Different props for Tekna/Mako style DPV's?

I'm rebuilding a couple of Gavins that use the Tekna/Mako style clutch and prop assemblies and am woundering about my prop options since theirs are toast?

Can anyone here shed some light on the diffirences between the AJ clutches, HD Delrin Clutch, Standard Mako Clutch, Dive X replacment clutch and prop assembly, regular plastic blades, pinned plastic blades and aluminum blades? I'm also intrested in the Prop-X, but it's not an option for me to give up having a clutch on these. Also, any other options I have not listed and may not be aware of.

Motors are strong and I'm curious about thoughts on best match for their strength.

I have a high RPM Tekna with aluminum blades, have the plastic blades for it as well, and have ordered one of the Dive X kits so I can do some compairison testing, but haven't gotten to it yet. I'll probably just swap out blades on the same DPV and thrust test with fresh batteries. That will give me a clue on power, but am also cutious about battery life and such.

Thanks for sharing if anyone has some knowledge to share.

I have the AJ, HD Delrin, Standard as well as the Dive X standard clutch.

* AJ - great aluminum clutch which doesn't shred away. I like it a lot. Additionally, the Gavin I use has pinned blades. George Irvine pinned them, and a few years back I pinned (?) all the blades to my scooters.
* HD Delrin - I like it a lot too. The delrin material seems to ride the other plate easily and doesn't shred away the first time, second, or third time you get something caught in the blades. It makes positive contact quickly.
* Standard Mako - it's OK. Inexpensive plastic. Nice to have as a spare when you replace it with the AJ clutch. The cheaper plastic doesn't always give positive contact after shredding it.
* Dive X - they've probably replaced the design/plastic from say three-four years ago? I found the prop blades, tail assembly less robust than the standard Mako tail. The blades busted on expedition, as well as the internal assembly of the hub. Bummer to see it break. I replaced all the parts with OEM Oceanic parts and all is good. I would imagine the new LION X's are different?

If I were updating a Gavin I would use AJ clutch and if they are Gavin's I would imagine the blades are all pinned.

Cheers,

X

Thanks for the advice. I do have two sets of pinned blades from Gavin, one has an aluminum clutch, the other is plastic and a bit chewed up so I have to replace it. on both yokes one of the three pins that attach to the blades are sheared off.

The Dive X replacement propeller asembly I was looking at is this one which claims to be beefed up from Mako standards.

Oceanic Style Prop Replacement Kit - Mako / Voyager / Tekna Scooter Parts - Dive Xtras

I will report back once I see it in action if anyone is curious. At 67 bucks for a complete asembly, it seems like a good value if it holds up.

Plan as of now is to set the alum clutch up with pinned blades and the other with the Dive X assembly.

FYI, I got the Dive-X prop assembly in and I like it better than a stock Mako. It's thicker than the Mako blades. adjusts smoothly, will go all the way down to zero movement and according to five laps in my pool, a hair faster than the stock prop on full pitch as well.

I'd love to know what a stock mako prop is. I suspect it has been a moving target. We have three makos all with stock props by they have two different hub styles (two are very smooth adjusting and one has definite stops), however the two with the same hub perform differently - one is slightly faster 200 fps with 1000 rpm motor) and truly zeros out at zero pitch while the other is slower (180 fpm with an identical 1000 rpm motor) and actually backs up slightly at zero pitch. Obviously the hubs allow for slightly different blade pitch angles.

Consequently if there have been similar design and QA changes over the long life of the mako design, a stock prop all be hard to define, let alone compare with other props on an individual case basis, so take any comparisons with a grain of salt as your mileage may vary.

The AJ clutch is great and I think it is an essential upgrade for a Mako or a scooter using mako parts that is used in a cave or that has a hotter wound motor. The original clutch won't endure more than 1 or 2 stoppages and a hot wound motor will eat it up.

The AJ clutch is also a good idea with metal blades as they are reported to grab a bit more water than stock blades - but it's hard to say given variation in hubs and pitch angles.

Be mindful of those aluminum blades. The increased mass of them can really do a number on your hand if you have to stop the blades (compared to pinned plastic blades). They also can't be broke off if need be.

IIRC, the mako clutches are a one time use part, and must be trashed if you need to slip it. I don't like to rely on things that can't be tested, so all my scooters (Gavins) have an aluminum clutchplate in them.

Make sure you use a new "special screw" in those Gavins (get them from Trey) every time you mess with the washer stack. Its bad news if you don't, esp if you're relying on the scooters at all.

Thanks for the advice, I have a set of aluminum blades that came with a different DPV purchase, but I think they will end up in the spares bin. What are the percieved advantage of them? They aren't cheap.

Theyre stiffer than the plastic blades, and *might* be a bit faster.

PfcAJ:

Theyre stiffer than the plastic blades, and *might* be a bit faster.

Click to expand...

I've did a little testing on this in my pool this weekend with a pull scale. Same scooter, Mako, Dive-X replacement blades, Gavin pinned blades and aluminum blades. From my pull scale the difference is non existant on blades. Only change I noticed was a decrease in thrust if you use a hub that limits the max pitch with that little nub on the inside.