Trip report: Ahe Resort Papua, October 2012

Hello all,

Having just returned from Indonesia, I thought I'd share some up to date information about the Ahe Resort Papua I visited this October.

Most people venture there for the amazing encounters with whale sharks, and so did my wife and I. We sure did get that. There were 8 whale sharks swimming around the platform on the day of our visit, and it was every bit as good as you can read in other reports. The sharks swim very close, love to play with bubbles and surprisingly, sometimes even rub divers just for fun. Amazing.

Ahe Resort is located on a small, beautiful private island in the Harlem group of islands in West Papua, about an hour by car+boat from the town of Nabire. Currently on offer are two all-inclusive packages, either 5 or 10 days, for EUR 710 or EUR 1350 respectively. Extra night is EUR 135. One whale shark trip is offered for each 5 days stay. Flying to Nabire is quite expensive by Indonesian standards, and one should calculate another EUR 400-500 for a return trip to Jakarta (combined connections from Makassar or Ambon or Biak could be a bit cheaper)

The owner and manager, Arne, is the only person in charge of the operations.

The all-inclusive rate consists of transfers, accommodation, food, water, tea and coffee - we did get that. It also supposedly consists of 3 guided boat dives per day (excl Sundays) and unlimited dives on the house reef, but we didn't quite get what we paid for.

On the day of our arrival (around noon, Saturday) there was no dive guide present at the resort, so in result we weren't able to do any diving on that day. No one could show us around, provide equipment or tanks. The manager said that they don't really expect people to dive on the first day as they are probably tired after the trip (???). We commuted from another place in Indonesia on a 1.5hr flight and expected to dive.

Our second day was Sunday, so no boat dives this day as the locals are very religious and are not very keen about working on Sundays. Oh well. We did two guided house reef dives that day, and an unguided night dive with some other people who had just arrived at the resort.

On Monday, we were finally able to get on a boat. This was not at all easy, as apparently there was no fuel available and we lost most of the morning waiting for the departure as the crew went by boat to a nearby village to buy fuel (why couldn't they do it before? We’ve seen them go to the village at least five times the previous day, burning more fuel then possibly needed for our dive trips). Second boat dive was in the afternoon and that was it, no third boat dive even though we had asked for it.

Our trip to the whale sharks was at risk, once again because of fuel problems (and later in the morning, weather problems), but it finally worked out fine and we went on Tuesday. This was an amazing morning. We returned for lunch, and that was it. No boat or guided dives in the afternoon. We did one more unguided dive in the evening but we had to abort it due to a very dangerous tidal current (of which no one warned us).

We talked with the manager to organize 3 boat dives for the following day, Wednesday. All was agreed, but didn't quite work out as planned.
Out of two planned morning dives we did only one, and then another one in the early afternoon. The problem this time was compressor capacity, which was unable to fill up the required amount of tanks in time. For some reason it was once again impossible to predict by the crew or the manager the evening before, when we planned the dives.

On Thursday, we departed for Nabire where we had booked one night at the hotel, so that we could dive at the resort on our last day there (usually people leave directly on the next day, so cannot dive on their last day, but we wanted to get as much of our money's worth as possible).

The diving in the area was very average. The reefs seem healthy, but look rather deserted. We saw no big fish at all and even the averaged sized one were a rare sight. The best diving we had was on the house reef, with lots of interesting creatures hiding all around and under the jetty. We’ve also seen a huge school of dolphins (easily over a 100), when returning from one of the dives. A beautiful sight. They were very shy and went away when we jumped in to snorkel with them.

Overall, organization was really pretty bad and there was absolutely no fixed schedule for diving, no briefings etc.

One of the reports I've read said that bungalows were cleaned daily. Ours was cleaned only once in five days. Boiled water was not always provided.

Otherwise the bungalows were nice. I'd say very nice for a place as remote as Papua. Spacious and well built. Food was very tasty and plentiful.

We have been told that the crew is learning English, but most of them cannot even count from 1 to 10. I guess it might take quite some time for them to learn more complicated things. Best to bring a dictionary.

