Mask and snorkel? [Archive] - ScubaBoard - Scuba Diving Forum - Diving Social Network

View Full Version : Mask and snorkel?


Sponsored Link

BellDive
April 9th, 2012, 08:01 AM
Hey all, so I went to buy mask n snorkel so I cod start practicing in pool but ended up not buying as was not sure suddenly what to look for. Questions: 1) does snorkel tip have to be orange? Most in the sets were not and they were all from Mares.2) it's. Etter that mask eyes areseperate or one space? 3) what to look out for? Thank you all!

FoxHound
April 9th, 2012, 09:49 AM
A snorkel is a snorkel is a snorkel really......nothing really amazing to look out for that way. Most important thing when looking for a mask is fit and comfort....usually they go hand in hand.....if a mask fits, its comfortable, if it doesn't fit it wont be comfortable.

Most people will tell you about how such and such a name brand fits them....well that's great but everyone's face is different......find the one that fits your face and all will be good!

Lemna
April 9th, 2012, 10:06 AM
The all important thing is fit. If a mask doesn't fit it won't do you any good. Bonus points for being small: easier to clear when it floods. And like FoxHound says: a snorkel is a snorkel. Inexpensive and simple is what you are looking for.

DivemasterDennis
April 9th, 2012, 10:12 AM
In a snorkel, you want a decent diameter barrel, a flex hose up to the mouth piece, and a clearing "valve" in the bottom of the mouth piece. As to a Mask, fit is everything. Decent snorkel around here is about $30.00 A good mask, anywhere from $50 to $120.00.
DivemasterDennis

danvolker
April 9th, 2012, 10:48 AM
I am going to differ from many here on the response.... I think you should get a freedive mask and snorkel, and LEARN the proper snorkel technique.
FReedivers get annoyed when they see scuba divers with such poor snorkelling skills, that they need to use a snorkel with purge buit into it.

While having a "dry" or purge equiped snorkel means you do not need to LEARN any new skill, it also drastically limits your abilities in snorkeling.
Dry snorkels tend to become a problem when you need them the most....like when you need to use the snorkel due to no air in your tank, or to save some air in your tank, and the waves have become so large that the auto purge on the no-skill snorkels begins to constantly mal-function, and you suddenly can't breathe well. Or, the horrible flexible hose snorkels so many scuba divers end up with, that allow the tube of the snorkel to flop around, if the waves get large--just when you need to be able to point the top some place and keep it there.
A real freediver type snorke will COST LESS that the nonsense flex hose and Dry / purge snorkels....the fancy no-skill snorkels can run upwards of $80 for junk that can fail when you need the snorkel most...the Freediver versions tend to be more like $20 to $30, are much wider bore so you can breathe easier, and have less CO2 buildup than the fancy no-skill scuba diver snorkels.

A freedive type snorkel requires someone to "teach you" how to blow water out of the snorkel tube after you go under water. While not intuitive, this is so easy, that if someone is so uncordinated that they can't learn this in 30 minutes, then they should not ever become a scuba diver.. Period.
As a scuba diver, you SHOULD get good snorkeling without your tank on....this is really far more important than how well you can swim....
For a scuba diver that finds them self on the surface far from shore, freediver skills with mask and snorkel will allow them to be absolutely comfortable in 8 foot seas or larger, and to be able to relax for many hours like this...swimming in an appropriate direction.
As a scuba diver, the very KNOWLEDGE of how competent you would be on the surface, with or without air in your tank, means a huge amount to your comfort level as a diver in the water.

A nice Bonus is that now when you would like, you can enjoy snorkeling as much as scuba diving, whenever you have the opportunity.

Best mask will often be a freedive mask as well...they usually cost less than scuba masks, are less likely to leak if they fit well, since they tend to have better seals, and the low volume nature is a plus for scuba....

