Pulau Weh - Seeking the Truth [Trip Report]

Fellas, upon hearing mix review here n there, I've decided to try Pulau Weh. Just up for some leisure dives while investigating what for real and what are hoax. DC? We decided to put Lumba Lumba Diving at test (hope we gonna put up diving with em till the end). This report is a similar version i've posted on a local Malaysian divers website knowned as MalaysianUnderwater.

Trip is from 11-14 March. Sorry guys, this is kindda wordy but just bare with this

11 MARCH 2012
The Travelling

We set off from Penang on Firefly to Banda Aceh. On time flight and full on board. Supposedly it should be eight divers but due to stupid mistake with passport validity, we are down to seven. 1 hour 40 minutes later, we landed at Bandar Udara Internasional Sultan Iskandar Muda (its the airport).

We did prior arrangement with a local agent for land transport and ferry. Greeted by Mimi.. to be exact, Pak Mimi (whom i thought is a chick initially.. lost IDR 100000 to my wife for a bet). Onto a van and off we go. First thing is lunch! Before that, we stopped by at the massive grave of the 2004 tsunami victim - Kuburan Masal Siron. Lunch is at Rumah Makan Masam Keu-eung with nasi Aceh. Guys, it is mostly nasi Aceh here which is totally different from nasi padang. Similar way of serving the dishes but very diff. Try the Ayam Tangkap - fried chicken with spices. Very nice. Bla bla bla during the way and we were at Ulee Lheue at about 3.00pm. On board of Express Bahari SB at 4pm - VIP class - aircond - entertaiment is old time indonesian song.. hehe

45 mins later we were greeted by Pak Har, our local man for landtransport in Balohan. Yep, many will try to approach to carry luggage and transport. Old van, no aircond but a fair transport. Stopped by Sabang town for makan-makan again. Yep, satay gurita is there and a must try. Ask for satay jawa where it comes with peanuts gravy. I can't take satay padang where they use flour gravy (tried that in padang before). Must try Roti Bakar Khas Bandung at the food court just by the sea. Guys, seriously must try!

Done with makan, off we go to Lumba Lumba. Dunno what to expect but somehow we decided to went straight to KM NOL, the starting point of Indonesia. It was already dark and trhe road is narrow. 7.23pm (Indonesian time) were were there enjoying the sun which already at the set (hehe.. mind my english). Upon arrival we were greeted by a wild boar and left some of us running up and down (learnt later that it got a name, Broy. That poor fella is probably hungry). Beautiful scenery and u can actually see the waves hitting onto the wall fiecely... What a view and no way i'm gonna be swimming down there (without knowing that we gonna dive there later on the second day).

Reached lumba lumba at about 8pm. Greeted by some Adrian a DMT from Holland and Gary, an AI from UK. Left the gears and off to the room for a quick shower and prayers. Dinner is at Dang Dang Na Restaurant & Bungalow, just next to lumba lumba. Good food! Off we go, tomorrow is an early start. Before leaving, we ordered for breakfast for tomorrow. Well, food is not that slow. Fair timing as for me. Very inlike here in Malaysia, they prepare food quietly and tadaaaa... its done. And the food is in a very generous amount. fruit juices mostly at IDR8,000. Pure juice and generously prepared. Try the avacado. The nasi goreng udang is with 'REAL' udang. we ate only at Dang Dang Na throughout the stay.

Tips and damage:
Land and Ferry transport (return): IDR 415,000 perpax.
Lunch for eight (including the driver) - IDR 308,000.
Dinner at Dang Dang Na - IDR 25,000 perpax (estimate).

SECOND DAY - 12 MARCH 2012
The Diving

The day started with a big breakfast at 7.30am (indonesia time. An Hour diff - Malaysia is 8.3oam).Three dives for the day. Lumba Lumba is up for a normal two dives but the extra is upon request. The center open at 8.00am. They will normally do first dive at 9.30am and the following at 2.00pm. We do the first set up and the rest are all by the local Lumba Lumba crew. Gear handling? Pretty good. They carry ur gears and do the changing for u throughtout the dives. That includes cleaning too. Notify them if u wanna handle ur gear personally. The fiber glass boat is on maintainence. Three DM with us. All local boys, Elly (the senior), Ampon and Roby with good english. They look after u real good.. hehe.. Sorry guys, aint much pics to be posted. All turns crappy!! Haiyaa..

FIRST DIVE - Rubiah Sea Garden - 0940H
Depth - 22.7m
Time - 41 mins
Temp - 28
Viz - 30m - Great

Rubiah Sea Garden is fairly near. Less than 20 minutes ride on the wooden boat. The site is near to Rubiah Island. Plenty of fish. Lots of Blue Sea Star (linckia laevigata). Unfortunately, camera got foggy

Plenty of Tube Coral (tubastraes micrantha) and others (too many to check lah weii). Glimpse of Varicose wart slug were also seen. Not too forget, Gorganian Fan Coral, Black Spotted and Giant Moray as well. It is a garden and live up to the name. Nope, see no Honeycomb. Amazing viz.

