seansrs36
Contributor
When I shoot in WA I usually set the strobes to 1/2 or so. My question is do I have to also do the same with the Conversion Circuity in the back?
Thanks,
Sean
Thanks,
Sean
Using Manual on D161 strobes
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Hollywoodivers
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That's what I did using the Ikelite 5D MK 2 with single D161 Shooting 16 35mm
Are your pics over exposed?
What issues are you having?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Are your pics over exposed?
What issues are you having?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Ikelite Staff
Contributor
Sean,
I believe the issue here is strobe positioning. Depending on your distance to subject, point the strobe straight out or even slightly away from the housing. You do not want to light any of the water between you and the subject. Also, get as close as you can to the subject and fill the frame with it before shooting. Beyond this, you will need to clean up the image in post-processing.
Shooting with manual strobe settings is ok as long as you don't overexpose the image. TTL setting with center-weighted metering works well in most shooting situations.
Also, a second strobe would eliminate any shadow problems.
Best Regards,
Brett Foster - Ikelite
PatW
Contributor
The trick with backscatter is strobe placement as Brett of Ikelite noted above. Think of the strobe as producing a cone of light. Anything in the cone will be lit up. Anything outside of the cone will be dark. Backscatter is caused by small flecks of material being lit up by your strobe. The trick is to have the subject illuminated by the cone of light from the strobe. However you do not want the strobe lighting up anything in front of the subject. That way you can avoid backscatter.
Also as Brett said having a secondary strobe will reduce shadows. You can still get them but they will usually be much less pronounced.
Also as Brett said having a secondary strobe will reduce shadows. You can still get them but they will usually be much less pronounced.
I use the 5D2 in the Ikelite Housing, with the 8" dome. Dual 160's are usually positioned BEHIND the dome, be it close to the housing or fully extended. They are also pointing away from the subject for most part, unless it's crystal clear water and I'm like 2 " away from the subject where I point it forward. I find that this really helped in terms of back-scatter.
And I'm not sure if it's an ID10T error, but when I shoot in manual mode (switches on the strobes set to Manual), and if I do not switch it on M on the circuitry (by depressing both buttons), the sync is off. The strobes will fire, but my images will be pitch black. I did not really investigate much, but the first thing I do now when I enter the water is to ensure my strobes are set to manual, and that the circuitry is too.
Hope this helps.
Alvin
And I'm not sure if it's an ID10T error, but when I shoot in manual mode (switches on the strobes set to Manual), and if I do not switch it on M on the circuitry (by depressing both buttons), the sync is off. The strobes will fire, but my images will be pitch black. I did not really investigate much, but the first thing I do now when I enter the water is to ensure my strobes are set to manual, and that the circuitry is too.
Hope this helps.
Alvin
Ikelite Staff
Contributor
Sean,
Unfortunately this comes with practice and time. You will know exactly how to position your strobe(s) for each shot based on your distance to subject.
Best Regards,
Brett Foster - Ikelite
---------- Post Merged at 11:54 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 11:16 AM ----------
Alvin,
Your strobes are firing fully on the pre-flash and have no energy left for the main flash. You can eliminate this problem by always leaving your strobes in TTL mode and using only the rear housing exposure dial to make changes.
Best Regards,
Brett Foster - Ikelite
Ahh... Thanks for clarifying, Brett. See, i knew it was an ID10T error.. =)
Thanks for your advice to leave strobes on TTL and adjusting exposure based on the rear housing buttons, but that leaves me with no room to adjust individual strobe intensity when using dual strobes... That's why i went manual all the way, both on strobes and rear dials.
Thanks for your advice to leave strobes on TTL and adjusting exposure based on the rear housing buttons, but that leaves me with no room to adjust individual strobe intensity when using dual strobes... That's why i went manual all the way, both on strobes and rear dials.
Ikelite Staff
Contributor
Alvin,
Yes, with the Canon you would switch exposure mode with the buttons as opposed to the dial. That said, you could also leave the system in TTL mode, move one strobe 6" forward and the other 6" backward. This would result in approx. one f-stop light difference from one side to the other. This too takes practice since strobe positioning is so critical to avoid backscatter.
If you want more dramatic light variance, then manual is the way to go.
Best Regards,
Brett Foster - Ikelite
Yes, with the Canon you would switch exposure mode with the buttons as opposed to the dial. That said, you could also leave the system in TTL mode, move one strobe 6" forward and the other 6" backward. This would result in approx. one f-stop light difference from one side to the other. This too takes practice since strobe positioning is so critical to avoid backscatter.
If you want more dramatic light variance, then manual is the way to go.
Best Regards,
Brett Foster - Ikelite
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