One place to look is https://www.flfreedivers.com/store/index.php?cPath=40&osCsid=p4jh464v0ggmm90cbilatcp9v6 for snorkels...
or for masks https://www.flfreedivers.com/store/index.php?cPath=25&osCsid=p4jh464v0ggmm90cbilatcp9v6

or for fins https://www.flfreedivers.com/store/index.php?cPath=218_216&osCsid=p4jh464v0ggmm90cbilatcp9v6 with Amazon doing the fins also for cheap Amazon.com: Cressi Men's Gara 3000 LD Long-Distance Long Blade Diving Fins: Sports & Outdoors (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014F1SX8/ref%3Dasc_df_B0014F1SX81947582/%3Ftag%3Daskcom05el-20%26creative%3D394997%26creativeASIN%3DB0014F1SX8 %26linkCode%3Dasn) cressis that are soft enough for a new diver to feel no exertion with.... The fins thing gets religious... if you want scuba fins, fine, I am not going to argue that point....the snorkel issue though I will hammer on ! :-)

DM_cappie
April 9th, 2012, 12:24 PM
I agree with danvolker IF you only want to do free diving and just that....
however if your looking to practice for dive certification then Id say go out and buy the least expensive model you can find that has a flex hose, comfortable mouthpiece, and clearing valve at the bottom. While the free diving snorkels are nice, because they don't have a flex hose portion when your done practicing and move to scuba, the snorkel will interfere with the regulator underwater. this will lead to buying a new snorkel for diving and all the technique you picked up in the pool with the free diving snorkel will have to be tweaked for the new snorkel.
As far as mask goes, don't get too concerned about color or style, try as many as you can and see how they fit on your face, from there you can select the color and style you want. personally I favor the low volume single pane masks, but you may find a different style fits and works better for you.

danvolker
April 9th, 2012, 12:47 PM
I agree with danvolker IF you only want to do free diving and just that....
however if your looking to practice for dive certification then Id say go out and buy the least expensive model you can find that has a flex hose, comfortable mouthpiece, and clearing valve at the bottom. While the free diving snorkels are nice, because they don't have a flex hose portion when your done practicing and move to scuba, the snorkel will interfere with the regulator underwater. this will lead to buying a new snorkel for diving and all the technique you picked up in the pool with the free diving snorkel will have to be tweaked for the new snorkel.



Again.....if this is just an agency issue, and you will never again use the snorkel, then fine..get the floppy hose snorkel, don't really learn the skill, and hope you never find yourself wishing you had freedive snorkelling skills at the surface.

If you like the idea of having real life saving equipment like a freedive snorkel and the skill to use it, then you can easily figure out how you like carrying it or configuring it for the open water dives you will be doing.
Even with my long hose/necklace reg configuration, I can comfortaBLY wear the freedive snorkel on my mask strap when scuba diving....occaisions where I might want to do this, would include a shore dive, or any dive where there was a good chance I might end up on my own on the surface for an extended period--as in any time you are on an anchor diving boat charter, and a current or bad weather comes up durring the dive.

If there is only a very remote chance I might want it, then it can be stored in a thigh pocket on wet suit or dry suit ( which every diver should have --and use instead of BC pockets)...or in whatever other storage option the diver has with the rig they are using.

Many dive instructors do not actually know how to use a freedive snorkel...and they need to spend 10 minutes to fix that !!! :-)
Once you learn how to use one, and try it in challenging conditions, versus the floppy hose version with purge in challenging conditions, you would never want to be in the floppy purge version again.....My advice is for Scuba Diving. It is aimed as much at the heads of the training agencies as it is at the OP.

Dive Agencies use expedience in figuring out how to cut time and expense in training new students...the floppy purge snorkels fit the bill here.
If you want to be BETTER on the surface than the average/mediocre diver, then learn the freediving techniques for surface snorkelling and in-water comfort...and apply this to your scuba diving! New divers CAN be better than average.

g1138
April 9th, 2012, 01:10 PM
Common myth that freediving snorkels interfere with hoses. The main reason for this myth is because scuba divers w/ bad freediving skills push their snorkel butt up to the mask frame, where as divers with good freediving skills will push the snorkel back along the mask strap, using a snorkel keeper as an attachment. Doing this allows any snorkel to stay out of the way, and allows the snorkel to come straight and clean into the mouth when needed.