There are no carbonated drinks available at the resort, so Arne told us to stock up in Nabire and store them in the fridge at the resort. Imagine my surprise when I went to grab a beer and noticed all my drinks went missing. Apparently “this happens” according to Arne - at least he refunded my money. This could explain why drinks are no longer on stock at the resort.

Why all this problems, one might ask? The owner, Arne, is pretty much never there. He leaves for Nabire early in the morning and returns at night. I got an impression he has lost his heart and patience for the resort. There is no one at the island to look after things, and keep an eye on the operations. This affects things both on the surface and under water.

Last but not least, we have been told that there is an ongoing dispute about land ownership with the villagers, and an overall conflict about money. Two of the turtles living on the Ahe House reef have been recently hunted down and eaten by the villagers as a sign of hostility towards the resort. I think this situation affects the overall morale of the staff, which all come from the nearby village. It’s hard to say how things will develop.

We exchanged our thoughts with a group of people who stayed at the resort for 10 days just before us, and their comments were very similar. They’ve hardly ever seen the manager and could only do 2 boat dives per day. They also got only one trip to see the Whale Sharks, even though they stayed for 10 days (so according to my knowledge, should get two).

I’m aware that this is probably the most negative report about this resort to date, but I feel it’s important to share this kind of information. The place is going downhill. Perhaps we were unlucky and arrived at a bad moment, and I really hope this is the case. The place is beautiful and has potential, but definitely needs more care and attention from the management.

For me, it’s hard to justify the overall expense. The Whale sharks were amazing and were a definite highlight of our trip, but the diving in nearby Raja Ampat was waaaay better, and at half the price.

Thanks for this very balanced report. You included the good and bad and you managed to keep your emotions in check even though I'm sure you were pretty frustrated at times. Seems like a live aboard is the best, although very expensive, way to do this area.
Talking about costs, you mentioned at the end that "the diving in nearby Raja Ampat was waaaay better, and at half the price" where did you stay that the diving was half the price??? All the resorts I've seen online are pretty pricey.

AlMitch:

Thanks for this very balanced report. You included the good and bad and you managed to keep your emotions in check even though I'm sure you were pretty frustrated at times. Seems like a live aboard is the best, although very expensive, way to do this area.
Talking about costs, you mentioned at the end that "the diving in nearby Raja Ampat was waaaay better, and at half the price" where did you stay that the diving was half the price??? All the resorts I've seen online are pretty pricey.

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To tell you the truth, If I put together all the expenses of traveling to Nabire, staying at Ahe, then flying to Sorong and diving Raja Ampat, the Liveaboard pricing does not seem so extreme, considering you are pretty much guaranteed to do 3 or 4 dives a day.

Raja Ampat diving can be done on a budget and pretty much deserves a separate trip report which I'll post shortly. One does not have to stay at the expensive resorts to dive Raja Ampat.

We stayed at a Homestay on Kri Island for ~25 US$ per person per day including 3 meals+snacks and dived at a rate of ~45 US$ per dive including equipment rental. Discounts are negotiable. Sure, the organization of all this was "Indonesian" - with no schedule and also only 2 dives per day - but you pay per dive, not a package, so there is no reason for frustration. All you need is time. It was all very relaxing, friendly and some of the best diving we've ever done.

It is sad to hear that... I think the manager has to go to the town to get network access...

@glina

It is sad to hear that you experienced a lot of negative experiences on your trip at Ahe Island

Yes for the last 2 months there have been lots of problems Ahe Island has had to face locally and in the area in general including the Whalesharks and has effected so many things including staff and the running of the Island and Arne who manages things has had to go to mainland most days to meet various authorities and conservation groups,taking up so much time to solve the many problems which have occurred and on the Island there is no internet access or good signal for phone access,which makes things even more difficult .

As you are aware Ahe Island is a conservation project involving the locals and help protecting the reefs and marine life in the area including the welfare of the whalesharks and all profits go back into the local communities and helping the resort grow with things which are needed and things needed or improved for divers.The logistic's are very hard due to remoteness of this beautiful Island and everyone works hard to make things work.

