Bracketing, or HDR, UW - who does it?

Mark Derail · Nov 4, 2011

Nikon D90 and up have this great feature.

My next UW setup will be with the camera and two strobes. I'm wondering if I could setup (perhaps with a monopod UW) an EV-based 3x3 shots of bracketing for HDR w/Photoshop & Photomatix.

Has anyone done this before?

I'm worried that it can't be done, since the Nikon cannot communicate +/- levels to the strobes, since they are connected via fibre-optic.
Varying the speed won't accomplish much UW when using a flash and low-light.

But....I just gotta TRY!!!

Bubbletrubble · Nov 5, 2011

Aside from addressing strobe synchronization issues, how do you intend to minimize movement within the scene?

You'd need a stationary camera setup (think tripod, not monopod), clear water, and a stationary subject (think rock, not fish). Seems like a limited range of UW photo opportunities if you ask me.

Good luck with the exposure bracketing...

BigJeff · Nov 5, 2011

Go for it! I didn't think the in camera Panorama would work, but it does.

I had not thought much about the in camera HDR but I will be trying that next, could work well with wrecks.

Let us know how yours work out.

Warren_L · Nov 5, 2011

Mark Derail:
Nikon D90 and up have this great feature.

My next UW setup will be with the camera and two strobes. I'm wondering if I could setup (perhaps with a monopod UW) an EV-based 3x3 shots of bracketing for HDR w/Photoshop & Photomatix.

Has anyone done this before?

I'm worried that it can't be done, since the Nikon cannot communicate +/- levels to the strobes, since they are connected via fibre-optic.
Varying the speed won't accomplish much UW when using a flash and low-light.

But....I just gotta TRY!!!

If you use wired strobed with TTL capability you may be able to do it. I know Ikelite makes TTL compatible housings for Nikon dSLRs to use with their strobes, or you could buy an external TTL controller if your housing does not have it built in. Your strobes would have to be able to cycle fast enough if you are on auto bracket with continuous shutter. I haven't tried it myself since I don't have or shoot with TTL, but I have done some UW HDR using ambient light and autobracket. I find it's difficult to get decent results, but some of them turned out ok.

Mark Derail · Nov 7, 2011

Thanks guys, TTL would be the way to go, I agree.

Bubbletrubble - I agree that moving fish would be an issue, but should be easy to fix post-processing in Photoshop. Of course I'd be taking more than just a total of 9 pictures.

Similar technique as taking 100 pics of a famous statue with tourists, and gradually just keeping the "wanted" background.

The cool effect is the "above", the water line, then the "below", all in HDR. Printed to 54 inch wide canvas and five feet long, taken of a resort beach and then selling the print to the resort in exchange for a free stay/lunch...

PatW · Nov 7, 2011

HDR photography usually involves multiple exposures at different exposures. That pretty much requires a really stable tripod and a remote firing of the camera shutter. As mentioned above, HDR photography is usually done on motionless subjects like landscapes. Underwater would not seem to be all that conducive to setting up a tripod. Also the subjects underwater are usually in motion - sea fans, sea whips, sea rods. I suppose one could take a photo of a wreck or a coral head but any fish in it would be a mess.

Chuck Tribolet · Nov 7, 2011

What PatW said.

HDR generally won't be necessary UW because we are providing the light to the foreground (with flash) AND can control the
background exposure. Histograms in the camera show us what the right exposures are.

Larry C · Nov 24, 2011

I would think that you could use HDR for a natural light shot it you use a tripod and there's not too much water movement. I'd be curious about using a strobe and natural light on different shots while bracketing. Give it a try and show us what happens.

elan · Nov 24, 2011

Chuck Tribolet:
What PatW said.

HDR generally won't be necessary UW because we are providing the light to the foreground (with flash) AND can control the
background exposure. Histograms in the camera show us what the right exposures are.

But hdr is not used to fix the exposure issues but rather to increase the dynamic range AFAIK

I personally would not go an HDR way until all the other ways of expressing the artistism are exhausted

HDR can have an effect that can be negative. It will make more subjects on the photo visible and detailed and potentially overloading the composition. That will demand more carefull planning of the composition. So the question is will it really be beneficial at the end after so much hassle.

If you want to do it for more detailed representation of the reality its a different story of cause.

Bracketing, or HDR, UW - who does it?

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