With this method you don't need a flexible corrugated tube on your snorkel which is only needed when you push the snorkel butt up against the mask frame. With the snorkel pushed up to the mask frame, the corrugated tube allows the snorkel mouthpiece to fall clear of the hoses, where as the curve of the standard J-snorkel will hook onto hoses. With this configuration, the corrugated hose allows the bottom half of the snorkel to twist and curve into the diver's mouth. This corrugated tube however is still the bane of many diver's entanglement issues, which is why a lot of divers say to ditch the snorkel after class (how's that for wasting money?).

With the snorkel pushed back along the mask strap, the mouthpiece (J-type or corrugated hose type) will be at your clavicle and clear of all hoses. With a snorkel keeper used as an attachment in this configuration, you'll be able to pivot the snorkel so it can come clean and straight into your mouth.
With this configurations, the corrugate hose becomes a gimmick that's not needed at all. It serves no purpose.

Dry snorkels can become jammed with large sand, restricting air flow entirely (depending on the beach this could be very likely to non-existent).
The top dry valve also has a smaller orfice for air compared to a regular splash guard or plain snorkel. It also takes significantly longer to blast clear than an open top regular snorkel.
Splash guard snorkels are nice, but not a necessity if you practice good skin diving skills.

So for a snorkel, get a cheap J-valve snorkel, purge or no purge. I prefer no purge because it means you can blast clear as hard as you want. With purge snorkels a big blast clear might go out the bottom of the purge, meaning you have no air and still have all that water in the snorkel. A normal teen and adult will have enough lung power to blast clear any snorkel w/o a purge. With purge snorkels you often have to focus on using a light purge to really effectively clear the snorkel; this may sound ideal (using a light purge) but when your stressed it's very hard to control (ie during high waves, when you're winded, or when you're running low on breath).


Masks are a different story. 2 pane masks tend to be less volume than 1 pane. Meaning it takes less air to clear your mask if it's flooded.
1 pane tends to have a bigger peripheral view than 2 pane, but this can change depending on the manufacturer. You do NOT notice the "blind spot" in the middle of your mask on 2 pane masks, unless you go cross eyed.

The most important thing about a mask is the fit. You should be able to hold the mask (w/ no strap) on your face by breathing in through your nose (using suction alone). A stellar fitting mask will have no gaps between your face and the skirt when you just lay it on your face, head tilted up. (once again, no mask strap, but no suction this time)

Clear VS Black mask
Clear allows more light in, which can create glare, but a feeling of less claustrophobia for some. The glare can be annoying if you're trying to use a camera or view into a dark nook for sealife.

Black mask take away this glare, but can give you a feeling of claustrophobia. If you're not claustrophobic, then it shouldn't matter.
I prefer black mask because during sunny days you're not constantly squinting on the surface. The mask can act like a visor against the sun if you turn your head the right way.

Purge or no Purge mask
Like snorkels it isn't necessary. Some may like it, preferably those who breath out their nose when diving. It can make mask clearing easier, but it can also fail because of sand. Just like with purge snorkels, over purging can force all the air out and still leave water in the mask. You have to force yourself to not purge to hard

Side Viewing panes or standard
Side viewing panes adds just a tiny bit more peripheral viewing room for your, but makes the mask very high volume. Unless you prefer to strain your eyes (VS turning your head) when you want to look sideways, then forget about this option.


---------- Post added April 9th, 2012 at 10:18 AM ----------

Snorkel examples that I prefer are soft, not made of plastic but with a flexible synthetic, and no purge, corrugated hose, or other gimmicks:
Cressi Corsica
120936
Riffe J-snorkel
120935
Mares Pro flex
120937

Many other manufacturer's still make standard J-snorkels. Feel free to mix and match with your mask.