Usually guests don't do boat dives on arrival due to time of arrival and journey and generally dive the house reef and checkout their dive equipment etc.But boat dives in the afternoon can still be done if guests would like. Sunday morning the locals go to church,But you can do boat dives in afternoon (dive house reef in morning).In normal conditions this would of been the case for you.If you stayed 5 days,you will do 1 whaleshark trip and10 days you will do 2 whaleshark trips 100%. It is very rare this does not happen ex: weather conditions and refund would be given in this rare example and for a fee option for extra trips can be done.

Shame you did arrive at very difficult moments and did not experience everything good about Ahe and best dive sites in the area and it has been a very difficult period for everyone on the Island and if it is any consolation to you most of the problems have been solved and also a lot of good news for Ahe Island and more support from Local authorities and conservation groups in the way forward and protection of reefs and most importantly the welfare of the Whalesharks.This year with more and more bagans (platforms) in the marine park there has been many incidents of Whalesharks being injured for one reason or other and to me does it really make sense to also have so many Bagans in a MARINE PARK with huge nets collecting huge amount of fish on a daily basis.

At least with your stay.You was in the right place at the right time and experienced 8 whalesharks on your dive,that is truly wonderful

@The World In My Eyes

I'm well aware it's a conservation project, but at the same time it's a resort and you cannot just say "It's difficult" as an excuse whenever something goes wrong.

When booking an "All-inclusive package" I paid for a clearly defined set of services, which among other things included three boat dives per day. It's a contract. Would it be OK if I arrived and decided to pay 60% of the agreed amount, because of a particularly difficult moment in my finances?

When we arrived, we couldn't prepare our equipment or do a house reef dive, as there was nobody at the dive shop to help us out. That's an organizational problem which could have been easily avoided.

But boat dives in the afternoon can still be done if guests would like. Sunday morning the locals go to church,But you can do boat dives in afternoon (dive house reef in morning)

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Sorry, but this is not true.

We wanted, but couldn't. Also on Sunday afternoon nobody would take us on an afternoon boat dive even though we had agreed for this. We talked with the manager in the morning and he said we could do a boat dive, but once he left for Nabire, it was no longer possible.

Things would continue to (not) work like this throughout out stay. On two separate days we agreed for 3 boat dives, but got 2 and no more.

During our 5 nights stay, we got a total of 4 boat dives, 2 guided house reef dives and 1 whale shark trip. On top of that 3 unguided house reef dives as a part of the "unlimited diving".

I'm not saying it was all bad, but I'm disappointed to have traveled all this way for such a limited amount of diving. I can understand that Arne runs his business from Nabire and needs internet access, but things are not running all that well without his presence at the resort.

@glina

For sure i understand what you say and your disappointment and like i mentioned shame your stay was when there was huge problems in the area and in normal circumstances the manager would of been more present and other leading staff and yes as you rightly say these organizational problems would of been avoided and your disapointment.

Hey ! with 8 Whalesharks,were the big boys there 9m/10m ones

I was there in 2011 and my experience was very very similar to the OP. Right down to Arne the manager leaving in the morning and returning late at night. Since then I have read a couple of better reviews. But it is a pity to see things have gone back to a sorry state of affairs. In my opinion, the problem is right at the top. There is no reason a "conservation" type dive operation cannot be run professionally.

The World In My Eyes:

...As you are aware Ahe Island is a conservation project involving the locals and help protecting the reefs and marine life in the area including the welfare of the whalesharks and all profits go back into the local communities...

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World In My Eyes: Ahe is not run in a professional manner. (I know you have read my review from 2011) Do you know specifically that they do make a profit and that profit is directed as you write? I don't know this to be true one way or the other, but do you have specific knowledge? I am not casting aspersions, nor am I being mean spirited. I'm just asking if you know, or if you are reading from their promotional material?

