
- Not as many wreck as Egypt
- coral not as beautiful as e.g. Egypt
- not a safari for beginners. One has to feel confident with drift dives and sometimes strong currents (bring gloves and a deco-buoy!)
- during the southwest monsoon, a couple of stormy days are possible, though exceptional. This might prevent the crossing to another atoll (remember however: southwest monsoon = manta season at Hanifaru Bay). I have however visited the Maldives twice now and had on both occasions perfect weather.
- liveaboard caters mainly for Dutch speakers. Although their English is normally perfect, one can expect them to speak Dutch between them in most instances.
Some pictures made with my – cheap – camera:
- manta frenzy at Hanifary Bay: picasaweb.google.com/wim.depondt/Maldives2010MantaMadness?authkey=Gv1sRgCMXphZTj-obUkwE&feat=directlink
- other pictures: picasaweb.google.com/wim.depondt/Maldives2010?authkey=Gv1sRgCO3U7YXapofUcA&feat=directlink
website of the liveboard: thetruemaldives.com
Wim Depondt
Belgium
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