DM_cappie
April 9th, 2012, 01:25 PM
sorry Dan didn't mean to hurt your feelings

danvolker
April 9th, 2012, 01:29 PM
sorry Dan didn't mean to hurt your feelings
C'mon..I did not respond like that :-)

This is almost a rant topic for me, because of so many years of experience with dives where you may need a snorkel, and the first hand experience, many times, of the floppy and purge snorkels not working well.
I actually was happy about your post, because it gave me another shot :-)

DM_cappie
April 9th, 2012, 01:40 PM
lol ok then, I guess it was just my inference then that made it sound that way.....
anyways BellDive I think you got some good feedback so far and might want to think about trying both types out (iff possible) before making a purchase....

g1138
April 9th, 2012, 01:41 PM
ahem....
120938

Sorry, couldn't resist. :D

danvolker
April 9th, 2012, 01:44 PM
We have had many threads on SB about LIFE SAVING GEAR....Everything from Epirbs to Nautilus Lifelines, to inflatable dive rafts, and on and on.....
So imagine you were 3 to 10 miles off shore, and had the expectation that suddenly, you would be out here on your own for many hours, maybe even a 24 hour day till someone found you....I am not talking about planning for something like this, I mean, out of the blue, it just happened..the impossible....

Freedive skills and a Freedive snorkel are essential lifesaving equipment for this. No other special gear is needed, for you to survive for this kind of duration..just the skill to use them at a freediver level..on the surface.

You might even remove the bc and push it in front of you, and have the tank as something you have to push in front of any curious sharks, that just need a solid object to get a reaction from, over the many hours you are drifting in deep water. As long as you can remain awake, as long as your exposure protection ( choice of wetsuit or dry suit for day) is keeping you warm, and if you have some moderate fitness, you don't need anything else....
I would call this pretty damn cheap insurance...just having to learn freedive level snorkeling skills, and getting the less expensive simple J snorkel.

Another plus, would be if you had a compass ( you know you should) , then you could be slowly swimming in the direction of shore the whole time, breathing through the snorkel.
Or, the more likely scenario, you are just far from the boat, low on air, and you just swim toward the boat, with snorkel and compass, looking up for boat every couple of minutes. Facing away from the boat, kicking on your back, is not the best way to find the boat....and a poor way to swim to shore also, compared to the efficiency of a flat horizontal swimming position on top of the water, breathing through the snorkel....When the boat is coming to you, the swimming on the back is fine.....and the boat IS coming to you anyway, most of the time, right?

Crewfish13
April 9th, 2012, 01:58 PM
Dan, what exactly is the correct way to breathe through a snorkel? My SSI info briefly covered "popping," and I've been practicing it in pool so that I can do it less consciously, but is there a better way?

OP, FWIW, I certified last fall, and did one "post-cert" dive. SSI required that we carry our snorkel through the cert dives, so I had it for my first 4. On the 5th, I decided to take it off because I thought it was getting in my way. When I completed the dive, I had a 200-yard or so surface swim back to the entry point, and really missed it. Swimming on my back and rolling over every so often to make sure I was still headed in the right direction got old pretty quickly. Whatever snorkel you get, spend some time to get comfortable with it.

I've got a flex-tube bottom-purge dry snorkel that my LDS recommended (about $25). Mine's black tipped, so I'd say orange isn't necessary. If you're worried about getting hit by boats, I'd think you'll want something more visible than a couple square inched of blaze orange anyway.

danvolker
April 9th, 2012, 07:52 PM
If someone showed you this "popping" technique, then you know 90% of the learning issue....You need a sense of where the top of the tube is pointing, and how to fix it quickly if it gets out of position.
A little time snorkeling without tanks in decent size waves should help you learn the rhythm of waves and breathing...this is more experience than something you can read... If you actually do a little freediving also, then you will gain comfort and security underwater without breathing, and knowledge of how easy and controllable this is....it does help with scuba to know this kind of thing.

