How to determine spacing for the bottom clip on sidemount?

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beanojones

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How do you determine your spacing for the bottom clip?

I am pretty committed (this month) to the DiveRite Nomad Ring Bungie, because it solves some problems for me, but I have noticed that with the aluminum tanks I use the fact that the tanks are much further down by the sides, means that butt floatiness is a 'problem', which I solve by ignoring it or by moving to front clips.


And it made me wonder how people who have their tanks higher up under the arms with other systems determine their spacing. Is it simply mechanical (distance between mount points) or is there some effort to make the spacing counteract how the tank rides?

Also as a side note: SEA Cousteau first stages make standard 80 ride almost vertical from 1500 PSI down. It's kind of funny.
 
I solve the problem by diving old school configuration (or technically I have been diving sidemount long enough that my connection point has become old school). In reality the people who are responsible for American sidemounting as we know it are Woody Jasper,Wes Skiles,Ron Simmons,Tom Morris,Mark Long and Lamar Hires (before his Dive Rite days),they used a more direct connection point which prevented the tanks from floating,hence any tank configuration would keep the tanks solidly in place. I use carrabiners that are snug against the tank held in place by metal bands with a holder I designed and stamped out (cam bands work too,but they have their weaknesses which I don't like since I enter a lot of real sidemount situtations). The tank carrabiner connects to a horizontal type d-ring on my waist,and this connection keeps things from moving a lot,but allows for quick removal. So I can use anything from big steel to aluminum,and they all stay in place with no moving connection sites etc. The back plate was developed by Bill Rennaker and has served him well,but an interesting quirk to sidemount history,was how one of the developers of sidemounting left the original side connection for the back plate that wasn't developed by him. With sidemount being the next marketing boom,basically because the diving population is aging,and not as many new divers are entering,so something needs to be done to relieve people of their money,I will be curious where the next evolution of sidemount configuration will go-especially since dive equipment companies will attempt to out do the other. Who knows they original configuration may come back in vogue (heck even the old jacket BC sidemount sets ups that are far better than the wing may come back-LOL)
 
A very important thing is the position of the boltsnaps on the tank, put them at 12 o clock, instead of 3..maybe thighten the bungees,
they will pull the bottle forwards
Good luck
 
With aluminum cylinders and no weights on the cam bands, clip placement lengthwise on the cylinders will be a matter of comfort. You may actually find that the closer to the valve you place them so that the two connection points are "stretched" the cylinder may lay flatter. This is the concept I use in top mounting a stage cylinder. As for weighted cam bands or steel cylinders, lengthwise clip placement is determined by trim. If you are foot heavy the clip needs to be lower on the cylinder.
 
Recommend having a look at the setup instructions for the Armadillo. There are instructions there that give a starting point for clip placement..... this is on tanks with weight attached per the Armadillo instructions.
 
A very important thing is the position of the boltsnaps on the tank, put them at 12 o clock, instead of 3..maybe thighten the bungees,
they will pull the bottle forwards
Good luck


With the top clip being 12:00, the bottom clip goes at three? Looking fromt he top of the bottle?

---------- Post added May 1st, 2012 at 10:21 AM ----------

I get the spacing via trial and error. There's no substitute for spending a little time in shallow water to tweak things.


There are times when I wish I had a pool. Playing with anything in a pool is easy. Having to clear surf to practice teaches me stuff about security the hard way, though.

---------- Post added May 1st, 2012 at 10:28 AM ----------

I solve the problem by diving old school configuration they used a more direct connection point which prevented the tanks from floating,hence any tank configuration would keep the tanks solidly in place. I use carrabiners that are snug against the tank held in place by metal bands with a holder I designed and stamped out (cam bands work too,but they have their weaknesses which I don't like since I enter a lot of real sidemount situtations). The tank carrabiner connects to a horizontal type d-ring on my waist,and this connection keeps things from moving a lot,but allows for quick removal. So I can use anything from big steel to aluminum,and they all stay in place with no moving connection sites etc. )

If you have pictures...

Since I am intentiontionally using cam bands it seems like that could be done with narrow bands and large Beaners.

Is there a reason for Beaners versus clips?
 
Just hang naturally in the water.How is your trim? If feet down grab the tanks and pull them forwards,your head should go down. (assuming steel tanks)

If you need to adjust the position of the cambands, lie on the bottom !! :shakehead: !! unclip a tank,move the camband (to make your head go down move the band further down the tank) repeat until trim is perfect.
 
Recommend having a look at the setup instructions for the Armadillo. There are instructions there that give a starting point for clip placement..... this is on tanks with weight attached per the Armadillo instructions.

Not sure how any manufacturer can second-guess the specific requirements of a sidemount diver, irrespective of shape, size, exposure protection, cylinder type or a dozen other factors....?!?
 
DSCN4488.jpgDSCN4489.jpg

Since I am intentiontionally using cam bands it seems like that could be done with narrow bands and large Beaners.

Is there a reason for Beaners versus clips?

Carrabiners lay flat against the tank
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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