Which Aqualand?

Well, the time has come. My semi-original (1991) Citizen Aqualand's required service in order for it to remain a dive watch is now greater than $250. Even though it keeps perfect time, the jeweller insists it needs movement maintenance.

Given that I like the watch, I was willing to fund a major gasket change, however I'm not willing to spend more on the old watch when I can get a new one for less that $250 - so now it is to be devoted to being a watch in my case, never to be worn, but merely a relic

However, there is an opportunity to figure out which new watch. Requirements: must look good enough to be worn with a sports jacket. Must have analog hands for time. Must have a depth gauge as a backup to computerized systems. Ideally, must be eco-drive so I will not end up in the same cost/benefit failure as I'm in today.

I narrowed it down to two models:
Citizen Aqualand Diver Promaster BJ2040-04E BJ2040 Men's Watch (Either metal band or rubber, more than likely rubber)

Pros: less expensive, eco drive.
Cons: a bit plain

Citizen Promaster Eco Drive Aqualand Chronograph Diver's Watch BJ2110-01E BJ2110-01 BJ2110

Pros: sharp looking, eco drive
Cons: a bit more expensive, but still cheaper than three years of service on my current watch. Metric units and I'm an Imperial guy.

Thoughts? Opinions? Suggestions? Any and all are welcome.

Racer_X:

<--snip-->
I narrowed it down to two models:
Citizen Aqualand Diver Promaster BJ2040-04E BJ2040 Men's Watch (Either metal band or rubber, more than likely rubber)

Pros: less expensive, eco drive.
Cons: a bit plain

Citizen Promaster Eco Drive Aqualand Chronograph Diver's Watch BJ2110-01E BJ2110-01 BJ2110

Pros: sharp looking, eco drive
Cons: a bit more expensive, but still cheaper than three years of service on my current watch. Metric units and I'm an Imperial guy.

<--snip-->

Click to expand...

They do come "Imperial" - check out Citizen's website.

I gotta say I like the looks of the BJ2110. I have the JP1060 and I quite like it. I think the diving functions are easier to read with the digital display but in any event, I am sure you will be happy with either choice.

I really, REALLY, wanted to keep using my original Aqualand. I liked the digital depth display. It was simple, easy to use, and looked good (as well as starting conversations with the depth sensor attached to it). But when the one-time servicing cost exceeds the cost of a new watch, that's where I draw the line.

Getting a watch w/o batteries usually means giving up the digital display, unfortunately. Except for the JV series, and that doesn't pass the sports jacket test. I could always get the JP1060 and then throw it away when the batteries die and get another, but that bugs me too. Since it's a backup, the limited vis won't bother me TOO much, I hope...

I look at it this way: If I like the old one more, and the service will return it to as-new condition, then why the heck not invest in the one you like? Unless something is smashed under a rock, I, personally, feel very little reason to replace if something is doing the job as well or better than the newer alternatives.

But that's just me . . .

- Tim

I have the second option you listed and love mine. It dives well and I also use it as a dress watch on a regular basis. The blue dials looks great.

Watch Details for Promaster Depth Metre Chronograph | Citizen Eco-Drive

My eventual replacement for my ancient Suunto D3 bottom timer:
Citizen Diver Depth Meter Promaster Cyber Aqualand JV0000-01E

I have a Hyper Aqualand which is a great dive watch but was never as trick looking as the ones with analog displays, so I got the Titanium Aqualand Duplex which IMHO is the best of both worlds.

tadawson:

I look at it this way: If I like the old one more, and the service will return it to as-new condition, then why the heck not invest in the one you like? Unless something is smashed under a rock, I, personally, feel very little reason to replace if something is doing the job as well or better than the newer alternatives.

Click to expand...

Understand and agree completely. The challenge is that it isn't a one time cost that allows me to get another 20 years out of it. It's a 250.00 cost that will last me until the batteries die, then I've got another $100 or so, until the batteries die, then another $200 or so. The alternative is a watch that won't have batteries to die, so I won't need to mess with it for 10-20 years.

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Kevrumbo:

My eventual replacement for my ancient Suunto D3 bottom timer:
Citizen Diver Depth Meter Promaster Cyber Aqualand JV0000-01E

Click to expand...

For a dedicated dive watch, that looks great! I like the half circle for the depth and the digital display.

I was a great fan of Citizen, until my nearly 2 year old Aqualand 25th anniversary watch stopped working. The power unit conked out requiring a US $ 110 repair. This was blamed on a hard bump.

I use the watch for diving, so it gets bumped and scratched, as any diving watch will.

The standard for watches certified as diving watches is supposed to be pretty high for shock resistance.

I wish Casio would make a G Shock Frogman with the same features. In fact I cannot work out why they have not, as G Shocks are bulletproof.