If you learn this with a good freediving, J shaped snorkel, then try a floppy $80 snorkel with a purge, you will hate it...it wont stay where you want it well in bigger waves, the purge does not work as well as the j snorkel used properly, and CO2 should load much more into the expensive nonsense rigs.

Also, the time you spend practicing some freedive snorkel technique, is also time to better perfect your kicking tewchnique, also better learned without tank and BC on for perfecting.

Bubbletrubble
April 9th, 2012, 08:24 PM
I'm all for the development of freediving snorkel techniques. Such skills can enhance one's comfort in the water.
I also agree with the recommendation for a simple J-shaped snorkel. The ones with purge valves or even those "dry" snorkels are pretty crappy.

However, I find that mounting a snorkel permanently to a mask (as many divers do) interferes with quick deployment of my primary in an air-sharing scenario.
If I feel that a snorkel is needed on a dive, I find a different way to attach it to my rig. When needed, I pull out the snorkel and tuck it under my mask strap.

OzGriffo
April 9th, 2012, 09:09 PM
I snorkelled before I learnt to dive, and while I would never claim that I was a brilliant snorkeller, never had a problem with clearing a snorkell after diving down. The problem now I have is that I forget that i'm snorkelling and have often taken a "breath" underwater. Not fun. Must practice more often :-)

freewillie
April 10th, 2012, 02:56 AM
No, the tip does not have to be orange. It can be any color you like. My daughter and I have folding snorkels that roll up and fit in your BC. I also have a standard snorkel that attaches to your mask. I dive kelp and for me is just one more thing to catch so my preference is to put one in my pocket for the occasional time on a surface swim I might want one.

The biggest key in buying a mask is fit. Mares makes some nice masks but there are many on the market. I dive an black Atomic subframe. Even the smaller size same mask in Atomic was too big for my daughter, so she has Cressi Eyes clear with pink accents. Fits her well. It doesn't make a difference if it is a single pane or double window as long as it fits well and is in your price range.

g1138
April 10th, 2012, 04:05 AM
I snorkelled before I learnt to dive, and while I would never claim that I was a brilliant snorkeller, never had a problem with clearing a snorkell after diving down. The problem now I have is that I forget that i'm snorkelling and have often taken a "breath" underwater. Not fun. Must practice more often :-)

Take the snorkel out of your mouth when freediving; problem solved....hopefully. Reason for this is if you blackout then you mouth isn't open to the water.
When surfacing you can either replace the snorkel or breach high enough to get a breath.

miketsp
April 10th, 2012, 07:49 AM
..snip..
If you learn this with a good freediving, J shaped snorkel, then try a floppy $80 snorkel with a purge, you will hate it...it wont stay where you want it well in bigger waves, the purge does not work as well as the j snorkel used properly, and CO2 should load much more into the expensive nonsense rigs.
..snip..


I have to disagree. I snorkeled very regularly for over 35 years using various types of J shaped snorkel before changing to a floppy one with a purge some 6 years ago. No way am I ever going back. I've never had any problem whatsoever with the purge.

BellDive
April 10th, 2012, 12:27 PM
Hey everyone, and thank you all for your answers, i've read them all but too many to reply individually.

Clearly there's pro's n cons about the different snorkels and right now i'm actually even a little more confused haha..but, i think i will go for the simple J one at first.

I plan to do most of my dives in Mediterranean (off the coast of Tel Aviv) and in Eilat (red sea) and initially i will be doing more shore dives than boat dives, especially in Eilat where it's quite common (i hear) to snorkel out as the reef etc is very close to shore.
So i will buy the simple one, regular J without the dry feature and floppyness (bendable) etc. and hopefully it will be ok. I am not a free diver or anything like that either, just a complete newbie looking to buy something suitable for my level and location of dives...

Regarding mask, yep, definitely need a good fit. Thanks for the tip about clear vs black also!

Finding so much help on this board it's really great (i admit becoming kinda addicted...) :o)

TSandM
April 10th, 2012, 01:14 PM
A couple of points I'd like to add . . . One is that, at least in our area, if you need bifocal lenses fitted to your mask, you must have one with two separate lenses.