....if it is any consolation to you most of the problems have been solved and also a lot of good news for Ahe Island and more support from Local authorities and conservation groups in the way forward and protection of reefs and most importantly the welfare of the Whalesharks.This year with more and more bagans (platforms) in the marine park there has been many incidents of Whalesharks being injured for one reason or other and to me does it really make sense to also have so many Bagans in a MARINE PARK with huge nets collecting huge amount of fish on a daily basis.

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Again, do you know that most of the problems have been solved? From this post, it looks like Arne is still struggling. When he started, he had help from some organizations, then they dropped out, then later I heard he was getting help again, now it looks like he still has problems. And they are the same problems from 2 years ago.

Such a pity.

In answer to your 1st question.yes any profit does go back into the local community as mentioned and to improve things which are needed on the island.Due to the remoteness of the island the logistics are very hard and expensive and if things break or need replaced..motors etc.this can cause a lot of financial problems .There are lots of things which are needed and need maintained.

In answer to 2nd question as you know this a project involving the local community running the island and preserving the local reefs and marine life and most importantly the whale sharks and from the beginning has had support from various organisations on voluntary basis and help with funding to help get this project on its way.No one has dropped out and other voluntary help and input has been given along the way including myself. over last 15 months and I am in regular contact with Arne and at times on a daily basis following developments.As a conservationist to me what is happening in this area is very important and the project at Ahe is very unique and one of a kind and the protection of the reefs in this beautiful area and more than anything protection for the Whalesharks.I have spent two long periods in the area involving helping Ahe in many area's needed also in other area's monitoring the whalesharks and their behaviour with divers,discussions with fisherman and marine park rangers and other groups etc.and exploring many new dive site's in the area and some excellent discoveries.i have found and in time working with other villages these area's nearby can be dived also and as well as others this is voluntary and my time and expense for the cause and the ecosystem and in all my experience in Indonesia,this area is most remote and difficult area to work in.

Ahe has achieved many good things in the area,with the local communities(villages) and especially with their involvement with protection of the Whalesharks and it has needed co-operation locally and from local authorities and their support and that has not really been happening,conservation Indonesia and WWF like Ahe and what is has acheived.But it needs all groups working together in the same direction and in Indonesian this can be difficult as most know.

The good news now is the local government,conservation Indonesia and WWF all working together with Ahe and to help and how to run Ahe in the future.and all the conservation activities and protection of reefs and ecosystems and welfare of the whalesharks and that this must involve the local community in this area without them involved things will not be successful and help with education,professionalism as well as help with the Islands needs.

It is realised by local government that Ahe Island is hotspot for the future in Cenderawasih bay,other attempts to build a Resort in the area have failed.only Arne understands why and know how things work with the locals and how really hard things are in this remote area and it can be a impossible mission.But his visions in helping the local community's and the protection of the reefs and marine life in the area and despite all the difficulties has succeeded and now with the other parties involved a bigger step can be made.

Ahe Island is a beautiful island in a remote chain of other wonderful islands and rustic and natural is basic but comfortable and has all general needs and only a maximum of 10 guests at any time to keep it unspoiled.The locals who in over 2 years have gone from fisherman to being involved in running a island for divers and seeing foreigners for the 1st time and understanding our ways and expectations and becoming divers and caring about reefs and marine life..Only locals are involved and its not possible to say bring experience Indonesian resort staff etc.. from other area's and speak perfect english.Rome was not built in a day

I have spoke to many guests and their thoughts and how much they have enjoyed their stay on the Island and their wonderful experience with whalesharks ( 96% sighting ) and beautiful surrounding and what is trying to be achieved with this project and with the local community and things are not always going to go to plan within reason and there has been some negative guests also.But they still enjoyed their time there.


That's not making any excuse for any difficult moments of last 2 months and how at times such as in glina's case there was problems personally experienced.But i am sure there was still plenty glina also enjoyed.It is not possible for Arne to be at the resort all day every day,especially when he has to go to mainland for Internet access and meetings to achieve progression of this project or solve problems,let alone with all the recent problems and constantly having to spend most of time on mainland trying to solve things.Arne is always very open in discussions with guests and most guests understand the general circumstances at the resort and of course at times he excepts the criticism which may surface and uses all this information from guests in a positive way to help solve those problems and that will take time.money,help from the government and other organisations who like to be involved within the project which Ahe Island is.