SECOND DIVE - Batee Tokong - 1336H
Max Depth - 21.7m
Time - 42 mins
Temp - 28
Viz - 30m - Great

Abundance amount of fish. And unbelievable amount of eels as well. Just name it.. black spotted, white eyed, giant moray and even fimbriated moray. Moray everywhere and every inch of the site.

Healthy hard corals. Spotted a Peacock mantis as well and spiny lobster. Octopus were seen as well - twice. Both hiding in holes, shying away from us.There are more but i'm busy with taking care of the wife.. hehe.. Stomach too full since we took lunch before the dive.. barely can breathe..

THIRD DIVE - Lumba Lumba House Reef - 1648H
Max Depth - 15.5m
Time - 55 mins
Temp - 28
Viz - 15m - Good

This time the mat saleh came with us. Giving the local DM a little break. Gary and Adrian leading the house reef. The house reef is divided into two area. We went to the right site where the small boat wreck is. Plenty of coral banded and durban dacing shrimp. No reef sharks, turtles or manta. SIgh.. but we bumped into lots of lionfish and a huge scorpionfish. Pretty ugly but yet beautiful fella (dun touch, it aint gonna be beautiful once it sting). Lots of staghorn and Godeffroy Sea Cucumber (euapta godeffroyi).. aiyoo, thought it was a sea snake. The prize is the Flying Gurnards.. very rarely seen. I wish i have my camera with me..

Thanks for the detail report - initialy I thought it was dining trip not diving trip.
I like batee tokong - moray were everywhere

Thanks for the feedback Wisnu.. It is a diving & dining trip indeed.. Haha

I like batee tokong too. And canyon as well. Strong current but those two are seriously beautiful. Will post more later today.

lol at the mat saleh reference ... ok lah too much makan talk - so many meal sites reviewed but you only did 2 dive sites???

As Wisnu says a dining trip huh?

Details of other dives....amount of divers on boats etc??

Were the dive briefings followed by DMs?

Do they have 02 and fire extinguishers on the boats that go out?

Gee13, patience my friend.. More to come. As people are saying.. 'eat,sleep, dive'

THIRD DAY - 13 MARCH 2012 - Final Posting
The Diving

Start off fresh. Again with breakfast at 7.30am. Suit up and on the boat at 9.00am. Technically, we had four dives on the final day:

FOURTH DIVE - Canyon - 0950H
Depth - 23.5m
Time - 36 mins
Temp - 27
Viz - 20m - Great
in the earlier posting, i did said something about viewing big waves onto the wall not too far from KM NOL. Damn, it was the Canyon. Seeing mild current of the surface. Gear up and into the water we go. Didnt wait long before we decent as it is kindda choppy. Viz is damn good down there. Lots and lots of gorganion sea fans and just soon after we learn what the canyon is all about and why it is being called the canyon. Nope, we see no pelagic. I was told if the water is a lot cooler, we might get a chance for manta. Just after 10 minutes, we started to feel the current. Kick and kick, there's a no go. Current getting stronger and we follow the drift before settling low. While drifting, we saw a honeycomb swimming gracefully alongside with us before disappering. I was low on weight and did what i would call a nearly fail safety stop. Canyon is a beautiful site. Go there to appreciate it.

FIFTH & SIXTH DIVE - SABANG WRECK & HOT SPRING - 1320H
Depth - 13.3m & 11.1m
Time - 38 mins & 22M
Temp - 28
Viz - <10 & 15m
Sabang Wreck is a tugboat near sabang jetty. Sandy bottom. Viz can be terrible especially if one fella started to stir the sand and create 'sandstorm'. Somehow i feel the sea water is much saltier here. Water quality i no good. I'm not fond of this site. but the Hot Spring is not bad. Upon arrival, we were greeted by the smell of sulphur. It is kindda cool seing bubble from the bottom. My advise, do not bring any silver item to this site. The chemichal reaction can turn silver items into black colour.

SEVENTH DIVE - LUMBA LUMBA HOUSEREEF - 1741H
Depth - 16.1m
Time - 59 mins
Temp - 27
Viz -15m
We decided to go left since yesterday we explored the right side. Leafy and bearded scorpionfish, sole fish and plenty other more. Not so much coral except for staghorn and few soft corals. But the many underwater creatures can be seen. Wonderful for muck dive. For the first time i bumped onto a fu manchu lionfish.. sorry guys, the pics is kindda blurry but just wanna show u the fu manchu. Searching for the flying gurnards again but no where to be found.

After the long satisfying dive, time to pack and dry off the gears. Settle the payment and stuff. Incredible seven dives with Lumba Lumba and i like it. Next day, we are moved out at 6.30am, hoping to come again.. hehe