The other is MY take on mask fit. I don't like checking it by having someone breathe in through their nose. If you suck hard enough, you can make almost any mask stick. I prefer to put the mask on my face and push gently on it until the skirt deforms a little. If I let go (and don't let any air out my nose) the mask should remain on my face without the strap. If it doesn't, it will leak.

BellDive
April 10th, 2012, 01:43 PM
A couple of points I'd like to add . . . One is that, at least in our area, if you need bifocal lenses fitted to your mask, you must have one with two separate lenses.

The other is MY take on mask fit. I don't like checking it by having someone breathe in through their nose. If you suck hard enough, you can make almost any mask stick. I prefer to put the mask on my face and push gently on it until the skirt deforms a little. If I let go (and don't let any air out my nose) the mask should remain on my face without the strap. If it doesn't, it will leak.

Thanks!
Ok so you put the mask on dry i assume, with your head tilted back/forward?
SOrry for silly question, but i honestly don't know any other real way to check the mask, only heard of the - head tilted forward, put on w/out strap, breathe in through nose...but you are right, most masks will stick when breathing in through the nose.

I don't need lenses made or anything, just need a mask that will be comfortable, fit well and not take a week to clear out in the water (small but with good visibility).

Saxatilis
April 10th, 2012, 02:57 PM
I generally try not to use snorkels whenever possible. I am a PADI divemaster so I do have a "pocket" snorkel that is out of the way when I am divemastering. The kind of diving I do most frequently (boat, quarry, and tech) does not require a snorkel. If you do become lost on the surface after a boat dive surface signaling equipment will serve you much better than any snorkel (I carry a 6ft bright orange surface marker buoy, a power whistle, and multiple lights). As far as swimming back to shore, most popular dive sites around here are 8-10+ miles from shore, good luck! Its a much better idea to flow with the current so any searchers can use that as a method to triangulate your position. Snorkels DO come in handy for the rare shore diving I do but I've never noticed a huge difference between simple one and more complexs dry ones with vents. Even if you were using a dry snorkel, you still need to learn to clear it when switching from reg to snorkel and back. Like many people I learned to snorkel years before taking up scuba diving so I know it well but I believe it to be location specific equipment.

As far as free diving, I do that without a snorkel too. I'm not a frequent freediver but don't the pros go without snorkels also? I'm perfectly happy going without a breath for 2+ min at a time so I guess its a personal choice...

Just my 2 cents, dive safe!

danvolker
April 10th, 2012, 04:16 PM
I generally try not to use snorkels whenever possible. I am a PADI divemaster so I do have a "pocket" snorkel that is out of the way when I am divemastering. The kind of diving I do most frequently (boat, quarry, and tech) does not require a snorkel. If you do become lost on the surface after a boat dive surface signaling equipment will serve you much better than any snorkel (I carry a 6ft bright orange surface marker buoy, a power whistle, and multiple lights). As far as swimming back to shore, most popular dive sites around here are 8-10+ miles from shore, good luck! Its a much better idea to flow with the current so any searchers can use that as a method to triangulate your position. Snorkels DO come in handy for the rare shore diving I do but I've never noticed a huge difference between simple one and more complexs dry ones with vents. Even if you were using a dry snorkel, you still need to learn to clear it when switching from reg to snorkel and back. Like many people I learned to snorkel years before taking up scuba diving so I know it well but I believe it to be location specific equipment.

As far as free diving, I do that without a snorkel too. I'm not a frequent freediver but don't the pros go without snorkels also? I'm perfectly happy going without a breath for 2+ min at a time so I guess its a personal choice...

Just my 2 cents, dive safe!
Even though I was "ranting", I have to agree....when I dive on charter boats off of Palm Beach, I do not have my snorkel with me...If I went out with a private boater ( not likely) I might take my snorkel with me, as the reefs are less than 2.5 miles from shore over most of Palm Beach, and there is no reef I could not swim back comfortably from.