For example funding for phone and Internet access to be installed on the Island would be great and solve many things and make life much more easy for Arne.But this would cost a lot of money,maybe that could happen now

I personally think the price to stay there are too reasonable and on a 5 night package,not a lot of profit is made due to high costs in the area,especially if there is agent fee's and that there should be transfer charges(it is quite expensive transferring guests and time involved) All other resorts I know charge.Also on a 5 night stay it is not calculated that divers are doing boat dives on 1st day even if you can usually do a afternoon boat dive and not calculated boat dives on last day due to morning flight times on departure (no diving 24 hrs before flight) but you can usually get one boat dive in the morning as some flights leave later in the morning and at what cost would you place on the truly wonderful experience at the only place in the world where it is possible to dive with whalesharks and not have one but many around you for most of your dive,priceless.Also I think guests should stay minimum 7 days.fIve days is too rush,rush in my mind for staff and guests wanting to get everything in and with weather conditions with the crossing to the whalesharks sometimes is not good and 5 nights is really 3 possible days to go and most guests don't like to go the day after arriving as they are tired from a possible long haul flight,so that only leaves 2 days really and then there is others guests and only 6 divers allowed on each trip and only one dive trip with the whalesharks allowed per day and to be honest minimum 7 days in my mind.


Its not a 5 star resort and never will be and its not a resort for everyone.But for many it will be and that we have to have a understanding that its a project and its come a long way and for those who expect to stay on the Island running very professional,my advice would be wait another year or longer.

Arne does not receive a salary.He just live's for free on a truly beautiful island with a vision of helping the local community and protecting coral reefs,marine life and protection of the numerous whalesharks in this area and their breath taking inter-action with mankind like no where else in the world and with divers going there,they are also helping in that vision protection of the ecosystem in the area

Hope that helps a little and brings your own conclusions and that's enough from me on this subject.

I stayed at Ahe for nine nights in august 2011. I did love it, but my experience was similar. It was impossible to do three dives a day. They would tell you you were to dive at nine in the morning but nobody was there at the dive center, Arne usually was at Nabire, and the dive guide from Sulawesi that should have organized the diving was not able to convince the Papuan crew to maintain a schedule. Sometimes I was quite angry because you never knew if and when you would be able to go diving. Saturday afternoon they told us we would dive on Sunday morning at 9 am. On sunday all the divers were ready to go diving but no boat or dive guides were there. Finally short before lunch they arrived and asked if we wanted to go diving. They didn't have the courage to tell us they would go to church on Sunday morning and so there would be no diving.
The island is beautiful, the whale sharks are fantastic, the diving is nice (but very little fish, nice coral), no other divers than the ones staying at Ahe, the accomodation and food is simple but there is everything you need.
We visited the whale sharks twice. They let us dive with the whale sharks for 70 minutes, maximum 5 or 6 divers, asking us not to touch them or desturb them in any way and I think that this is very important. It was incredible. Sometimes when I watch videos or read trip reports from liveaboards it doesn't seem they have the same respect for the whale sharks.
We then flew to Biak where we visited the Padaido islands. We wanted to go diving but we decided to snorkel only since everything was even more comlicated and expensive.
I have visited other places in Papua. Things don't work there as we are used to in Europe or USA. At the end of my trip and now that I'm at home waiting for winter to come, I think that I would love to be at Ahe diving with the whale sharks, watching sunsets and doing "mediocre" dives. Arne is having a very hard time making things work for european or american divers in a place that just does not work like we are used to. The only thing I would recommend is that they should not promise 3 dives a day because we are quite intollerant when we are disappointed of what we get for our hard earned money. I repeat I would love to be at Ahe diving with whale sharks. This is only my personal opinion.