Need advice on PST hp E7-80

Hey All
Need advice I just purchased four PST HP tanks E7-80 that are still in boxes and never used. And I took one in for a hydro and vip and was told by the LDS that its was not recommended that I take this on my live board boat trip next month because of the chance of flash rust. And he also mentioned that I should buy Faber's to avoid this the flash rust problem, is there any truth to this??? And also wouldn’t they be O2 clean seeing that they are right out of the box. I would like to use a couple tanks with nitrox and trying to save a bit of cash on cleaning.

Not a tank expert here. As far as I know, the issue with using HP tank on boat is that they may not be able to fill to 3442 psi so that you get 80cf of air. As long as you don't let water get inside, flash rust shouldn't happen. And AFAIK, PST's finish is tougher than faber's finish.

As for O2 clean, you only need it if you 1)fill by dive shop who use partial pressure blending 2)you want 40%+ nitrox. If the shop do continous blend, you can get up to 40% without O2 clean.

maxarl:

Hey All
I took one in for a hydro and vip and was told by the LDS that its was not recommended that I take this on my live board boat trip next month because of the chance of flash rust. And he also mentioned that I should buy Faber's to avoid this the flash rust problem, is there any truth to this??? View attachment 98805

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Any truth? Maybe 0.000001% truthful. & while Faber makes a fine bottle, I like yours better.

Unless your bottle was made more than five years ago, you don't need a hydro, only a VIP.

I will let someone else talk about O2 cleaning. I am not up on it.

I don't think the LDS guy was referring to the dive boat's inability to fill to HP service pressure (3442 or 3500 psi). I think he was talk about the potential of getting a "wet fill."

Here in SoCal, it is quite common to get a "wet fill" while on a dive boat. This is caused by either having some moisture inside the filling system (which shouldn't be the case if maintained properly by the dive op) or not being careful about blowing out both the tank valve and the fill attachment prior to filling up the tank. The latter cause is more likely. Once I witnessed an inattentive boat crewmember allow the fill whip to fall into the ocean. I did see him "clear" it afterward, but it made me wonder how often that happens and the crewmember neglects to rinse/clear it properly.

It makes sense to conduct your own visual inspection inside your tank (looking for any liquid/moisture) when you return home from a trip where you were getting fills on a dive boat. The sooner you detect saltwater inside the tank, the sooner you can take steps to get rid of it and the less rust it will cause.

If minor flash rust inside the tank is discovered during an annual VIP or upon your own visual inspection, the tank probably only needs a "whipping" rather than a full-on tumble. Where I live, tumbling costs approx. $25/tank.

I must confess I'm a little puzzled why your "new" tanks required hydro and VIP. As it's already been mentioned, a scuba tank needs to have a hydro once every 5 years. The date of the last hydrotest is stamped on the cylinder. VIP on a new tank consists of removing the tank valve, verifying that foreign matter (water, dead insects, dead mouse) isn't inside, and then replacing the tank valve. I suppose it's possible that you purchased "new" old-stock tanks that were born in/around 2006.

maxarl:

Hey All
Need advice I just purchased four PST HP tanks E7-80 that are still in boxes and never used. And I took one in for a hydro and vip and was told by the LDS that its was not recommended that I take this on my live board boat trip next month because of the chance of flash rust. And he also mentioned that I should buy Faber's to avoid this the flash rust problem, is there any truth to this??? And also wouldn’t they be O2 clean seeing that they are right out of the box. I would like to use a couple tanks with nitrox and trying to save a bit of cash on cleaning.

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Well, I have three different and divergent responses:

1. If I were going on a liveaboard for a week of diving I'd use whatever tanks they provided rather than take my own. If they use aluminum tanks and you want to tweak your trim you can add a single-pocket weight pouch to the tank band.

2. Buying Fabers? Sounds odd. I have PST E7 100's purchased in 2005 (before the PST financial problems) and have not had any rust issues. Were yours manufactured more than five years ago and is that the reason for the hydro? As long as they pass hydro, they're good to go locally or wherever you take them.

3. I wouldn't want to go liveaboard with an op whose crew lets fill whips get wet, even if the tanks are aluminum. Still, I guess stuff happens.

Hope this helps,
Bryan

eponym:

1. If I were going on a liveaboard for a week of diving I'd use whatever tanks they provided rather than take my own. If they use aluminum tanks and you want to tweak your trim you can add a single-pocket weight pouch to the tank band.

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@eponym: In most cases, I'd have to agree with you -- use whatever tanks the dive op has on hand. That way the burden of long term tank maintenance is placed on the dive op.
The only exception would be a SoCal liveaboard trip that began/ended at a port to which I could drive my own car. It's nice having the extra 20+ cuft. of air in my HP100 vs. the typical AL80 rentals found on lots of dive boats.
If I'm flying to meet the boat for the liveaboard trip, then I'm not going to schlep tanks with me. Too much trouble.

Bubbletrubble:

@eponym: In most cases, I'd have to agree with you -- use whatever tanks the dive op has on hand. That way the burden of long term tank maintenance is placed on the dive op.
The only exception would be a SoCal liveaboard trip that began/ended at a port to which I could drive my own car. It's nice having the extra 20+ cuft. of air in my HP100 vs. the typical AL80 rentals found on lots of dive boats. If I'm flying to meet the boat for the liveaboard trip, then I'm not going to schlep tanks with me. Too much trouble.

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Well put. Agree completely, with the provisos that the crew might take liberties when refilling (moisture) or be unable to fill to full HP pressure. And cubic footage you carry for a given dive can be a consideration, no question. I've donated air to a new buddy on more than one recreational dive.

Getting back to the OP, here's a picture of a trim pocket I use, in place.

-Bryan

Well the PST tanks have been in storage for a few years before in got them and 3 are in need of hydro. And yes I will be driving with my equipment from Phoenix and boarding in Long Beach CA. So I assume that that my PST hp80s will be fine to take other than the fact that I will probley get a short fill less than the 3500psi. And you recomend I should do my own visual when I return but does that require for me to replace any o-rings during this inspection?

If it's a new tank is should need it! However who knows how long it's been in storage etc. It's wise to get it properly certified etc. As for the Enriched Air. The tank must go through the EAN process and get the proper EAN decal and certifications. As some places won't fill it unless it's indicated EAN certified. Upto 40%. Over 40% is another test & certification process.

You must also have a EAN Certification by your diving association to dive with EAN. As you may know!!!

Please not that it's your tank your responsibility. Proper documents ensures your held at fualt for anything.

Have fun diving and enjoy!!!