If I shore dive, I will have a snorkel....If I dive off of Fort pierce where the reefs and wrecks are 25 miles out, I am shoving my 1 man Halcyon life Raft in my mc Storage Pouch behind my back....I also would have the snorkel tucked in to a pocket.

temet vince
April 10th, 2012, 04:54 PM
A good mask will "suction cup" to your face, so no, you won't have to tilt your head back. Unfortunately, it takes many divers a lot of mask shopping to find that perfect mask. It's sometimes a multi-year experience.
Every scuba shop you go in to, try on all of their masks. You may find that your perfect mask you already own is subpar compared to another one.

#1 thing about snorkels: Ease of breathing. All other factors are secondary. I think you will regret not getting a dry snorkel, though. With a dry snorkel, you don't have to worry about being slightly too deep and inhaling a lung full of water when your tip submerges.

nimoh
April 10th, 2012, 05:05 PM
I have to go with danvolker on this one. Get a quality freedive snorkel. Even if the primary purpose it to get scuba certified, why limit yourself?

There are a lot of reefs where it doesn't even make sense to use scuba due to being too shallow, and you could snorkel it for hours with no deco obligations.

cmburch
April 10th, 2012, 06:06 PM
Comfort and performance. The two go hand in hand.

Proper fitting gear means more enjoyment in the water. Get what is best for you for your type of diving conditions.

I tend to tilt my head forward slightly or just look straight. Ask at the shop to help you out with any additional questions. I go to a few shops and try on masks by gently pushing on my face. If it forms a slight suction, then it may fit. I then check for field of view and optical clarity. The final check for proper fit is in a swimming pool in case you have to return it. I have masks with single and multiple lens as well as with and without purge. I like single lens the best, but 2 lens may be better if the lens is closer to your eyes for lower volume and better field of view. I use SEADIVE TruVu Rayblockers. SEADIVE TruVu Rayblockers - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=SEADIVE+TruVu+Rayblockers) Great masks for long surface swims in the bright California sunshine and good optical clarity underwater for our low Vis conditions.

I use a large bore fresh air breathing semidry snorkel. Great for working out in the Pacific Ocean. I have the Aqualung Impulse 3 Aqualung Impulse 3 - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=Aqualung+Impulse+3). in both flex and rigid. Best selling snorkel on the market. California and Hawaii freedivers use whatever snorkel we like from the simple camouflage J-tubes to a humongous yellow top semidry like mine. Check DeeperBlue for suggested snorkels. SpearBoard California section also has some comments on snorkels like the Riffe Stable. http://www.spearboard.com/showthread.php?t=137950&highlight=Riffe+Stable
We can have somewhat rough and unpredictable conditions for Northern California. The Impulse 3 has a top divertor if in rough windy conditions with water washing overhead there is less of a chance of getting saltwater in the top tube then mouth. The flex mouthpiece falls away from the face when we spit the snorkel out for freediving. The rigid does not oscillate when moving through the water if swimming fast. The comfo-bite mouthpiece is good for those that tend to clench or chew on their mouthpiece for less jaw fatigue. Same mouthpiece as one of my Reg sets. There is also a lower divertor with valve to minimize saltwater in the tube from entering mouth. I also have a TUSA Platina hyperdry that works well. tusa platina hyperdry - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=tusa+platina+hyperdry)

There are essentially 3 types of snorkels: simple J-tube, semidry, and dry. A dry snorkel may interfere with breathing since it may close off too often. Most freedivers spit the snorkel out when submerging and surface with their head out of water unless we want to keep an eye on something. Then just place the snorkel back in mouth at surface with head out of water or still underwater. Children can run into problems if taught that they must keep the snorkel in their mouth and forcefully exhale to clear rather than simply raising their head out of the water. Of course in rough conditions, it may be better to keep the snorkel in your mouth at the surface.

Use whatever is the best for comfort and performance for your type of conditions. I do.

Sponsored Link

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1