Comparison of my SM Courses: Florida vs. Mexico

I just finished my IANTD cave course last week in Playa del Carmen, Mexico with Nando (Fernando Del Valle Prieto) through Protec Playa. Previously, I took the PSAI Overhead Sidemount course in Marianna, FL with Edd Sorrenson. Both instructors are extremely talented and I learned a ton in both courses. Obviously, everyone has his or her own particular preferences (especially with regards to sidemount) but I wanted to share a few comparison points based on what I learned:


As you can see from the chart above, almost every single aspect of the sidemount gear configuration was the opposite of each other. However, based on what I learned, I preferred the configuration I used in Mexico for the following reasons:

• Rig: I’m a pretty tiny girl measuring a whopping 5 feet so I found the Hollis SMS100 (even with the modifications) way too big for me (the harness ended close to the back of my knees – and this was also the case for my friend who is 5’7&#8221. However, I know a bunch of 6’+ guys that dive the Stealth too.
• Tanks: With all my gear on sans tanks and extra ballast, I’m slightly negative even when wearing enough thermal protection for Northeast cold water diving so I prefer to dive with AL80s versus steel tanks (otherwise I sink like a rock). However, I must admit that it took me a heck of lot longer to figure out how to trim out AL80s. Almost all of my problems though can be attributed to the fact that I didn’t have proper training for AL80s so I was squared away on the very first day of my cave course. Additionally, this is beyond my level of training, but when I eventually get to advanced sidemount and need to superman tanks (1 of both), I can’t imagine being able to do this with steel tanks without it horribly screwing up your trim and buoyancy. Also, for diving while traveling, I found AL80s to be a lot more available (especially outside the US) so it was really easy for me to sidemount a single or two AL80s when on vacation.
• Ballast: Also, with the Stealth, I found that I do not need trim weights on the top straps of my harness since the wing isn’t modeled after wings for backmount (meaning that the wing doesn’t go all the way to the shoulders which I’m assuming was originally designed to compensate for manifolded valves).
• Valves: I’m pretty neutral on this but when I get more training, I think I would prefer to have the valves inside my armpit so that it doesn’t get damaged when going through restrictions (although it will be awhile before this really becomes an issue to be honest).
• Guages: I found gauges pointed up near my face to be much, much easier to read but I actually have gotten line caught on it before on wrecks even when they are laying flat against my drysuit so I’m going to stick with the gauges resting on the top of the tank. However, I may change my mind on this with more practice in high flow caves, especially in Florida where you may need both hands to pull and glide.
• Stowing hoses after S-drills: I found it much easier to unbungee and clean up the tanks while holding the 1^st stage rather than swinging the bottle out in front or trying to tidy the hose while completely connected to the rig.

All in all, I would recommend anyone who wants to learn more about sidemount to try the different options to see what works for them but I really want to stress the importance of proper training versus trying to hack together information from forums and Youtube videos. (Sorry, I love SB, CDF, and such but it’s true!) I say this from personal experience because I spent months (seriously, months in 50-60 degree water) trying to figure out my tank trim, bungee lengths, equipment configuration, etc. and I basically had all my gear re-configured the right way in a day with Nando. Both of these courses were a wonderful experience and I highly recommend them! I also cross-listed some of this information along with a video of my course on CDF as well which covers more of the cave training aspect. I hope this is helpful to fellow newbs like me!

Thanks for your write up, interesting stuff.

Everyone I see diving sidemount does it differerently.
There does not have to be a right and a wrong way to do things. Ever refining how you do it is one of the charms of sidemount to me.
Of course, you'll still find some ayatollahs around that will tell you otherwise in the following posts.

While, I agree that there is no "one-size-fits-all" approach in terms of equipment configuration for sidemount, I believe that there are definitely bad (or, at least, less ideal) techniques in sidemount. I, myself, am guilty of having super floaty tanks and messy routing when I first started with AL80s (steel tanks seem to be less of an issue because they just stay negative). Issues such as bad tank trim and bad diver trim are less of a problem in open water obviously but I have definitely seen and talked to more sidemount divers in the recent months who are either unaware or do not care about these issues since they have no interest using sidemount as a tool for overhead environments (or they eventually would like to continue training in overhead environments but weren't taught that these issues are critically important, especially in restrictions). I'm still in the process of learning, of course, and tightening down my configuration (such as my very slight A-frame with my tanks) but I think that there needs to be increased awareness of what the proper form of sidemount diving should look like in light of the increase in popularity. Despite the variety in equipment configuration, the best sidemount divers I know don't even look like that they have 2 tanks even on them when looking at them head on.

I have a possible solution to your A-framing issue. I had that issue as well and didn't realize how bad it was until I saw a video someone shot of me from above. If the bungees around your valves aren't long enough they will pull the valves in towards your body causing the rear of the tanks to A-frame. I put an extra link on my bungees and it solved the problem. Now the tanks lie as they should

Some steel tanks are also floaty. When I first started diving SM in Puget Sound I was using Faber LP95's ... because that's what I had been using in Florida for my initial training. But the difference in environment ... salt water vs fresh ... and gas management ... OW doesn't require a "rule of thirds" approach ... resulted in some very floaty tanks by the end of the dive. I experimented with different cylinders and settled on XS Scuba HP100's, because they did not give me that same problem.

Likewise, when I started diving caves in MX I had to do some experimentation in order to get those oversize beer cans they use down there to not float up on me as I breathed them down. It took a few dives to get them just where I wanted them ... and I had to fiddle with not just weight placement but also where to set the bands and how to run the leashes ... but I eventually got it figured out.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

Excellent summary. Thanks for taking the trouble to write it out and post it. Really helpful to those of us who teach it and perhaps get a bit complacent about our methodology at times.

All the best and dive safe and often.

Thanks Tracy! Ah, I have the extra link but I'll try loosening the bungees just a tad bit.

LOL oversized beer cans! I haven't tried SM'ing LP95s but I've tried the XS HP100s and a few others in OW but I definitely had some trouble diving with steel tanks on my Stealth rig because it was hard to reach the dump valve when fully inflated like a turtle shell. I found it much easier to dive with steel tanks on the modified SMS100 since it's 14 more lbs of extra ballast and ~3-4 lbs of more air. However, I know many people that don't need as much lift from their Stealth rig with steel tanks because of their ballast requirements.

Thanks!

By the way... Give the SMS75 a shot if you want a little less bulk than the 100 and more lift than the 50.

In any event... all the best. And thanks again.