We just came back from a cruise on the Dewi Nusantara the trip report specific to the boat is here
This post is really more about the diving conditions, the fish life and the weather and transport.
Getting There and Back
Starting with transport we flew from Jakarta to Sorong with Sriwijaya Air in executive class (business) this is more expensive but allows for 30 KG luggage and also gives you access to lounges at airports (except Sorong) not only you are taken to the plan with a private car and allowed into the aircraft at the very end of the boarding. Business class seats are larger and comfortable and you are served food and beer if you like it. No issues at all with punctuality and luggage all was perfect and we would recommend this airline without reservation especially as you can buy tickets on line.
Makassair airport is actually quite nice and better than Jakarta domestic, we allowed at least 3 hours between each connection but with surprise in one occasion the luggage arrived before us on the earlier connection we did not want to risk.
Weather
We were on a liveaboard and boats cruise this area only November to May as after there are some rough seas in the South in fact Misool resort closes. In any case in Raja Ampat it rains every time of the year according to the crew. During our cruise we have torrential rain in few occasions when we were in the North and good weather in the South. During May-October the resorts on Kri stay open maybe the weather though windy allows for less rain? In essence if you are thinking of getting a tan on a liveaboard in Raja Ampat there is a chance you won't succeed.
Diving conditions
In the north the visibility was fair to good with sometimes strong currents. Those are very much needed and bring a lot of nutrients that in turn brings fish and mantas, however sometime it gets so murky that you don't actually see the fish. We had occasions where trying to go and check a shark or turtle after swimming few meters in the blue we could not see a thing. In the south visibility was better still occasional currents but all in all better conditions. A reef hook is recommended as well as SMB and a flag in case you happen to shoot off at the safety stop.
Marine Life
First the bad news all the sharks were finned out many years ago, now the good news they are coming back and the rest of the animals are all there. Mantas, Wobbegong sharks, Eupalette Sharks, all varieties of Pygmy Seahorse and some other weird critters like mimic and wonderpus, all types of ghost pipefish, turtles, barracuda and also mackarel, tuna and so on. Some dives have A LOT of fish though you can see it all and the fish swarming produces a characteristic boom sound that is really unique.
Other Observations
Except few areas there is no mobile phone reception, no recompression chamber, no good hospital in Sorong except if you have malaria. So really out of this world. Wonderful scenery all in all.
Summary
Raja Ampat is a long way away but it is all worth it, with the extension of the no catch zone in Misool this will get more and more interesting going forward even for sharks and critters that are right now in low numbers.
To finish off some reference
Our pictures from the trip Raja Ampat - a set on Flickr
Our videos
North Raja Ampat
[youtubehq]DuCMkUyYiDE[/youtubehq]
Misool
[youtubehq]2p6g12dxIBU[/youtubehq]
Muck Diving in Batanta
[youtubehq]nwmEg9yY874[/youtubehq]
Night Diving
[youtubehq]HN6t4c7JfDU[/youtubehq]
This post is really more about the diving conditions, the fish life and the weather and transport.
Getting There and Back
Starting with transport we flew from Jakarta to Sorong with Sriwijaya Air in executive class (business) this is more expensive but allows for 30 KG luggage and also gives you access to lounges at airports (except Sorong) not only you are taken to the plan with a private car and allowed into the aircraft at the very end of the boarding. Business class seats are larger and comfortable and you are served food and beer if you like it. No issues at all with punctuality and luggage all was perfect and we would recommend this airline without reservation especially as you can buy tickets on line.
Makassair airport is actually quite nice and better than Jakarta domestic, we allowed at least 3 hours between each connection but with surprise in one occasion the luggage arrived before us on the earlier connection we did not want to risk.
Weather
We were on a liveaboard and boats cruise this area only November to May as after there are some rough seas in the South in fact Misool resort closes. In any case in Raja Ampat it rains every time of the year according to the crew. During our cruise we have torrential rain in few occasions when we were in the North and good weather in the South. During May-October the resorts on Kri stay open maybe the weather though windy allows for less rain? In essence if you are thinking of getting a tan on a liveaboard in Raja Ampat there is a chance you won't succeed.
Diving conditions
In the north the visibility was fair to good with sometimes strong currents. Those are very much needed and bring a lot of nutrients that in turn brings fish and mantas, however sometime it gets so murky that you don't actually see the fish. We had occasions where trying to go and check a shark or turtle after swimming few meters in the blue we could not see a thing. In the south visibility was better still occasional currents but all in all better conditions. A reef hook is recommended as well as SMB and a flag in case you happen to shoot off at the safety stop.
Marine Life
First the bad news all the sharks were finned out many years ago, now the good news they are coming back and the rest of the animals are all there. Mantas, Wobbegong sharks, Eupalette Sharks, all varieties of Pygmy Seahorse and some other weird critters like mimic and wonderpus, all types of ghost pipefish, turtles, barracuda and also mackarel, tuna and so on. Some dives have A LOT of fish though you can see it all and the fish swarming produces a characteristic boom sound that is really unique.
Other Observations
Except few areas there is no mobile phone reception, no recompression chamber, no good hospital in Sorong except if you have malaria. So really out of this world. Wonderful scenery all in all.
Summary
Raja Ampat is a long way away but it is all worth it, with the extension of the no catch zone in Misool this will get more and more interesting going forward even for sharks and critters that are right now in low numbers.
To finish off some reference
Our pictures from the trip Raja Ampat - a set on Flickr
Our videos
North Raja Ampat
[youtubehq]DuCMkUyYiDE[/youtubehq]
Misool
[youtubehq]2p6g12dxIBU[/youtubehq]
Muck Diving in Batanta
[youtubehq]nwmEg9yY874[/youtubehq]
Night Diving
[youtubehq]HN6t4c7JfDU[/youtubehq]
